printer not zero'n in

[gtolover 0]

hi im a new owner of a Bibo 3d printer with dual extruders and i have an issue i need help with

ive printed several items but it doesnt start in bed center,instead it begins about 2 inches to the rear and one inch to the right from the center point 

im sure its an easy fix but has me stumped

any help is most appreciated

[GregValiant 1,245]

They make several models.  Which one is it?

If you load a model (calibration cube or benchy will work) and set Cura up to slice and then use the File | Save Project command and post the 3mf file here someone will take a look.

[gtolover 0]

i read on another topic here to uncheck set at zero and that seemed to help,i do appreciate the prompt reply,this printer or me actually is giving me a slew of issues

do you know what mm to set the extrusion to?

Edited February 6, 2022 by gtolover

[GregValiant 1,245]

Most of the rectangular bed printers have the Origin at the left front corner.  When you "Auto-Home" the printer it most likely is at 0,0,0 and Cura needs to match wherever that is.  If it's in the middle of the bed, then it is an Origin at Center machine.

The printer will take the numbers from a gcode file and put that files 0,0,0 origin at the Home Offset position defined in the printer.  If the Home Offset is not defined in the printer, then the print won't be in the exact center of the bed.

I don't know what you mean by "what mm to set the extrusion to".

 

GTO on the other hand is "Gran Turismo Omologato" which in English translates to "Gas, Tires, and Oil".  I had a drop top 1965 Goat with the 3 deuces and a 4 speed.  Nice car.  It's amazing to see one today and to notice how big they were compared to todays cars.

I'm big on stupid sayings and here is one of my own "The 389 Pontiac V8 will see 6000rpm exactly once in it's life".

Now if you are talking about being a Ferrari GTO lover then I can't help.

 

 

Edited February 6, 2022 by GregValiant

[gtolover 0]

gto is a great ride,i had a 67 since '78 and just sold it recently,kick my hm hm alot to

in the area where i set my extruder temp is a box called exclusion and is set in mm

[GregValiant 1,245]

Is that in Cura or on the printer?  All the temps and flow settings in Cura are in the Material section.  There may be a Bibo group on Reddit or support at the Bibo website that can be more help with the printer.

[gtolover 0]

its on the printer,,to heat it for printing,i didnt know you could heat the extruder in cura

 

[gtolover 0]

let me ask some stupid q's if you dont mind

i can leave the filament loaded right?

i can begin the extruder heat up and execute the print from cura?

how do i designate when the 2nd extruder with different color begin?

how do you get thin walls and small holes out of a print?

when i want both extruders to print,is this done in cura software and is it in cura where you decide when to use the 2nd extruder?

 

i apologize for such newbie questions but i cant find these answers anywhere

 

Edited February 6, 2022 by gtolover

[GregValiant 1,245]

1.  Get to know the printer.  You've been playing with it, but really get to know it and how to adjust things on it.

 

2.  Open any Gcode file you have created with a text editor program like Windows Notepad and look at the code.  Each line is a single instruction to the printer.  Lines that start with a semi-colon are "comments" and are ignored by the printer.  In a line like "G28 ;Auto-home" the command ends at the semi-colon and everything following is a comment.  "G" commands are generally movement commands, but some are printer setup commands (G21 tells the printer that the location numbers in a gcode file are metric).  "M" commands change settings in the printer.  M104 sets the hot end temperature and the gcode will move on while M109 also sets the hot end temperature but will wait for the temperature to be reached before continuing.  Take some time to peruse the List of Marlin Firmware Commands paying close attention to the ones that you see you your gcode file (like G28, G29, M140, M201, etc.).  You need to have at least a passing knowledge of what they tell the printer to do.  It makes troubleshooting a lot easier.

 

3.  Cura is not a simple piece of software.  It is my preference for a couple of reasons - it is highly "customizable" and it is just plain good at what it does.  Take some time to navigate around Cura and all the Menu items and their sub menus.  Cura is modular and you can load extra pieces to it.  When you check "Extensions/Post-Processing/Modify Gcode" you will find that it brings up a dialog box.  The Add Scripts button will bring up a list of things that can be automatically performed after Cura has sliced a model.  For example, Pause at Height will stop a print and you can add a nut, change color on an extruder, that sort of thing.

The MarketPlace button will (eventually) bring up list of other things that can be added.  There are different shaped support blockers, and other utilities available for download.  In particular one of them is the "Settings Guide" and another is "Printer Settings".  I suggest that you load both of those.

 

Yes you can leave most filaments loaded.  The caveat is 90% of filaments can absorb water from the air.  PVA and Nylon are really bad and even during printing they should be in a humidity controlled box.  I print mostly PLA and PETG.  They can be left in place on the machine.  I'm in Florida and it is always humid so once in a while I may need to dry a roll.

 

If you have a USB connection then you can do some things from Cura.  It is not the best "Print Server" out there.  If you are on Windows then I have an option that I wrote.  It does not send the Gcode over the USB, but rather controls the SD card printing from the connected computer.  Everything you might need to do from the LCD (like pre-heating, Auto-Homing, simply moving the print head around, and adjusting settings) can be done from the software.  I hate that stupid LCD knob.  Above the list of print settings is a search box.  Just to the right is an icon with 3 lines on it.  That tool is "Setting Visibility".  Click on it and set it to "All".  Between the popup descriptions and the Settings Guide you should get a handle on what everything is capable of.

 

There is a fellow on YouTube that has some pretty good "getting started" videos.  CHEP and he calls his shows Filament Friday.  He's pretty good and although he is Creality centric the information will cross over to your Bibo.  Speaking of Bibo, I asked which model you have because different "dual extruder" printers need to set up differently in Cura.  An IDEX printer may or may not be useable with Cura.  A 2-in-1-out machine gets set up differently than a dual extruder-dual hot end printer does.

 

The second extruder can be used alone (disable Extruder1) or it can be used with a different material (like water soluble PVA) to build support for the main model.  If you have multiple models you can print one with Extruder1 and the second with Extruder2.  If a single model is made up of different meshes (multiple pieces making up a single model) then each mesh can be set to it's own extruder.  On Thingiverse you can find Benchy boats that are multi-mesh and so can be printed in multi-colors.  They are good to practice on.  Cura will understand that both extruders are enabled, and when to switch between extruders.  The extruders need to clean themselves out when they are switched to.  That usually means a purge tower where the nozzle can go and dump some material.  That is more important with 2-in-1-out hot ends but is needed at least a little bit on a dual extruder - dual hot end printer.  In the Cura workspace on the lower left will be two buttons "1" and "2".  When you select a Mesh (a model) in Cura you can then select which extruder to use for it by clicking the appropriate button.

 

Study the gcode commands.

Cruise around Cura and get to know where things are.  Set the Settings Visibility to "All" and get to know what's available.

You will probably need to calibrate the E-steps for both extruders.

Start with simple models and work your way up.

Sending a print over the USB is sketchy at best.  The preferred method is the Octoprint and Raspberry PI combination.

I'm attaching Greg's SD Print Tool for Windows.  It's a simple interface that you can use to send some commands to the printer and to print from the SD card that is inserted in the printer.  It is "unsigned" and if you decide to install it you will need to get it by your anti-virus software.  I have a full version but it's more complicated and I think you have enough on your plate to last a bit.

 

My fingers are tired and it's time for another cup of coffee.

 

 

[gtolover 0]

thank you for such a lengthy reply i really appreciate it

im afraid changing the gcode will be over my head  for now,i learn things at my age by repetition and via video's...ive come a loong way but i know its gonna take time in order to reap any benefits,my biggest obstacle right now is being unable to get my network to see my printer  so i have to only use my sdcard,,this  has been the biggest project ive ever tried to learn and fortunately i dont give up.

one day i hope to use one of my drones to create printable objects.

its people like you that really make this possible  and your time is most appreciated.

this is the printer that i have

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LNADH8M/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A389YHOP96DZ1C&psc=1

 

again,thank you!

[GregValiant 1,245]

If you are older than me it can't be by much or you'd be in the ground.

There have been a few folks come in here with questions about printing thin wall models for RC planes and drones.  I'm sure you will have questions.

 

I found this LINK on the BIBO SITE.  It says it is the settings to use in a slicer and Cura was one of the slicers listed.

 

[gtolover 0]

ill have to put alot of this on hold till i get my computer connected,ive never seen connecting something be so difficult

but in time,,,i guess

[gtolover 0]

hey greg answer this if you would please to see if i understand the procedures

i build a object in a program such as meshmixer,then i take that object and open it in cura then in cura

i set all my printer settings in cura for that object and use my internet connection to copy it to the sdcard which is in the printer

now if all this is right can i set the bed temp and extruder temp in cura and once i send all this to my sdcard the printer will heat things up and begin printing?

this sounds like im dumb as a box of rocks but at 67 years old things arent as easy as they used to be,

i do really appreciate all your help..

[GregValiant 1,245]

Ha...I knew you were kid.  I've got you by 4 years.

I'll try and explain.  I know you are new at this and some of it is either overwhelming or just confusing.  Please bear with me (you impetuous youth).

There is no real need to pre-heat the hot end or bed from the LCD control.  The temperatures will be in there.

 

The StartUp Gcode may contain temperature information for the hot end and bed.  If it does not, then Cura will add the temperature lines to the Gcode.   It does that so there is no inadvertent Cold Extrusion.

Within the "Printer Settings" group are a couple of settings that apply: 

Wait for Build Plate Heatup

Wait for Nozzle Heatup

You absolutely want to wait for the nozzle.  Maybe the bed not so much.

When the printer starts reading the Gcode it will come to the bed temperature, then the nozzle temperature.  When they are both heated up to the Initial Layer temperatures you had set in Cura, then the real part of the print will start.

Gcode files are just text files and can be opened in Notepad.  You will see the M140 and M190 for the bed and the M104 and the M109 for the hot end temps. 

 

If you have an Auto Bed Leveler then there are things that can change the timing of the hot end heat up so it doesn't drool across the build plate during leveling.  It would be something like:

M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;start to heat the bed to the initial layer temperature

M109 S150 ;heat the hot end and wait for it

M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;wait for the bed to hit the temperature.

G28 ;Auto-Home

G29 ;Bed Leveling

M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;now heat the hot end to the initial layer print temperature and wait for it.

 

In that snippet, I've used "replacement patterns" which are variable names used in Cura.  When the gcode is created, Cura will replace the names with the actual settings.

So the bed starts to heat and then the hot end starts to heat.  Because the hot end command is the M109 then no more Gcode will be read until the hot end is at the temperature.  Since I've only let it get to 150 there should be no oozing during travel.

G28 is auto home, and then the G29 (yours may be different) is the Auto-Level routine.  When that gets done the Hot End is ordered to heat to the printing temperature.

 

Because you have the Dual extrusion setup then your StartUp Gcode may be different.  The Extruders are referred to by "T" numbers and your Extruder #1 would be "T0" in the gcode and Extruder #2 would be "T1" in the gcode.

M104 S210 T1 indicates that Extruder #2 is to heat up to 210°.

 

[gtolover 0]

sometimes you have to walk away from all of it and the answer will just pop up,,like for me last night around 1 am and it was too late to go further....my next step is to get my printer networked ,this is win7 so ima gonna see if my win10 computer will recognize things.....ill be coming back to your replys and study how to code things,,,you wouldnt know by my ignorance on this that im a big computer buff myself with over 15k in my 3 computers but ive learned that even the most simple thing can stump ya till its understood

thx ole man i appreciate everything

now i said ole and not old lol

 

 

 

 

[GregValiant 1,245]

There is a lot to this 3D printing thing.  I've been working with Gcode since the late 1960's when I was at Fisher Body.  It was the first GM facility to get a CNC mill and the friggin' thing was the size of a LARGE locomotive.  It was 1" paper tape and punch cards.  Things have moved along a bit but Gcode is Gcode and serial communication has gotten faster but hasn't changed all that much.

 

Another thing that hasn't changed much is K.I.S.S.  Life is much easier just putting the gcode file on an SD card and sticking it in the printer.  That way when "all the confusion jumps up" there is less to have to stare at and try to fix.

[gtolover 0]

wheres the send button in cura??

[GregValiant 1,245]

To send the Gcode over the USB?  It's the Slice button.  There should be an arrow on the right end.  The usual options are "Save to Disc" or "Save to Removeable Drive" but if USB is an option then it will also be available as an option on the arrow.  The rest of the stuff is on the "Monitor" page.  Come to think of it, you can preheat from there.  You can send simple commands like G28 to auto-home but there is no provision to display the printer response.  

[gtolover 0]

i just watched a video and the send option is at the slice box which i cant see since im not connected to wifi yet,,

ive got a total of 9 computers in my home and have well over 100 smart devices connected and never had this much issue,my printer has an ip address but my computer cant see it,i read a troubleshoot article where certain ports need to be open so i guess thats my next step

what state are you from greg>?

[GregValiant 1,245]

Detroit Michigan.  We've been here in Florida for 7 years.

 

GTOLover - are you sure you are getting the KISS principle?  I'm thinking that having to deal with an IP address doesn't fall under "keep it simple".  It's why I went back to a cheap flip phone.

[gtolover 0]

i just figured kiss was an inside joke,,im just the kind of guy if it can be done then i gotta do it,lol

so tell me,the g code tells the printer what to do basically,does this also mean if i use cura to slice,,then take the sdcard and put it in the printer and start the print then it will heat the bed and extruder according to what i set in cura and after thats done itll begin the building process,is this right?

[GregValiant 1,245]

Exactly.  All the instructions the printer needs are in the file.

 

When first starting out, the #1 thing that people struggle with is getting the first layer to stick to the build plate.  Some folks like glue stick, I use Aquanet Super Hold, other folks print on blue painters tape.  But getting a good first layer down is the key.

[gtolover 0]

ive learned more from you these past days than i have the whole last week several hours a day,,thx greg

[gtolover 0]

well greg,ive made some progress since we last txted

i got my printer online finally,i had to add a wifi program to get it to work,i dont see why docs are so hard to give to buyers rather than have to figure it out themselves

i got my printing dialed in alot better and producing decent prints.

bout all i need to do is figure out why cura isnt heating my bed and extruder but im sure its in the settings even tho i know i had it set,i had to stop to print my gdaughter a bear,lol.

maybe in a few weeks ill be as good as you NOT! lol

we all need a good laugh now and then.

[GregValiant 1,245]

Yeah, if we weren't laughing we'd be crying.  Better to look at the bright side.

 

I don't understand the "not heating" thing.

Load a simple model into Cura and use the File / Save Project command to save a 3mf file.  Post the 3mf file here.  Maybe there is something in there I can catch.  If worse comes to worse you would have to ask for support on the Bibo site.