Or you can use a mesh modifier which can say "inside this second STL modify the following settings". The mesh modifier can be any shape. It doesn't have to be boxy like in your example. It could be spherical (slow down the speed inside this sphere to these alternate speeds). more about this here:
Thank You gr5. The link was helpful.
I have another idea to make my model stronger without adding weight. I am going to start a new thread titled.
"Staggered Layer Lines"
In my application, I assume, it would mean using a cutting mesh at the weak spot. Within the Cutting Mesh one might be able to either make the top/bottom layers a different height than the walls thus staggering the layers for more strength. If there is not currently a way to do it then my suggestion is that an option to stagger the layer lines could even be used throughout the model...?
Seems to me this would help reduce the anisotropy/grain of the print. Could revolutionize the printing process..?...!
If your print has any anisotropy then something is wrong. This is extremely rare in PLA but common in higher temperature materials due to bad layer adhesion. In fact, at Ultimaker, when they test filaments and profiles, they have a part they print at different temperatures. It looks like a stick with deep notches. You break the stick at each temperature notch and if the break occurs along layer lines - well that's bad.
they have a score - how many layer lines the break crosses. If it crosses 0 lines it gets a 0 (bad). 10 lines it gets a 10 (good). Something like that anyway. They use this score along with the temperature, speed, layer height, nozzle width, print speed, fan speed, air temp - to pick the proper settings to avoid "grain" issues.
So... what are you printing? You probably have the fan speed too high if you are getting layer line issues. On my printers - if I set the fan speed to 20% or 100% I get the same fan speed. I suspect every printer is different so you have to play with the speeds which you can do live from the touch panel.
Thanks for the interesting information.
I am printing with ASA on a QIDI X-Plus. So ya, High temp. I'm currently printing at 250 at 30-40 mm/s
Please check out the other thread I started.
I'd experiment with lowering the fan. A lot.
Thanks for the interesting information.
I am printing with ASA on a QIDI X-Plus. So ya, High temp. I'm currently printing at 250 at 30-40 mm/s
Please check out the other thread I started.
I am printing with ASA, enclosed, all metal hot end and no fan. I am waiting for a 0.6 and 0.8 nozzle from china to experiment with. It will be a while so this thread will be old by then.
I checked out the other time the last time you mentioned it but you only speak about layer adhesion here and I'm not keen on your other ideas.
Is the print volume enclosed? Or just the hot end?
So some people say you should print thick layers so that molten plastic has more thermal mass and can full melt the layer below. Other people say print extra thin layers so the nozzle heat can reach the layer below. I don't know who is right. so I would try both and do the split test. Print a vertical "pencil shape". Say 1cm by 1cm by 8cm tall. Snap it in half. Score the layer adhesion by how well the break follows layer lines (breaking along layers is bad).
I'd love to hear what you learn if you do such an experiment. With different temps for the air, different line widths and different layer heights.
1
I'd be happy to keep you posted on my results but it will be a couple weeks til I get the nozzles.
Yes fully enclosed QIDI X-Plus
This is the video I am referencing for the the larger nozzle experiments.
This is the video I reference for layer height and lower layer height is stronger but it takes a lot longer to print.
Edited by Kotaztrafee
It looks like line width and layer height didn't make much difference as long as the layer height stayed below .3mm or so.
So instead you need to crank up the air temp. Maybe add an air heater as a separate component indepenedent from printer control? Like a heat lamp maybe? If you don't need any fan for overhangs then that is a good indication that the air is too cold. As the parts start to need fan for better overhang quality then you know you got the air hot enough. That's my guess anyway.
I've gotten ABS to print quite strong but only in a fully enclosed printer where the air temp was 35-40C. And the ABS needed fan for a nice quality looking print. But just a tiny bit of fan. Something like 1/10th as loud as normal.
Maybe raise the nozzle temp by 5C as well?
Yea, other videos suggest .15 on a .4 nozzle. So, that makes me think a .6 should be good at .25 thus faster. Which makes me think .35 with a .8 nozzle and faster yet.
I only need the strength in one area so with use of a Support Blocker I am theorizing I can print most of the model faster everywhere but the critical area with a different layer height and speed.
The chamber gets to 90F but if it turns out the chamber needs to be hotter heat lamps sound good. But I heard that an all metal steel nozzle hot ends run cooler and often needs to be run hotter (kinda confuses me but thats what someone said). I am at the max of the filament 255 degrees but will probably have to go higher than that considering the all metal theory and faster/more extrusion.
I have no overhangs on the model. The area I need strengthened is subject to torsion stress. So it's a twisting that is exerted on the critical area. This thing needs ejection molded to really be strong. My ABS thermoformed prototypes are damn near indestructible but thermoforming cant give me the detail and features the model needs to be marketed.
It also seems there may be a difference in filament brands and it seems some of my cheaper ASA filament is stronger than the more expensive stuff for whatever reason.
I think the 0.6 is going to be the sweet spot but we shall see. It's going to be an involved process unless I get lucky with my first guess or two. I'm probably going to have to make a log book of all the different settings.
Thanks for your help and interest.
Consider leaving holes to insert carbon fiber rods. You can leave these holes in the print, have the print pause at some layer (there is a pause at height plugin - probably the most popular plugin) and then manually insert the rods and have the print continue. Or metal rods. Or other shapes. If you can spread the load to many layers then layer adhesion is less critical. So even adding a long screw with a nut that you can add after the print is done - that doesn't connect anything to anything but just holds the layers together until the part gets wider again - that can add a huge amount of strength.
Why go ASA and ABS in the first place? Can't you stick with PLA and PETG which have really good layer adhesion? (because they melt at lower temperatures). And so are therefor MUCH stronger. Typically. People seem to think ABS is stronger but it's about the same as PLA if you print it right and with 90% of printers, PLA is much weaker because of layer adhesion. Are these for high temp prints? How hot will they get? There is HPLA (high temp PLA) that can be annealed in an oven and then can withstand 100C no problem. The problem is they shrink and twist a bit. So you need lots of support structures for when it's in the oven to hold it in place and compensation for shrinkage.
90F is 32C. I'd try to reach 40C. But not much higher if you have stepper motors in that air space. They are rated I think for 80C (actual temp I think? - not air temp). And 40C is reasonably safe but I wouldn't go higher.
Yea, other videos suggest .15 on a .4 nozzle. So, that makes me think a .6 should be good at .25 thus faster. Which makes me think .35 with a .8 nozzle and faster yet.
I only need the strength in one area so with use of a Support Blocker I am theorizing I can print most of the model faster everywhere but the critical area with a different layer height and speed.
The chamber gets to 90F but if it turns out the chamber needs to be hotter heat lamps sound good. But I heard that an all metal steel nozzle hot ends run cooler and often needs to be run hotter (kinda confuses me but thats what someone said). I am at the max of the filament 255 degrees but will probably have to go higher than that considering the all metal theory and faster/more extrusion.
I have no overhangs on the model. The area I need strengthened is subject to torsion stress. So it's a twisting that is exerted on the critical area. This thing needs ejection molded to really be strong. My ABS thermoformed prototypes are damn near indestructible but thermoforming cant give me the detail and features the model needs to be marketed.
It also seems there may be a difference in filament brands and it seems some of my cheaper ASA filament is stronger than the more expensive stuff for whatever reason.
I think the 0.6 is going to be the sweet spot but we shall see. It's going to be an involved process unless I get lucky with my first guess or two. I'm probably going to have to make a log book of all the different settings.
Thanks for your help and interest.
It is a fishing accessory. ASA is UV stable.
Making stops and post production processes with additional parts, time and labor cuts into any profitability of a printed product.
Edited by KotaztrafeeI have a PLA knob on a plexiglass door in my yard. I'm not sure if it gets direct sun but probably at least an hour a day for many months of the year. it is about 10 years old now and it looks like new. No fading. It is gray but it's a vibrant gray (lol). Not a "faded" gray.
But if you are selling these, definitely don't use PLA as it can melt during shipping or if left in a car on a very hot day.
Ready for an update?
I have tried to use the 0.6 nozzle on ASA to try getting a faster and stronger model. It was a success is that regard but it led to trouble in one area of the model. I never noticed this condition with the 0.4 nozzle but now that I am looking for it the condition seems to be occurring with the 0.4 nozzle. As I said, I'm not sure if this was occurring before I started the 0.6 experiments or not since the prints looked quite good and I've printed many. I've even tried a different brand filament.
I have run many different setting and I've attached photos of the results for some of them. You will notice that all the models labeled are at 0.3 LH but I have tried every thing down to 1.5LH and the condition persists. I've tried many more setting than what is shown but welcome any suggestions. I feel like we have to think outside the box on this one.
The outside layer in this one spot is curling up and messing up. Yes, I am in an enclosed QIDI X-Plus and I've checked for any hint of a draft (even from the nozzle fan, not sure I should shut disable that) and have rotated the model just in case.
The curling also occurs on the dots outer layer but doesn't seem to effect the final result.
I'm thinking there might be another adjustment such as skin overlap or something (I don't know) that will make this more reliable. I feel like the 0.6 still could work if I knew exactly what could remedy this curling / shrinkage / stress factor.
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Change At Z. Thanks anyway.
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