Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Sign in to follow this  
tommy-gunn

Bottom layer with new nozzle

Recommended Posts

The easiest way is to raise the bed a tiny amount. Right now your bed is probably too far from the nozzle and so the filament isn't getting squished enough. It also helps to have the filament extra hot for the first layer (240C) to allow it to flow well. It even helps to heat the bed with a blow drier even by only 20 degrees F. This allows the plastic to flow better.

But at some point you can't do anything about it except for post processing.

You can remelt the part a bit after you remove it, or you can sand-prime-paint it or you can use a vapor of THF or ethyl acetate (for PLA).

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I print with heat bed 65c

Nozzle is 215c so there is no setting to make lines closer together or future apart? On the layers? Yes I have a goo squish if it squished flat any more I would get a jam.

What is the recommend setting for .35 nozzle

I used to get great prints with .4 nozzle

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Raising temp to 240C just for the first layer helps quite a bit - try that also. You can then lower it again for the second layer.

A setting? Well you can tell the printer to do .35mm shell. This will put the traces .35mm apart instead of .4mm apart. It will also extrude less plastic - it will basically act like you have a .35mm nozzle. Changing the nozzle size doesn't always affect the amount of material to extrude or the distance between fill lines - changing shell does. Not sure exactly why. Anyway this will certainly put the lines closer together but it will also give you very thin walls. Or you can do .35mm nozzle and .7mm walls (or any multiple of .35) and you will get thicker walls and still get lines close together in the infill.

I don't recommend this.

The problem is that leveling is incredibly sensitive to the gaps between lines. For example if your bottom layer height is .1mm (thickness of paper) and you do accuracy .03mm (that's hard to do!!!) then you will get a 30% error which is quite a big gap (or over extrusion) between lines on bottom layer.

So the first thing to do is make the bottom layer .3mm thick (3X less sensitive to leveling). The second thing to do is as it is printing the bottom layer - if the lines are too far apart, turn the screws slightly until it's looking good. Then cancel the print and start over.

You can alternatively adjust the "flow" parameter but this has a huge delay - it's about 10 to 20 lines in the firmware buffer so if you make a change you have to wait for 20 lines to go down or so before you see the result of your change.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Our picks

    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!