GoguyT3d

Regardless that the third try was my pliers stabbing 2 gaping holes in my left palm, I'd simply like to know the Temps not condescending comments

I'm currently at My 20th try, anyone have simple access to the numbers listed in the firmware?

What I am trying to figure out is: what the "Cold temp" is that ultimaker s3 uses when using cleaning filament (clear PC) because I have great success cleaning my ultimaker but can't figure the temp on my ender v6

That was tried but didn't work for me

After installation 5.4 beta, it never fully booted correctly once always went straight to a technical problem dialog asking to wipe all my profiles and printers. After that mayhem 5.4 alpha is now all kinds of buggy but only after beta was tried. Should've read the comments first 😒

@Juzer99 your theory for cura is exactly what I thought "horizontal expansion" did, until I tried to use it for my shrinkage compensation for nylon, considering that it in fact horizontally contracts ID holes 🤔 so you need to double down on your Horizontal hole expansion for it to work together with Horizontal expansion. horizontal scaling factor shrinkage compensation is just the same as modifying the scale, but also not helping the ID holes yet compromising them like H.E. does (yet another 😕)

Up until recently I hadn't really put much thought into "same material but different manufacturer" until I tried materials made from 3 different countries. With that said I'm assuming my difficulty in printability is largely related to quality of filament. Yes all which you have said is correct and I have a horizontal hole expansion test of my own which also tests horizontal hole expansion, scale, z accuracy, top surface quality ect which I've noticed the diameter does change via the size but since I mostly print .125 - .5" holes which have tight tolerances in regard to fitment, I do a .75 x .75 x 2" block with 4 holes .125, .25, .375, and .5 , print with zero expansion settings, calculate the difference in hole from model in Fusion360,average all 4 hole offsets added together, divide by four, convert to metric for cura, and divide by two for radius which usually gives me a value that is very close to all needed holes which complies with my acceptable tolerances. I am currently on a nylon 6-66 from 3dx tech and it is proving to be much easier than the other that I was using.

@GregValiant that is helpful but I have alot of dimensions in Fusion that need the modification and I did try that but that threw me off as to wether the model was the problem or my scaling shrinkage factor was the problem. I am almost at the point of switching materials ( even though I know what's going on) as I am printing with a lower quality nylon. My question is "Does horizontal scaling factor shrinkage compensation make ID holes larger or smaller?" I have tried to use horizontal expansion thinking that was the resolution to horizontal shrinkage though my model was scaled up on the OD of my circular tube but the diameter was scaled down on the ID of the inside of the tube, then I thought "so now I have to add a horizontal expansion of .15 mm AND a horizontal hole expansion of .3 or .45?!?!(to make up for the additional .15mm which wrongfully reduced on my ID) Inside diameter holes NEVER shrink outward (larger) they always shrink inward, even with foamy materials, so, @nallath does this setting (horizontal scaling factor shrinkage compensation) need some additional work, or am I crazy for not seeing another setting which can negate this scaling problem. All in all I need to know what polygons are affected, weather it be by radius or diameter Horizontal expansion - I assume its diameter mm because its scaled as a whole on x + y Horizontal Hole expansion - I know its radius mm Horizontal scaling factor shrinkage compensation - I think its radius but also think it shrinks the ID when you make a + value (not sure if the ID is decreased by the added% or double because of radius/diameter in coding) Horizontal scaling x + y - I think it is a size percentage as a whole

I have a problem similar but not the same. I opened an old 3mf file which had a printing profile (not supported and outdated) I no longer had in cura, and it pasted the old profile in my list of custom profiles, I want to simply click on it and select remove so I can reopen the 3mf and simply import it into my newer supported profile, though when I click on it cura crashes and asks for a error report to be sent. How do I simply remove it? UPDATE: After doing some thorough digging on GitHub and ultimaker community I found that with cura v5.0 (where I was) the file in relation to the profile I needed to remove was unfindable. I went out on a limb and downloaded v5.2.2 and looked into the config folder and found it, temporarily deleted it, restarted cura, restarted pc and the profile was removed without error on my list of custom profiles. It originated from ...roaming/cura/5.2/quality_changes. Now I'm currently going through my dozens of old 3mfs and, changing the filament then profile settings and any other settings that need to be customized per model then opening the 3mfs and importing and resaving to the original file to wipe any future possibilities of crap old non updated profiles being added back in.

I agree @gr5, I mistakenly purchased pure virgin PTFE 1/4"x1/8" on Amazon, before I learned ultimaker uses PFA, cut it to length and recently installed it because my original bowden kept popping out, even after I snipped the end off and re installed. I have the ptfe in now and printing with no popping out yet fingers crossed. But I'm almost sure it's the bowden clip because it's 2+ years old and probably worn/dull, got 4 more bowden clips on order right now. Once I use my last backup PTFE I found a supplier that sells PFA-clear for less than the ultimaker suppliers ie Matterhackers,Dynamism, fabric8

For me the blades on the collet were fine but I noticed significant wear(chew marks) where it was before and I ended up cutting 10mm off which is juuuuust above where it chews for grip. I also noticed on the piece of tubing I cut off of the official ultimaker bowden, there is a chamfer (on the extruder end) on the inside diameter of the tubing probably for easy filament insertion, so on my newly cut piece i used a chamfer drill bit to make it the same profile. I've included some pictures of the super chew and the chamfer on the origial bowden.

To @miaooo , I'm sorry i noticed your post so late but I'll explain what caused and solved it for me. When i first got my printer it would auto level just fine but I had no idea how to manually level so I gave it a go, after that I was having the same problem as you "....exceeds realistic values" so as @MariMakes stated in #2 for the buildplate I manually releveled the bed and reversed what I thought that I did the first time I turned the thumbscrews, after that I have never gotten the error again, i think that theres a possibility that your bed is out of level causing the nozzles to touch at different heights and throw the machine off. Try to manually level and see what happens. Good luck

Did I mention you make my life "Mari", thank you

@MariMakes Thank you, I will stay posted

@MariMakes you seem to be a helpful person on these forums, can you tell me if I need a specific file format or a maximum size file/pixel to upload a new profile pic? It doesn't seem to be working no matter what I click