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I believe that the "Support Bottom Distance" only comes into play if the "bottom" rests on the model. If the bottom is on a raft or on the build plate then there is no setting for an air gap. Support Bottom Distance isn't available at all if you are printing the supports "Touching Buildplate".
Every once in a while I'll see a gap between my aluminum heated bed and the glass build surface. The Ender has 4 adjustment screws and so they can have an effect on the flatness of the bed.
When I see the gap, I pull off the glass and get out my carpenters square and square up the back of the aluminum plate to the Z uprights, and then the front of the plate to the Z uprights. The result is that the aluminum plate is flat again and it stays that way for a while until my manual leveling knocks it out of whack again. Another thing you can do for a glass build surface is to add aluminum foil shims between the bed and the glass to compensate for the warpage.
I was more of referring to the supports fusing to the raft
as in is their an air gap setting for that so I can make it easyer to remove the raft first which will makes it much easyer for me to remove the tree supports
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The full stable release of UltiMaker Cura 5.4 is here and it makes it easier than ever to remove brims and supports from your finished prints. UltiMaker S series users can also look forward to print profiles for our newest UltiMaker PET CF composite material!
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GregValiant 1,110
I believe that the "Support Bottom Distance" only comes into play if the "bottom" rests on the model. If the bottom is on a raft or on the build plate then there is no setting for an air gap. Support Bottom Distance isn't available at all if you are printing the supports "Touching Buildplate".
Every once in a while I'll see a gap between my aluminum heated bed and the glass build surface. The Ender has 4 adjustment screws and so they can have an effect on the flatness of the bed.
When I see the gap, I pull off the glass and get out my carpenters square and square up the back of the aluminum plate to the Z uprights, and then the front of the plate to the Z uprights. The result is that the aluminum plate is flat again and it stays that way for a while until my manual leveling knocks it out of whack again. Another thing you can do for a glass build surface is to add aluminum foil shims between the bed and the glass to compensate for the warpage.
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