Failed Print at known specific layer.

[FDCW 0]

I tried to change color (Filament change) at layer 15 but the print just ended at that point instead. How do I continue this print. I tried opening the Gcode in a text file to no avail.

I'm running Cura 5.5.0.

 

I was just able to open the Gcode file in Notepad.

 

This is my first time doing this so from here I'm not 100% how to edit the GCODE.

Edited February 16 by FDCW

[GregValiant 1,260]

You have to give us some information to work with here.

• What printer are we talking about?
• Post the gcode file.
• Import your model into Cura
• Set Cura up to slice
• Use the "File | Save Project" command to create a 3mf project file with your settings and the model.
• Post the 3mf file here.

 

[FDCW 0]

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max.

 

My main goal here is to continue this print.

 

CFFFP_Puzzle with removed bottom..3mf CFFFP_Puzzle with removed bottom..gcode

Edited February 16 by FDCW
Added filament change screen capture.

[Slashee_the_Cow 274]

This advice might seem a bit late now, but It's much better to use the Pause at Height post-processing script (because it has more options, and doesn't rely on the printer firmware's filament change behaviour to not be stupid) and just change the filament manually (hold the lever or whatever and pull out the old one, then push the new one in until the right colour starts coming out of your nozzle).

 

Now: I hope... well most importantly that you haven't touched the bed of the printer because if your print has moved around at all, you'll never get it back in at exactly the right spot. Also, if you've left the printer on, that would be super, because then the stepper motors might not have to re-engage. Depending on your printer's homing behaviour, if you have turned it off it will need to home the Z axis which most printers do by moving to roughly the middle of the build plate and touching it, if they have a touch sensor. If your print is where it would do that itself, you have no chance. If it homes itself another way, you should be alright, but having to home itself at all is likely not going to get the head back in the exact right position because most less expensive printers use mechanical switches at an end stop to home and they don't always actuate in quite the same spot, so you might get some layer shift.

 

You'll need to connect your printer to your computer over USB and use a program that communicates with the printer and will allow you to load any gcode file and just run it as-is. Trying to run from the printer's control panel will probably result in it interfering because it think it knows best. OctoPrint can do it, but I've only ever used it as dedicated system (OctoPi) so I have no idea what running it would be like on your regular computer. There are probably some others but I'm not sure I know any off the top of my head, because unless you're running a dedicated server like something running just OctoPrint, printing over USB is mostly a legacy feature from back in the days when printers had basically zero brains of their own and couldn't read gcode from memory so had to be fed line by line.

 

Then you'd need to get down and dirty in the gcode - edit the startup gcode and remove any G0 or G1 commands that have an X or Y parameter (F and E are fine), and if you haven't turned it off, remove the G28 command. If you have, then you'll need to figure out the height of the layer you're starting at (initial layer thickness + (layer_thickness * (layers already printed - 1)) + layer thickness) the last one being that printer moves to the layer height above to account for where it'll be printing, If you're not sure, search the gcode for the M600 command the filament change uses and grab the last Z value from before where it added the pause (it should have left a few comments saying where its code starts).

 

So if you haven't turned it off: remove the G28, don't replace it with anything.

If you have turned it off but however it homes the Z axis won't touch your build, keep the G28

If you have turned it off but it homes the Z axis by touching your build: find the correct Z height as described above above and replace the G28 with:

G92 Z<height goes here>

G28 X Y

 

If there's a G29 in the startup gcode, take that out.

 

Then you just need to delete all the layers before where it paused, except leave the last G0 or G1 line that has a Z value in it, then delete the code for the pause. If it's done right (and the change filament script hasn't messed things up or anything), save the gcode, then hopefully that should resume on the layer you want, in roughly the right place, but even if the code is right, there's no guarantee it won't accidentally induce some layer shift (next layer is slightly different in X and/or Y coordinates to previous layer so they don't line up). Then you need to fire up whatever program you're using that will communicate directly with the printer and get it to print the modified gcode file you just made.

 

I have done this once or twice. It's annoying and it only worked properly once of the twice.

[GregValiant 1,260]

As Slashee points out, continuing an interrupted print isn't easy.  It can be done, but it requires some practice and you don't have time to practice.

Because of inaccuracies in the End Stop switches, if you have to home any axis it likely won't "0" in the exact same position.  That isn't too bad for the Z as you might get one layer that is too thick or too thin (under or over-extruded).  When re-homing the X-Y you can get layer shifts and they can be up to 0.5mm.

IF THE BED HAS COOLED and some pieces have broken loose you have to start over.

 

This file will print on top of what you already have down.  Open it in Notepad and take a look at the "Transition" code.  It moves the Z to 2.4 and syncs the extruder location to where it needs to be to resume.  Start with the color of the letters as there is no pause in this.

You need to make a decision whether to try to save the print, or cut your losses.

GV_Puzzle with removed bottom..gcode

 

 

[FDCW 0]

Unfortunately, I was not present at the time and the printer was turned off, it does not have a Touch sensor.

This seems to be a bit complicated for a few $ of filament. If I was at home I would probably try this but I'm at work so I'll just reprint it.

 

I will try a sample of Pause at height before reprinting the whole thing, thx for the advice.

 

Thank you Slashee_the_Cow

[FDCW 0]

GV, I will try your Gcode and post the results here.

 

The bed is cool but NOTHING moved.

[FDCW 0]

WOW!!! so far so good, I'll repost again when done.

 

Thank you SIR!

[FDCW 0]

So could I have just raised the letters in Cura by measuring the height and print?

[FDCW 0]

It worked perfectly, Thx GV

[GregValiant 1,260]

First thing is to put your thinking cap on.  (I have a nice red and yellow one with a propeller on it.)

You always need a startup gcode.  It won't be exactly the same as your original startup, but it will prep the printer to print.  Temperatures first.

M140

M104

M190

M109

Then you need to decide where you can auto-home.  First thing is to move the Z above the print.  If the printer is off you can do that by hand.

Then you can have some gcode like this...

G28 X Y ; Home only the X and Y

G0 X200 Y200 : Move the nozzle to an area where it can drop down to the build plate to home the Z.  I could see from your gcode file in Cura that your left front corner was open so this wasn't necessary.

G28 Z ; Home the Z in the open area

G0 F1200 Z150 ; Move the Z back up to some height above the print.

Now you need to check the gcode.  The first real XY move will be to the start point of the first extrusion.  Usually it's the last move before a layer change but you need to be sure.

Check the E location.  Was there a retraction that needs to be accounted for?

Use G92 to set the E location.

Last is to drop back down to the working height of the current layer.  That will also come from the existing gcode.  Yours happened to be 2.4

G0 F1200 Z2.4

You can do a Save-As, throw away the first part of the file, insert your transition code, and it should carry on as if nothing had interfered.

 

[FDCW 0]

I lost my thinking cap long ago but with all my 3D printing adventures (at work and at home) I may just be able to print one and use it for what it's intended.

 

I'm far from being any kind of programmer but I understand what you mean, I just need to practice.