I agree with Sander. Print with a lower bed temperature and make sure the fans come on full blast quickly. You can change the height at which the fans turn on in the expert settings. I usually leave it at 1mm.
I agree with Sander. Print with a lower bed temperature and make sure the fans come on full blast quickly. You can change the height at which the fans turn on in the expert settings. I usually leave it at 1mm.
I have a hard time printing concentric overhangs like the one on your piece. Definitely try altering the temp of the build plate; if that doesn't work try printing with a thicker layer resolution. Thicker layers for me seem to do better on overhangs like the one in your photo. If that still doesn't work you may need to cut the model in half and glue together afterwards.
Thanks for your quick answers!!!!
I have an Ultimaker 2, with heated bed,etc..
It's the 3m blue tape better than the glue stick layer?
I will try lowering the bed temp and using the fans in a better way.
Thanks again!!
The comment about using tape was if you decided to try turning the heat off completely. The blue tape will then help the part stick properly to the bed (wipe it down with alcohol if it doesn't stick to get rid of the waxy layer on top of the tape). Don't use the tape if you heat the bed up.
I know I read some people printed on a cool bed without tape as well but I can't remember what they used instead.
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SandervG 1,521
Do you print on an Ultimaker Original or Ultimaker 2?
If you have a heated bed it may be a good idea to lower the temperature or leave it turned off completely.
The heath can make the layers sag a little bit and cause what you are seeing..
On the Ultimaker 2 you can also print with blue M3-tape.
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