Good glue water proof

[RogueWave 15]

Making a water proof container hope able to be crush proof down to 100 m depth in the ocean. Parts will be modular printed on my S5 

looking to match up glue with the needed material (filament) or should it be the other way around????

Any idea are welcomed !!!!!!!

Thanks

 

[geert_2 558]

If I had to make such a thing, I would print a mould in PLA, or in a dedicated mould-making filament. And then cast a hard and pressure-resistant material in it, some sort of sand- or metal-filled epoxy or so? Be sure to use huge amounts of release-spray, or it will glue like hell to the mould.

 

Or 3D-print an original model in PLA, make a silicone mould around it, and then a stiffer harness. And cast the epoxy in the silicone mould. Saturate the mould with silicon oil prior to casting, to extend its life.

 

In this way, you can make the mould from multiple pieces, glued together. But the cast is a one-piece, without seams and glue. So you have the good things of both 3D-printing (self-made custom models) and casting (strong, single piece, no weak points due to cavities, layer-lines, seams, glue,...).

 

Of course, all traditional mould-making tips and tricks apply: no undercuts (unless you cast very flexible rubbers), select "natural" seam lines in the model, make sure it can be filled, predict the flow of the casting material, no dead ends where the material can not get into, provide pouring and venting holes, alignment-keys, clamping features to keep both mould-halves together, provide indents where you can insert a compressed-air pistol and screw-drivers to pry apart the moulds after casting, etc...

 

A silicone mould can handle heat up to 200°C usually. A PLA mould not... So use low-exotherm, slow curing epoxies in that case.

[RogueWave 15]

On 5/12/2021 at 9:59 AM, geert_2 said:

If I had to make such a thing, I would print a mould in PLA, or in a dedicated mould-making filament. And then cast a hard and pressure-resistant material in it, some sort of sand- or metal-filled epoxy or so? Be sure to use huge amounts of release-spray, or it will glue like hell to the mould.

 

Or 3D-print an original model in PLA, make a silicone mould around it, and then a stiffer harness. And cast the epoxy in the silicone mould. Saturate the mould with silicon oil prior to casting, to extend its life.

 

In this way, you can make the mould from multiple pieces, glued together. But the cast is a one-piece, without seams and glue. So you have the good things of both 3D-printing (self-made custom models) and casting (strong, single piece, no weak points due to cavities, layer-lines, seams, glue,...).

 

Of course, all traditional mould-making tips and tricks apply: no undercuts (unless you cast very flexible rubbers), select "natural" seam lines in the model, make sure it can be filled, predict the flow of the casting material, no dead ends where the material can not get into, provide pouring and venting holes, alignment-keys, clamping features to keep both mould-halves together, provide indents where you can insert a compressed-air pistol and screw-drivers to pry apart the moulds after casting, etc...

 

A silicone mould can handle heat up to 200°C usually. A PLA mould not... So use low-exotherm, slow curing epoxies in that case.

 

[RogueWave 15]

1) I made molds and poured metal before know the methods

 

2) S5 I think has enough build area to make the part      (computer, battery, sensors etc )

 

3) so what material to use?   Carbon Fiber ?????

     need to know that     or maybe have S5 make a part (empty inside) drop it down in 50 meter depth and see the results?????  then try a 100 meters?