McMaster-Carr part numbers for cleaning and calibration tools

[stevegt 1]

In case anyone in the States is interested in exact part numbers, I just put in the following order to McMaster Carr, for maintaining my new UM2. I based these choices on discussion in other threads, and I should add a disclaimer that I haven't used any of these myself yet. For instance, @MadOverlord mentions the cheaper version of these drill bits over in http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1932-new-user-tremendous-clogging-problems/?p=18892. I decided to get the more expensive 1/8" shank bits because they'd be harder to lose.

The drill bits and rods are for cleaning out the nozzle, the pin vise is for holding the drill bits, the brass scraper is for part removal, and the feeler gauges are for more precise bed leveling and first-layer height setting. (I opted for plastic over metal feeler gauges to limit scratching of the nozzle tip.)

I'll check in here with different part numbers if I change my mind about any of these choices later, or have anything to add.

 

2841A91     Carbide Small-Diameter Drill Bit with 1/8" Shank, 1/64", 1-1/2" Overall Length, .27" Drill Depth    
2841A84     Carbide Small-Diameter Drill Bit with 1/8" Shank, #79, 1-1/2" Overall Length, .27" Drill Depth  
2841A85     Carbide Small-Diameter Drill Bit with 1/8" Shank, #80, 1-1/2" Overall Length, .27" Drill Depth  
3009A111    High-Speed M2 Tool Steel, Hardened Undersized Rod, 0.0156" Diameter, 3/4" L 
3009A297    High-Speed M2 Tool Steel, Hardened Undersized Rod, 0.0145" Diameter, 3/4" L 
3009A298    High-Speed M2 Tool Steel, Hardened Undersized Rod, 0.0135" Diameter, 3/4" L 
7112A2      Comfort-Grip Swivel-Handle Pin Vise, 0" - 0.125" Opening Range
7114A11     Nonsparking Brass Scraper, 1-1/4" Wide X 3-1/4" Long Blade, Nylon Handle
21035A13    Plastic Color-Coded Feeler Thickness Gauge, 12" Long, .002" Thick, Red, Packs of 5  
21035A11    Plastic Color-Coded Feeler Thickness Gauge, 12" Long, .001" Thick, Amber, Packs of 5    
21035A15    Plastic Color-Coded Feeler Thickness Gauge, 12" Long, .004" Thick, Tan, Packs of 5  

 

[anon4321 16]

Won't the plastic melt if the tip is hot? I understand the desire to not scratch the tip but I often abort prints when the level looks like it needs to be adjusted and I wouldn't want to wait for the extruder to cool before adjusting.

 

[mastory 44]

I wouldnt hesitate to use steel feelers. They are polished smooth and normally have rounded edges. They are made that way because they are intended to make precise adjustments to all sorts of machinery. Any sold by mcmaster should be ok. Very low chance of causing harm.

[stevegt 1]

Okay, the hot use case makes sense. McMaster also has brass feeler gauges -- 20385A31, 20385A32, and 20385A34 for .001", .002", and .004" respectively. About the same cost as steel. Just added them to my next order.

So far I'm thinking the pin vise isn't needed for the drill bits -- the 1/8" shank on the bits looks like more than enough to grip, and they look real easy to break with any but the gentlest of handling.

The rods, on the other hand, at 3/4" long, are really just pins -- nearly microscopic, probably useless without the pin vise.

 

[mastory 44]

A good thing about the small drill bits in a pin vise is that you can chuck them up with only just enough shank exposed from the pin vise. This helps prevent breakage. I drilled a couple of new nozzles this way. Didnt break a drill yet....

[stevegt 1]

Checking in... So far I haven't managed to melt the plastic feeler gauges. The manufacturer says they're "polyester with max. operating temp of 200F", but I haven't paid any attention to the temperature and they're surviving fine. They're cheap, come in packs of 5, and I haven't thrown away the first one of each pack yet.

The thing I'm liking about the polyester versus metal feelers is the flexibility -- they're 12" long, lay flat on the bed, and are easy to scoot under the nozzle and sense friction.

Steve