Z tension and setting seem right. but before I get into that…
Ender 3 S1 Pro
Firmware vrs 2.0.8.28 (F4 F404)
50mm calibration cube measures 49.99-50.01
Bed does have 0.2 dish but mesh levels it fine.
Z offset is a bit aggressive because of that bet dish.
Back to your comments.
I can turn the Z screws (dual motors) with effort. I’m not sure I would say it’s significant but it is what I would expect for steppers. The linking belt is tight. Gantry level is difficult because of the dish. My last measure showed it level but today I’m off by 0.12 which is the L/R bed difference at Y0 where I tried to measure so I think I’m still level. Gantry has NO vertical play.
Checked my defaults … Z hop is OFF. I will enable. I assume the others are off as they are hidden. I’m slow to enable advance settings until I need them.
This print completed fine. After layer 250 no more flicking. I need to make refinements so I’ll run it again tomorrow with the Z hop changes and see how it does.
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Slashee_the_Cow 541
Well the obvious setting to change is Travel > Z Hop When Retracted, and I'd probably turn Z Hop Only Over Printed Parts on with it (it'll make it find alternate routes instead of Z hopping where possible). It'd probably help if you shared your theory so we could comment on it or maybe work on it.
I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the printer entirely - you need to make sure your Z offset is just right and that your Z axis control mechanism is at the right tension (if you have a screw, make sure you can - with the printer turned off - grab it with a couple of fingers and twist it a little bit and it shouldn't move, but grab it properly and you should be able to turn it to raise/lower the gantry. And definitely make sure the steps/mm is calibrated correctly for the Z axis. If things are only a little bit off it'll build up slowly over time until you get high enough for it to make a difference.
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