Thanks for your quick reply Joergen. Oh thats interesting that you mention 3-5 degs higher.. I increased the speed steadily to 400%...at about 250%, flow of melted filament decreased (it became spotty), so i was increasing temp 7-10degs at a time till i thought I had a steady flow at 245degrees and 400% speed.. At that point everything that could go wrong went wrong: bowden hot end jammed as heat reached the bowden quickly (I believe), filament began slipping, so i tightened the screw and that made the filament strip/deform, which resulted in the filament being clogged at the cold end; nozzle was oozing PLA from the side (between peek and nozzle)..with cuts to the bowden tube, it cannot reach the front left corner..
I ordered some pfa tubing from mcmasters today..
It seems to be an art But next time around, I will perform my tests in a more controlled manner..
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joergen 2
I would go for 100mm/s first, same temp, and see if everything holds up... then maybe crank it up to 150mm/s... 200 is something for certain models, and well oiled and worn in UMs. if the filament starts slipping, lower the speed (via M220 S100 means 100%), and set the temp 3-5 deg higher (M104 Sxxx), wait a bit, and then continue the print at your target speed with M220 S300 (for 150mm/s relative to 50mm/s) I found live tuning based on a known good print setting the best thing to learn what your UM does. use the same method to actually lower the temp as far down as possible.
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