I just took a look at the portable ladder in my lab: it is both riveted and welded. This makes it feel rock solid. If only riveted, each connection could still pivot a bit, causing a wobbly feeling. If only welded, the welds could be superficially glued instead of really melted together. I can't weld myself, but I heard from a professional welder that welding aluminum is difficult due to the very high temperatures required to melt the oxide layer. If not high enough, the connection may slightly stick, but is not welded and will separate under load.
If yours will be mounted to a wall, pivoting will not be a problem. But if portable, make sure you provide multiple connections per step.
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geert_2 558
Technically, it will probably work well if you design the parts thick and massive enough, if load is distributed well (=no stress points, correct orientation of layers), and if you print them correctly (temp, fill, flow), and regularly test for degradation and replace them.
But personally, I would not really trust it. I wouldn't trust any plastic parts for such purposes. I have seen too many plastic things crumbling apart or breaking after a couple of years: dustbins, bottles, gardening tools, plastic toys, food boxes, garden tables and chairs, car bumpers, all sorts of composite casts,... And these were injection moulded parts, or cast parts, so they even didn't have the 3D-printing problems like layer-adhesion, stress-inducing entrapped air, uneven cooling stresses, etc.
The biggest risk will probably UV-light degradation, plus to a lesser degree ozone, chlorine (if in contact with tap water or swimming pools), hydrolysis, drying-out (evaporation of plasticizers), fatigue,...
I am not sure, but I do believe that here in Belgium weight-carrying plastic connections on ladders and stairs are even forbidden. At least, they are forbidden in our university: all connections have to be welded or rivetted.
Without photos or drawings it is difficult to give advice, but what about using rivets? Or nuts and self-locking bolts? Maybe with use of copper-grease to prevent corrosion?
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JohnInOttawa 104
Thanks @geert_2. Your response makes perfect sense to me. My default is metal for the same reasons as you cite. I just thought, maybe I am being old fashioned. But given the consequences of a step giving way, I think maybe old fashion is best.
I will look at rivet options. The nuts and bolts would probably be strong enough, but I am trying to have one flush surface and would rather not have to thicken the metal for a countersink or counterbore.
Much appreciated!
John
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