Taulman 645/618 nylon

[yellowshark 153]

Hi has anyone had decent results with either of these products? Wondering about settings, especially bed temperature and material.

I normally use hairspray on glass but suspect I might need to switch to blue tape for this. I failed miserably with their T-glass recently

 

[jeremie 13]

I posted lots of details if you like: http://www.tridimake.com/2014/01/how-to-3d-print-nylon-and-trimmer-line.html

I am so-so with Taulman. It is not cheap and yesterday I got yet another blockage in my nozzle due to the varying diameter (increased friction in the nozzle barrel until I could even barely move it manually!). Switched back to my much cheaper trimmer line

 

Hi has anyone had decent results with either of these products? Wondering about settings, especially bed temperature and material.

I normally use hairspray on glass but suspect I might need to switch to blue tape for this. I failed miserably with their T-glass recently

 

[joergen 2]

Look for Calin's excellent posts (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/908-calinb/) about Nylon and ABS in this forum

 

[jino 0]

Hi, also check this thread:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3643-nylon-on-a-um2/&do=findComment&comment=40328

[yellowshark 153]

Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated.

Joergen, I saw the good ABS article but I did not see anything on nylon. ??

Jeremie, yes that is a good article; I must read again more slowly and absorb it all . Interestingly though the Taulman website does talk about 645 being a different nylon, so I do not know if everything in the article is relevant. I say this because…

Early this evening(before seeing your posts) I decided to proceed - as I need to have a sample ready for a customer on Friday. With my earlier failure with their T-glass I expected to spend hours and hours and hours.

Well heck, it worked first time J!!!

The reel was still in its original packaging and I know I should still have dried it but it was about 17:00 hours and I knew that any suggestion that I needed the oven for a couple of hours would not have been received well by my wife!

I printed the standard test cube, setup as…

Temp 235c

Speed 20 m/s

Bed temperature – none

Layers .2 (.3 for first)

Fans 100% from layer 2

20 line brim

Glass plate with hairspray (my standard PLA base)

The first amazing result was that the brim just stuck immediately – the smile on my face was immense! And off it went. After about 1.5mm I got some under-extrusion. Hmnn I thought, so I increased the pressure slightly on the filament driver and that solved it.

At the end I thought I could see a few spots of under-extrusion so I did it again with the temp at 245, which is actually Taulman’s recommended temp. Great result, no warping at the corners, pretty good corners being vertically straight and reasonably sharp and no hint of rhino horns.

Of course with all the steam that was pouring out during the process the finish is frosted.

I then tried to run at 30 m/s but got under-extrusion, having finally pushed the temp. to 255. I figured it could well be due to the moisture content so I stopped. (of course it could be due to your point Jeremie about the thickness of the filament)

I went back to 20m/s and printed one of my pieces which is flat, about 1mm high but with a much larger surface area, about 8cm * 5cm; I got another good result without a hint of the corners warping.

So I am really pleased so far and the final piece demonstrated the flexibility that I think my customer wants.

I have cut 10mtrs off the reel and that is going in the oven at 08:00 tomorrow for a couple of hours and then I continue; to try and push a higher speed and try a more complex geometry.

 

 

[jino 0]

I assume you've only tried 645? 618 is way more easy to print at faster speeds in my experience..

EDIT: I removed the settings I wrote here, turned out I had a loose bowden tube, so they are not recommended