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However I cannot get the bed 1mm away from the printhead/nozzle. The closest I can get it is about 5mm with screws backed all the way off (until they actually come out!)
During the first pass of manual leveling the encoder wheel (besides the display) is used to move the buildplate up. The screws are only touched for the later fine tuning. So - carefully follow the instruction on the little screen and note the wording difference (wheel vs. screw - if i remember right).
I think it's a good practice to fully tighten all three leveling screws, than loosen them one or two revolutions (all screws approx. for the same amount), than start manual leveling.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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tinkergnome 927
During the first pass of manual leveling the encoder wheel (besides the display) is used to move the buildplate up. The screws are only touched for the later fine tuning. So - carefully follow the instruction on the little screen and note the wording difference (wheel vs. screw - if i remember right).
I think it's a good practice to fully tighten all three leveling screws, than loosen them one or two revolutions (all screws approx. for the same amount), than start manual leveling.
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