Have you tried these options?
- Keep all model-cooling fans off during the whole print? If you do not have overhangs, it might work.
- Make a custom brim in CAD that is thicker, for example 0.5mm, thus 2 to 5 layers thick, depending on your layer height? That should make it much more stable, but also harder to remove of course.
- When creating a custom brim in CAD, design "mickey mouse ears" around critical corners.
- Use PET / PETG instead of ABS? Unless it has to be ABS because you want to paint it, chemically smooth it, or glue it, in most cases PET might be good enough. PET can withstand the heat of a car interior in the sun (contrary to PLA), and it is chemically reasonably inert for mild products. I don't know about UV-resistance, but PET bottles do survive long in nature... PET can be chemically smoothed with dichloromethane, although it does not work as well as acetone on ABS.
Custom brims designed in CAD for the overhanging supports (pink and orange), and for the hollow cube, because they need it. The rest not. For reference: text caps height is 3.5mm, text leg width is 0.5mm, so these are small items.
Left model is as printed, right model is chemically smoothed with dichloromethane CH2Cl2. This is PET. For reference: the nylon screw wheel is 16mm diameter. I don't remember if I brushed-on the CH2Cl2, or if I quickly dipped the models in it for a few seconds, I have used both methods. But if you do this too long, the models tend to warp after drying, because the solvent softens them.
I managed to get it stick with a glue stick without solvent at 110° plus raft shield plus corner anti warp plugin and cooling off.Edited by demonsgalore
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