Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Sign in to follow this  
dbotos

tools for removing parts from platform

Recommended Posts

In another thread, someone mentioned using an artist's palette knife for part removal from the platform. I knew my wife had one, but neither she nor I could find it. I went downstairs to my toolbox and found a double-ended stainless steel laboratory spatula. Both ends are flat and approximately 10 x 50 mm (the dimensions of each flat portion). The whole thing is about 175 mm (7 inches) long. It seems to work very well for removing parts. It looks like the middle one in this picture:

spatula2.jpg

Another idea would be to buy a cheap metal kitchen spatula at a "dollar" store or second-hand store:

G69_Metal_Spatula.jpg

Maybe something without slots in case you wanted to cut it to make the blade narrower.

I think the key criteria for a removal tool are:

1) thin (so it can get in between the part and platform and not put a lot of stress on the part as would happen with a thicker tool)

2) edges of tool tapered, but not sharp (so it can get in between, but not dig into the platform or the part)

3) strong (so it doesn't bend the tool) (stainless steel seems like an ideal material)

4) decent length handle (so you can reach the middle of the platform with your hand being outside the platform)

5) low friction (can polish the stainless with metal polish)

What else have people had good luck with for removing parts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Actually I'm using a simple putty/plaster spatula like the ones used by masons. It costs half a dollar ( a cheap one) and work very well. Before I used a hobby knyfe but it dig into the tape layer.

Just have patuence to find a good spot to get under the printed part.

Same, but most of the time I just rip off the blue tape...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I stopped to use blue tape. here in italy we have a very common white/cream paper tape just like the blue one but very cheap andvery wide (2inches is common). It costs a fraction of the 3m blue tape and works like a charm. you only need 2 layers of tape snd a good rub of alcohol ti make it a perfect bed. the spatula don' t cause lot of damage and i use the same tape for several prints.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Actually I'm using a simple putty/plaster spatula like the ones used by masons. It costs half a dollar ( a cheap one) and work very well. Before I used a hobby knyfe but it dig into the tape layer.

Just have patuence to find a good spot to get under the printed part.

Is it one of the plastic type like this?

260174_front200.jpg

Or is it metal?

When I think of masonry, I think of a tool like this:

6937607781749lg.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I stopped to use blue tape. here in italy we have a very common white/cream paper tape just like the blue one but very cheap andvery wide (2inches is common). It costs a fraction of the 3m blue tape and works like a charm. you only need 2 layers of tape snd a good rub of alcohol ti make it a perfect bed. the spatula don' t cause lot of damage and i use the same tape for several prints.

I think you are referring to standard masking tape like this:

41hFBnxMyQL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

The blue tape is just a fancier version of this and supposed to be better for painting (so paint does not get under the edges). I will have to try some of the standard tape and see how it does.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well, the mason's spatula is this one

spatola1.JPG

it is quite flexible and not sharp but you have to be careful with the corners, they can break the tape.

and the white masking tape is exaclty that one you showed in the pic. I think is way better of the blue tape, but it is mandatory to put on the bed 2 layers (if you were used to just one layer check again the Z) and after having placed it you have to rub it with paper and alcohol, just a little.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was at the shop yesterday to get new tape (ran out of the blue stuff). And the home brand from the Gamma (dutch) seems to work very well.

However, I also picked up a roll of Tesa flexible masking tape. This stuff has a lot of profile, and PLA sticks on it like crazy. A bit too crazy. However, it has a use, because it sticks to the object so much better then the bed, it will come off with your object. But the object will have stuck to the bed fine.

Now you just need to get the tape from the object, which I did by throwing the object in water over night, after that I could scrape the tape right off the object.

This tape might not be useful for every print, as it leaves a very rough finish at the bottom. But it can be useful to get the tricky prints to stick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Our picks

    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!