5.60 defaulting to 70 degree build plate for PLA?

[slikvik 0]

I recently upgraded to 5.60 from Standard version 4 and Elegoo Cura 4, and couldn't understand why my prints weren't sticking very well with things sliced with this version, but the exact same STL generated in the older versions was fine. Eventually I noticed that even though I've selected the correct printer "Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro" and selected Generic PLA which has a build plate temp of 60, when I look at the Profile temps it's showing 70 degrees. This is too hot for most PLA I believe. 

 

I can't see where this temperature is being set as it says its the default for the extruder, however, shouldn't this change based on the material you select?

 

[Slashee_the_Cow 303]

Generic PLA defaults for me in 5.6 are print temperature is 200°, plate temperature is 60°. Are you sure you haven't accidentally overwritten them in your quality profile? Right click on the setting name (i.e. Build Plate Temperature) and select Use value from material.

[slikvik 0]

Hey. I've installed it on two separate machines, one had no Cura on it previously and the other had the Eleegoo version (which is 60°). On both, it is setting my build plate to 70. Could it be a problem with the Neptune 3 Pro hot end settings in 5.6, if you're not having the problem? 

 

As you can see from the screenshot. Those ARE the defaults even after clicking to reset them.

 

I can assure you 100% that it was defaulting to 70 and I would never play with those settings, even accidentally, as 3D printing still somewhat scares the hell out of me! 

Edited January 2 by slikvik

[slikvik 0]

Please see screenshot where I have changed the value below from it's default. As soon as you do that if gives you a revert to default icon. The build plate does not temp does not have that Icon as it IS the default. It is set at 70 degrees for generic PLA.

Also please see the hint bubble. What does this mean.

 

Sorry to bump this post but I am certain this is a bad setting default in 5.6 and causing problems. It may not have been tried by many people with Neptune Pro 3 printers yet (if that is the cause).

 

Older versions of Cura and orca slicer all do 60 degrees by default of course.

Edited January 2 by slikvik

[DivingDuck 105]

c:\Program Files\UltiMaker Cura 5.6.0\share\cura\resources\materials\generic_pla_175.xml.fdm_material

Looking to the generic PLA Material setting it state 60°C as default temperature.

 

[GregValiant 1,287]

The hint means that the "Bed Temperature" cannot be set on a "per extruder" basis.  If you have a multi-extruder machine all extruders will use the same bed temperature.

The "default" temperature is in the material file as 60°.  That default can be affected by custom settings in a profile.  

This is 5.6.0 with "generic PLA" and my tooltip is different than your screenshot.

 

The Bed Temperature setting I have in my custom PLA profile is 50°.  That is what would appear in the box when that profile is active.  With the "Standard" profile active the bed temperature is 60°.

An over-ride in a custom profile will take precedence.

 

Set Cura up to slice a benchy or calibration cube.  Use the profiles that are producing that 70° result.  Then use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here.  It might show something.

 

I see the same thing as @DivingDuck

From the "generic_pla_175.xml.fdm_material" file it appears that the default is 60°.

"<setting key="heated bed temperature">60</setting>"

 

[MurrayCook 1]

On my ender 3 S1 I have no problems with PLA adhesion I use these temp. settings with good luck.

Bed temp first layer 70C after that 65C.

Hot End temp 210 - 220 depending on the filament brand.

[Slashee_the_Cow 303]

8 minutes ago, MurrayCook said:

On my ender 3 S1 I have no problems with PLA adhesion I use these temp. settings with good luck.

Bed temp first layer 70C after that 65C.

Hot End temp 210 - 220 depending on the filament brand.

It doesn't just depend on the brand, some kinds of PLA tend to require different treatment. Silky PLA, for example, usually has to run 5-10° hotter than normal stuff, often they won't list these differences but a bit of experimentation and you can usually find the best settings. 

 

FWIW, the PLA I use says it supports printing at 210-230° with a bed temperature of 45-60°. I usually run first layer at 215° with the bed at 65°, then knock it down to 210/60 for the rest of the print.

 

70° is an unusually high bed temperature for PLA, considering it can print on an unheated bed. I'm not sure if it would be bad for it (keep it hot so long it can ooze out of shape, for example) but I've never found it necessary.

[GregValiant 1,287]

Every machine is going to be at least a little different.  My printer is on and has been sitting all night  in a room that is 23°C.  The bed temperature reads 21 and the hot end temperature reads 24.

The chances are excellent that all three measurement devices are wrong, but they aren't wrong by much.

 

This is just for comparison purposes...

I run PLA from 205 to 215.  The color does make a difference.

Silkies like it hot or the layer adhesion is really bad.  I've found that printing silkies at 215 moves the layer adhesion rating up from "Really Bad for everything" to "Not quite acceptable for real stuff".

The bed is the Creality glass bed with some sort of coating on it.  I keep it clean and run PLA at 50.

[Slashee_the_Cow 303]

5 hours ago, GregValiant said:

The bed is the Creality glass bed with some sort of coating on it.  I keep it clean and run PLA at 50.

These days (at least on the newer machines, like the E3V2 Neo and the E3V3SE they use... some sort of flexible sheet with a magnetic backing, Creality's website says "PC Spring Steel Sheet", I have no idea if that's just a fancy term for something extremely mundane. What I do know is that it's actually really, really easy to melt a hole in the sheet to the magnetic layer below. One time I did that at the home position and subsequently the ABL would never work again. Right now I have one a bit in from a corner so I'll see if it affects things next time I print something big. Or if I can hassle Creality to send me a new one under warranty. Don't like my chances.

[GregValiant 1,287]

I've got the stock "magnetic" surface sitting under the printer table.  I've got a clip/trip dog I made up that attaches to the bottom left "X" trolley wheel mount and hits the Z endstop switch.  With the clip off I can use the stock build surface and with the clip on I can use the glass.  I much prefer the glass.

[Slashee_the_Cow 303]

19 minutes ago, GregValiant said:

I've got the stock "magnetic" surface sitting under the printer table.  I've got a clip/trip dog I made up that attaches to the bottom left "X" trolley wheel mount and hits the Z endstop switch.  With the clip off I can use the stock build surface and with the clip on I can use the glass.  I much prefer the glass.

Alas, I don't have a choice. Take off the magnetic build plate on the E3V3SE (and also my E3V2Neo) and all you get is a magnetic metal sheet with big holes in it with big screws in them to attach it to the platform.

[GregValiant 1,287]

You might need to have someone fab up a 1/8" aluminum plate to the length and width you require.  

 

You can't just remove the stock build surface and put a glass plate on?  How about just sticking a piece of glass on top of the stock surface?  Heat transfer might be a tad slower (longer heat up time) but it won't be by a lot.