On 10/4/2024 at 10:47 PM, gr5 said:I don't do the xy calibration anymore. The printer comes so well built that for most people it's not necessary. I lost my calibration and I just use the defaults of 0 and 0.
Yeah, well, I can't add a +1 on that, mine came totally misaligned, and the tool to align the axles were not in the box, needed to print them on my Prusa, how funny. Almost forgot about that, such a good start with this machine...
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Please contact UltiMaker Support directly for help with this issue.
@Dadkitess - FYI on the UltiMaker S5, the xy calibration is about calibrating the two different extruders with respect to each other. In my experience the default, nominal values work great such that when you switch to the other filament, the printer prints perfectly in the correct location. If you have a misalignment it might print a support material in the same position as your part material.
There's also a Z calibration step to make sure the two nozzles are the exact same height and that is automated and either works perfectly or fails completely and halts before starting the print.
Yeah it was just a reaction to the "so well built".
I just reread your post 3 posts above and realize you were talking about an S5 where I thought you were talking about a Prusa but I see now you used the Prusa to print an alignment part. I have those alignment parts but I don't use them. They are only barely helpful because you can just push the blocks all the way to one side to align them. But sometimes it's hard to get a screwdriver into the setscrew. But still I just then move the head out a bit and both seem to usually move together. Anyway - sorry your printer didn't come with the alignment tools and mine did but I chose not to use them when I had to align one time years ago. Oh - you can also just use some blocks of wood I guess as spacers as long as both blocks of wood are the same thickness.
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On 10/4/2024 at 4:47 PM, gr5 said:I don't do the xy calibration anymore. The printer comes so well built that for most people it's not necessary. I lost my calibration and I just use the defaults of 0 and 0.
So when you do a print and it touches with the right nozzle, watch it carefully it should then switch to the left nozzle and do the same movements. It should actually touch the glass (sometimes it doesn't - take note). then it should do up to about 24 calibration points - fewer if you have a small print - if your print is small enough it might do say only 9 points. Does it get to this step?
Then it heats up the bed and printcores. Now they were already hot before the bed leveling procedure but it turns off all power to heaters during the calibration to keep from that electronic noise from messing up the bed leveling. So expect a delay at this point by up to 5 minutes for PLA and 10 minutes for high temp materials like ABS.
I can't help you with the xy cal as I don't know the failure modes well but I have seen many failure modes on the leveling.
Also do you have the air manager (top cover thing with filter and fan) or the material station (box under the printer that holds up to I think 6 spools)?
So it does do the leveling with both nozzles when I start a print. Then, as you stated, it moves the head to the front and lowers the bed a little so it can head the nozzle back up. After it completes the preheat the screen updates and says the print is starting and the timer pops up but then the head and bed don't move. They stay in place for a while until the system gives up and the bed fully lowers and it gives me the error "An unexpected error has occurred in the motion controller. Restore to default settings." But no matter how many times I reset it the printer does the same thing. So I think it has to be some kind of software issue if I am not mistaken.
So you left out a very key piece of information. When it give that error "an unexpected..." it includes a number and a URL. I'd like to know the number so I can go to ultimaker.com/ERXXX where XXX is the number and get a hint to the problem.
I'm thinking there is a problem with a cable. Either the cable that goes to the print head (which definitely can pull free internally inside the head) or maybe the cable that goes to the motion controller board (I think it's a USB cable).
If you don't know the number, I'd first try to reseat the cable to the print head as it takes literally about 1 minute once you find the right tool. Be careful not to break the connector - you don't just pull on it - there's a latch as shown in the images:
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667411318111
That's for the UM3 but you will not be able to tell the difference. Same connector, same screws, same cable - but the print head is about 10% larger. Look at those 6 images in the "reseating the print head cable" section. Even just leaving the connector connected but pushing down on it a little and also sliding the cable closer to the connector and I've also put in a paper shim around the cable so it stays better in place. Even just doing that is usually enough. So you probably don't even have to remove the cable. Just press it back in a little.
On the other hand it may be the cable to the motion controller? Much less likely to fail in general but I need to know the ERXXX number to have an idea of what exactly is failing.
You can also contact ultimaker support here but they will also want to know the ERXXX number and they will want to know the serial number. phone and email support is free even after the warranty expires. It's just parts and shipping that are not free if the warranty ran out.
On 10/13/2024 at 7:42 AM, gr5 said:So you left out a very key piece of information. When it give that error "an unexpected..." it includes a number and a URL. I'd like to know the number so I can go to ultimaker.com/ERXXX where XXX is the number and get a hint to the problem.
I'm thinking there is a problem with a cable. Either the cable that goes to the print head (which definitely can pull free internally inside the head) or maybe the cable that goes to the motion controller board (I think it's a USB cable).
If you don't know the number, I'd first try to reseat the cable to the print head as it takes literally about 1 minute once you find the right tool. Be careful not to break the connector - you don't just pull on it - there's a latch as shown in the images:
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667411318111
That's for the UM3 but you will not be able to tell the difference. Same connector, same screws, same cable - but the print head is about 10% larger. Look at those 6 images in the "reseating the print head cable" section. Even just leaving the connector connected but pushing down on it a little and also sliding the cable closer to the connector and I've also put in a paper shim around the cable so it stays better in place. Even just doing that is usually enough. So you probably don't even have to remove the cable. Just press it back in a little.
On the other hand it may be the cable to the motion controller? Much less likely to fail in general but I need to know the ERXXX number to have an idea of what exactly is failing.
I tried unplugging and plugging back in those wires carefully and followed the link that you sent (thank you for those because it definitely prevented me from doing serious damage to the head), but I am still getting the same error. It does not give me an error code. It just states exactly what I said and wants a reboot that doesn't fix the issue. I uploaded the screen picture to help show the error. I also went ahead and took the bottom off and checked all the wire connections to what I believe is the motherboard/motion controller. (I say both because I think that is what the other forms I looked at said) Is there anything I am missing? I appreciate your help so far, but I think I tried everything that you have said so far. I am sorry there is not an easy error code to look up, but there is no link or number that comes up on the screen that comes up after a failed print. I think I can eliminate a bad wire because I checked most if not all of them and they were secure. Do you think one of my parts is fried?
Please contact support for further assistance.
I have no idea. I'd click that link I gave you for creating a customer support ticket.
Meanwhile if you have the time I'd look at all the log files. Are you good with linux? If so you can ssh into the printer. You have to get it into developer mode in the menus on the printer first. Does it give this error right when you boot or are you able to do a few things?
Actually you can get the log files by just putting in a flash drive and there is a menu option to copy all the logs onto the flash drive then you can look at the most recent errors.
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gr5 2,240
I don't do the xy calibration anymore. The printer comes so well built that for most people it's not necessary. I lost my calibration and I just use the defaults of 0 and 0.
So when you do a print and it touches with the right nozzle, watch it carefully it should then switch to the left nozzle and do the same movements. It should actually touch the glass (sometimes it doesn't - take note). then it should do up to about 24 calibration points - fewer if you have a small print - if your print is small enough it might do say only 9 points. Does it get to this step?
Then it heats up the bed and printcores. Now they were already hot before the bed leveling procedure but it turns off all power to heaters during the calibration to keep from that electronic noise from messing up the bed leveling. So expect a delay at this point by up to 5 minutes for PLA and 10 minutes for high temp materials like ABS.
I can't help you with the xy cal as I don't know the failure modes well but I have seen many failure modes on the leveling.
Also do you have the air manager (top cover thing with filter and fan) or the material station (box under the printer that holds up to I think 6 spools)?
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