tools for removing parts from platform

[dbotos 5]

In another thread, someone mentioned using an artist's palette knife for part removal from the platform. I knew my wife had one, but neither she nor I could find it. I went downstairs to my toolbox and found a double-ended stainless steel laboratory spatula. Both ends are flat and approximately 10 x 50 mm (the dimensions of each flat portion). The whole thing is about 175 mm (7 inches) long. It seems to work very well for removing parts. It looks like the middle one in this picture:

Another idea would be to buy a cheap metal kitchen spatula at a "dollar" store or second-hand store:

Maybe something without slots in case you wanted to cut it to make the blade narrower.

I think the key criteria for a removal tool are:

1) thin (so it can get in between the part and platform and not put a lot of stress on the part as would happen with a thicker tool)

2) edges of tool tapered, but not sharp (so it can get in between, but not dig into the platform or the part)

3) strong (so it doesn't bend the tool) (stainless steel seems like an ideal material)

4) decent length handle (so you can reach the middle of the platform with your hand being outside the platform)

5) low friction (can polish the stainless with metal polish)

What else have people had good luck with for removing parts?

[italianmaxx 0]

Actually I'm using a simple putty/plaster spatula like the ones used by masons. It costs half a dollar ( a cheap one) and work very well. Before I used a hobby knyfe but it dig into the tape layer.

Just have patuence to find a good spot to get under the printed part.

[owen 19]

I use a cheap bread and butter knife.

The type with a thin flexible blade and a plastic handle.

It's great for scrapeing the strings off parts as well.

[mr_seeker 0]

Actually I'm using a simple putty/plaster spatula like the ones used by masons. It costs half a dollar ( a cheap one) and work very well. Before I used a hobby knyfe but it dig into the tape layer.

Just have patuence to find a good spot to get under the printed part.

Same, but most of the time I just rip off the blue tape...

[italianmaxx 0]

I stopped to use blue tape. here in italy we have a very common white/cream paper tape just like the blue one but very cheap andvery wide (2inches is common). It costs a fraction of the 3m blue tape and works like a charm. you only need 2 layers of tape snd a good rub of alcohol ti make it a perfect bed. the spatula don' t cause lot of damage and i use the same tape for several prints.

[dbotos 5]

Actually I'm using a simple putty/plaster spatula like the ones used by masons. It costs half a dollar ( a cheap one) and work very well. Before I used a hobby knyfe but it dig into the tape layer.

Just have patuence to find a good spot to get under the printed part.

Is it one of the plastic type like this?

Or is it metal?

When I think of masonry, I think of a tool like this:

[dbotos 5]

I stopped to use blue tape. here in italy we have a very common white/cream paper tape just like the blue one but very cheap andvery wide (2inches is common). It costs a fraction of the 3m blue tape and works like a charm. you only need 2 layers of tape snd a good rub of alcohol ti make it a perfect bed. the spatula don' t cause lot of damage and i use the same tape for several prints.

I think you are referring to standard masking tape like this:

The blue tape is just a fancier version of this and supposed to be better for painting (so paint does not get under the edges). I will have to try some of the standard tape and see how it does.

[italianmaxx 0]

well, the mason's spatula is this one

it is quite flexible and not sharp but you have to be careful with the corners, they can break the tape.

and the white masking tape is exaclty that one you showed in the pic. I think is way better of the blue tape, but it is mandatory to put on the bed 2 layers (if you were used to just one layer check again the Z) and after having placed it you have to rub it with paper and alcohol, just a little.

[dbotos 5]

Cool. You might be able to round off the corners of that spatula with a belt sander, Dremel, or die grinder. Just keep to the edges and deburr with something fine like a deburring wheel or a rubberized abrasive bit (Cratex).

[rock500 0]

I use this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13045 works great at getting under a print.

[Daid 306]

I was at the shop yesterday to get new tape (ran out of the blue stuff). And the home brand from the Gamma (dutch) seems to work very well.

However, I also picked up a roll of Tesa flexible masking tape. This stuff has a lot of profile, and PLA sticks on it like crazy. A bit too crazy. However, it has a use, because it sticks to the object so much better then the bed, it will come off with your object. But the object will have stuck to the bed fine.

Now you just need to get the tape from the object, which I did by throwing the object in water over night, after that I could scrape the tape right off the object.

This tape might not be useful for every print, as it leaves a very rough finish at the bottom. But it can be useful to get the tricky prints to stick.