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· First layer not sticking in rear corner on UM2+
I split this into a new topic.
This is a common problem on UM2/UM3. The glass is tempered and the process results in glass that is thicker in the middle. Like a hill. Add that to the fact that we level at the 3 leveling screws so leveling is perfect in those 3 spots - this results in low spots in the 2 rear corners because we have tilted the rear of the glass down and front of the glass up (so the two front "low" corners are now perfect).
This results in bad adhesion because of all the tricks (raft, brim, rounded corners, glue, heat, squish), squishing the filament into the plate affects/increases adhesion the most.
The glass will bend back up with very little force - just a few ounces. One solution is to bend hard the aluminum plate underneath the glass up in the corners. This worked great for me but then I realized that the underside of the aluminum plate has the heater spread evenly everywhere and I could have damaged it! But it's too late - problem fixed for me. I was lucky. 🙂
Another trick is to put a shim - maybe a dime - under the glass in the corners. I'm not sure what will hold down the bed in the middle though? But it seems to work for many people. Folded paper might work as well. You only need to raise things about .2mm typically.
The best trick is to avoid those 2 corners (which you can't do with some large prints).
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,178
I split this into a new topic.
This is a common problem on UM2/UM3. The glass is tempered and the process results in glass that is thicker in the middle. Like a hill. Add that to the fact that we level at the 3 leveling screws so leveling is perfect in those 3 spots - this results in low spots in the 2 rear corners because we have tilted the rear of the glass down and front of the glass up (so the two front "low" corners are now perfect).
This results in bad adhesion because of all the tricks (raft, brim, rounded corners, glue, heat, squish), squishing the filament into the plate affects/increases adhesion the most.
The glass will bend back up with very little force - just a few ounces. One solution is to bend hard the aluminum plate underneath the glass up in the corners. This worked great for me but then I realized that the underside of the aluminum plate has the heater spread evenly everywhere and I could have damaged it! But it's too late - problem fixed for me. I was lucky. 🙂
Another trick is to put a shim - maybe a dime - under the glass in the corners. I'm not sure what will hold down the bed in the middle though? But it seems to work for many people. Folded paper might work as well. You only need to raise things about .2mm typically.
The best trick is to avoid those 2 corners (which you can't do with some large prints).
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