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Can you share the STL pls
No Idea.
How can I force Cura to use one speed on outer wall?
How do I force Cura to use one speed/flow on outside?
Edited by moschidreamerFWIW, I have the same problem and I was hoping someone has an answer.
I'm trying to get a better top layer that doesn't sag
Edited by RonS@RonS the 3mf file opened as a model file. Use the "File | Save Project" command to create a 3mf project file that will contain your settings and printer as well as the model. (When you "Export" from Cura an option is for a 3mf model only file ... no printer or settings.)
With just the model to work with and using my settings I get this.
Everything is at 75mm/sec except for the outer-wall because I have it set to 50 and that's what all the speeds in the gcode show.
1 hour ago, GregValiant said:@RonS the 3mf file opened as a model file. Use the "File | Save Project" command to create a 3mf project file that will contain your settings and printer as well as the model. (When you "Export" from Cura an option is for a 3mf model only file ... no printer or settings.)
With just the model to work with and using my settings I get this.
Everything is at 75mm/sec except for the outer-wall because I have it set to 50 and that's what all the speeds in the gcode show.
Hi Greg, thanks for replying.
Here is the 3mf file saved as you requested
(I set the screenshots up so the first skin is going down on just the top infill layer.)
The top layer sags because there is insufficient support below. The speed is off because you are Ironing at 50mm/sec and everything else is at 75mm/sec.
Here is the slice with your settings. Notice that the extrusions are going down into a gap in the Lightning infill. The ends of the Lightning infill are very thin. So the first layer of skin is going into a gap and it's also at Printing Temp so it's softening the skinny ends of the lightning bolts. The end result is sagging because there is either zero support, or the infill upper layers are softening and sagging along with the skin.
This is with the Infill Density at 20% and all of the Lightning angles at 50° and I've changed the Top/Bottom Line Directions to [0,90] so the first skin doesn't fall into the gaps as much. This allows for better support for ALL the skins. The heat problem is still there but probably not as troublesome.
This is good ole' Grid infill at 15% density. You can see that the first layer of skin is well supported. If you set the Infill Layer Thickness to 2X Layer Height then the infill only goes down every other layer. That decreases the time penalty (vs Lightning) to about 7 minutes. It also results in a much more robust part.
You could try turning off the infill and enabling the Bridge settings. The part is only 2" diameter and bridging should work but it might be necessary to add another top layer.
Wow, an encyclopedia of information in one post. Amazing! Thank You
14 hours ago, GregValiant said:The speed is off because you are Ironing at 50mm/sec and everything else is at 75mm/sec.
I didn't have the Ironing Speed visible and when I enabled it it was set at 25mm?
14 hours ago, GregValiant said:This is with the Infill Density at 20% and all of the Lightning angles at 50° and I've changed the Top/Bottom Line Directions to [0,90] so the first skin doesn't fall into the gaps as much. This allows for better support for ALL the skins. The heat problem is still there but probably not as troublesome.
I inserted all these settings and try them out today.
14 hours ago, GregValiant said:This is good ole' Grid infill at 15% density. You can see that the first layer of skin is well supported. If you set the Infill Layer Thickness to 2X Layer Height then the infill only goes down every other layer. That decreases the time penalty (vs Lightning) to about 7 minutes.
I'll try this one next
14 hours ago, GregValiant said:It also results in a much more robust part.
True.
In the past I would make these as hollow tubes and they worked well, I decided to try to use end caps to see if it would be better. I even tried to print the end caps separately and glue them in place
14 hours ago, GregValiant said:The part is only 2" diameter and bridging should work but it might be necessary to add another top layer.
Some of these models I make are up to 4" in diameter and your robust settings may be just what is needed
Winter trees is hollow and works well. The fern has a top and bottom layer and is 4" in diameter (yet to be printed
Edited by RonS
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moschidreamer 0
Nobody am Idea?! Because I see theese changes and distroys my print in quality! Prusa is also fail, there is material missing on all seams on all my printers.
Edited by moschidreamerLink to post
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