ABS temperature setting

[RogK 0]

I have a Reality ender -3. I'm using Cura to slice my Gcode. I've successfully printed a little boat in PLA but want to print mainly in ABS.

I've purchased a reel of ABS+ and sliced a model of a brick wall profile to face some model buildings. So nice and flat. I thought that should be easy to print.

My printer preheats the bed to 70 degrees C for ABS and Cura sets it at 80 degrees C. Yet I read and see on U Tube that it should be 110.

I've added Kapton tape, Glue stick and built an encasement but the model becomes unstuck after a few layers.

Can anyone explain why there is such a difference in recommended temperatures and how I can overcome the problem? – There appears not be a way to set temperatures in Cura. Can I choose a different material?

[GregValiant 1,317]

I can't get my Ender up to 110, but it will hit 109.  I don't print a lot of ABS (serious fumes) but when I do I put a plastic garbage bag over the printer.  ABS is extremely prone to warping, splitting at layer lines, and pulling off the bed, if it cools the least bit unevenly.  I don't like having the motors in such a hot environment either.  Most folks build enclosures, but the fumes are still an issue.

You can change the ABS setting in the printer firmware by putting these two lines in a text file and saving it as a *.gcode and printing the file.

M145 S1 H245 B109 F0

M500

The "S1" indicates the second material (usually ABS) "H" is hot end temp, "B" for bed temp, and "F" for fan (in PWM so 0 - 255).  M500 saves the settings.

 

You cannot change the names of the materials as they are hard coded in the printer.

[RogK 0]

Thanks Greg.

I've just read an article on All3DP about this problem. I have the Ender 3 V2 which can only heat the plate to 90 Degrees. There are some modifications possible but as I'm just starting out, I think it best to get to know the machine and the process better before undertaking such tasks.

So I guess I'll stick to PLA for now.

Thanks again for your time.

[GregValiant 1,317]

After PLA PETG is a good choice.  It isn't as brittle and doesn't cold flow as much.  Print temp is around 245 and the bed at 80 so it would work for your printer.  It does tend to warp more than PLA, but a lot less than ABS.  Long skinny parts are an issue.  Brims help.  If I have a long skinny feature I know is going to lift I add "elephant ears" to the part to give it more surface area on the build plate.  It's placing 25mm diameter x 1mm tall discs that contact the part.