ultimaker 2 extend change heater and temp sensor

[dt_xiaoyi 0]

My board is Ultiboard v2.0, single nozzle. The temp sensor1 interface seems to be broken. Now I want to connect the TP100 to the temp sensor2 , heating wire to the heater2,  and the Extruder to the E2 interface. How should I modify the Marlin firmware?

[gr5 2,268]

All your edits will be in pins.h.  Concentrate on that file.  There are instructions on how to rebuild the firmware here:

 

[gr5 2,268]

By the way, I doubt the temp sensor electronics is broken.  I've never heard of this.  But the sensor itself can definitely fail.  There is no solder inside the temp sensor (it would melt) so it is just crimped.  When you heat and cool this, the resistance can increase which makes the printer think the temp sensor is hotter than it is and you end up with a warm (but not hot) nozzle.  Or it can fail completely (open circuit).

 

Did you measure the resistance of the temp sensor with an ohm-meter?  You have to disconnect the temp sensor from the ultiboard first as that will throw off your measurement.  The PT100 should be around 109 ohms at room temperature (and 100 ohms at 0C).

 

[dt_xiaoyi 0]

11 hours ago, gr5 said:

All your edits will be in pins.h.  Concentrate on that file.  There are instructions on how to rebuild the firmware here:

 

Thanks for your reply! Actually i have made the following attempts,

1. modify the configuration.h in folder Marlin from  https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20

#define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 10

change to 

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 20
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20

//#define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 10

2. modify the temperature.h in folder Marlin from  https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

replace all HEATER_0 in temperature.h to HEATER_1.

After completing the above operation，the machine runs  fine. But the temp sensor value in LCD is wrong.

The temperature of sensor is always 489c.

After that, i do some new changesas following:

1. modify the thermistortables.h in in folder Marlin from  https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

exchange the HEATER_0 with the HEATER_1

and then i verified the marllin project in Arduino IDE successfully, but when i upload to board, Error-stopped temp sensor coccured.

[dt_xiaoyi 0]

12 hours ago, gr5 said:

By the way, I doubt the temp sensor electronics is broken.  I've never heard of this.  But the sensor itself can definitely fail.  There is no solder inside the temp sensor (it would melt) so it is just crimped.  When you heat and cool this, the resistance can increase which makes the printer think the temp sensor is hotter than it is and you end up with a warm (but not hot) nozzle.  Or it can fail completely (open circuit).

 

Did you measure the resistance of the temp sensor with an ohm-meter?  You have to disconnect the temp sensor from the ultiboard first as that will throw off your measurement.  The PT100 should be around 109 ohms at room temperature (and 100 ohms at 0C).

 

The problem i met is mentioned in my previous topic. Because of the D12 in board i thought may be  some problem occur in HEARTER1 or temp sensor 1.

Thaks for your advice, i will check the resistance of PT100 as soon. 

 

[gr5 2,268]

I think you did the wrong edit.  You should only be messing with the first temp sensor.

 

The change you made told the printer you aren't using PT100 anymore but some other temp sensor.  Not sure which.  Probably a 10K thermistor.

 

Let me look at pins.h...

[gr5 2,268]

First of all you want the "ultiboard v2.0 pin assignment" section.  that's the ultimaker 2.  aka "motherboard == 72".

 

Then this section:

#define HEATER_BED_PIN              4   // PG5
#define TEMP_BED_PIN                10  // PK2 => Analog10

#define HEATER_0_PIN                2   // PE4
#define TEMP_0_PIN                  8   // PK0 => Analog8

#define HEATER_1_PIN                3   // PE5
#define TEMP_1_PIN                  9   // PK1 => Analog9

You want the gcodes and the firmware to still use "heater0/temp0" but you want to tell the firmware that the heater and temp sensor are now using different pins.

 

#define HEATER_BED_PIN              4   // PG5
#define TEMP_BED_PIN                10  // PK2 => Analog10

#define HEATER_0_PIN                3   // PE4      USING DIFFERENT ELECTRICAL PINS
#define TEMP_0_PIN                  9   // PK0 => Analog8

#define HEATER_1_PIN                3   // PE5
#define TEMP_1_PIN                  9   // PK1 => Analog9

 

[gr5 2,268]

All the changes you did need to be undone as well.

[dt_xiaoyi 0]

On 11/12/2021 at 9:54 PM, gr5 said:

All the changes you did need to be undone as well.

Thank you for your guidance, I have made the new changes exactly as you suggested. However, after restarting the machine, there is still a problem with the heating. Specifically, when the temperature reaches about 180C, the machine automatically restarts, as shown in this video.

 

[dt_xiaoyi 0]

And I have tested the TP100 resistance value and TP100 of TEMP1 has a resistance of 4.8k ohms.The rest is normal. I have a question, now that I have changed the pins, the temperature value is obtained from TP100 of TEMP2, why does it still appear to restart automatically.

[gr5 2,268]

 

So your power supply is doing that.  You can replace it with a different power supply. 

 

There are 2 types:

GST220A24-R7B
GS220A24-R7B

 

Most of the newer machines (last 5 years) have the GST version.  Older ones have GS version.  In my experience the GS ones put out much more power (like 20% more) before tripping like it did for you.  So you could consider buying a new power supply of either type but I'd lean to the GS version.

 

However these UM2 printers are always on the edge of failing like in your video so there is another solution:

 

Get the "tinker" version of ultimaker marlin.  Of course you need to edit pins.h again.  You can get it here:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin

 

Make sure it says "geek_mode" in the dropdown towards the upper left corner and then click the green button and download as zip file.

 

After building and compiling you have a new feature called "power budget".  To me the power budget feature is very simple but it seems to confuse people.  The power budget feature does not know how much power each element uses so you just tell it.  Tell it how many watts everything is and what the budget is and it will make sure heaters are turned off or turned down a bit when they would exceed the budget.  The bed gets lowest priority.

 

In this version of Marlin is a power budget system.  Set the bed to 150W (that's what it's supposed to be I think) and set the nozzle to 25W (if you have 3rd party nozzle such as 3dsolex then set this to what is truth - what nozzle actually is).

 

Then if you set the budget to 175W (150+25) the power budget won't do anything and the printer will work normal.  If you lower the budget to 150W then the power budget will lower the power to the bed when the nozzle is on.  This changes many times per second (adjustments of power to nozzle).  All the remaining power goes to the bed if the bed wants it.

 

So for example if you use 150/25/150 as I mention above and the nozzle is on at 50% (12.5 watts) then the bed will only be allowed 12.5 watts below budget (150-12.5 is 137.5 watts) and so the bed will never exceed 92% power at that time.  This changes 20 times per second (nozzle asking for more then less power, bed occasionally restricted a little bit).