I don't think you can run the "cold pull" feature but you can do it manually - for a cold pull you set the temperature to typical printing temperature, remove the bowden, push down on the filament into the hot core and then lower the temperature to the "cold" temp. Maintain downward pressure until it gets to the cold temp. Once the temp reaches the cold temp you pull up quite hard and if you get it just right it takes quite a bit of force - maybe 5 pounds force (so do it with the print head in a corner so you don't bend the rods) and then if you are lucky the tip of the filament is shaped like the inside of the nozzle including the tip. And any clogs come out as well.
Then cut off the end of the filament and repeat (if you want). If the filament came out too easily then try a lower cold temp the next time. If it won't come out at all, raise the temp by 5C and keep trying.
Typical "cold" temps:
PLA 95C
Nylon 120C
But for me I mostly only get clogs on PVA. All other materials - I haven't had a clog that needed a cold pull in over a year (that's with 5 active printers. not non-stop. Not every day. But I typically have 3 printers going simultaneously for at least a few hours every week)
Anyway, my point is you can play with the temperature while the printer is paused (I think? Pretty sure.) so that's all you need to be able to do in order to change cores, change filament, clean a core, etc.
Recommended Posts
Youngbosambo 1
Apologies, should mention, I have an Ultimaker S3
Link to post
Share on other sites