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Do the servos move? Does the head heat up? If not then ignore everything below:
I had this problem. Very easy to fix. It's usually the connection to the plate - to the bed. It could also be underneath the larger panel of the printer.
Remove the glass (don't cut yourself - use pliers on the clips).
Remove the 3 leveling screws. Remove the 2 screws holding the black wire in the back. Take the bed apart (there maybe be another screw but I don't think so.
Inspect the cable connecion to the board. The larger 2 wires are for the heater. The smaller 2 are for the sensor. Pull gently on the larger wires to see if one is loose. If they seem fine unscrew the 4 wires and remove the heater board and reflow the solder for the two connections for the heater. You need a soldering iron. Put the wires back in and test it just hanging like this. If still broken time to check underneath the UM. Or check the voltage with a voltmeter at this end of the wiring and on the plate.
In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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Do the servos move? Does the head heat up? If not then ignore everything below:
I had this problem. Very easy to fix. It's usually the connection to the plate - to the bed. It could also be underneath the larger panel of the printer.
Remove the glass (don't cut yourself - use pliers on the clips).
Remove the 3 leveling screws. Remove the 2 screws holding the black wire in the back. Take the bed apart (there maybe be another screw but I don't think so.
Inspect the cable connecion to the board. The larger 2 wires are for the heater. The smaller 2 are for the sensor. Pull gently on the larger wires to see if one is loose. If they seem fine unscrew the 4 wires and remove the heater board and reflow the solder for the two connections for the heater. You need a soldering iron. Put the wires back in and test it just hanging like this. If still broken time to check underneath the UM. Or check the voltage with a voltmeter at this end of the wiring and on the plate.
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