the Owen fan:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13625
I missed that one.. I'll have to print it!
One of my very, very few complaints about the UM is that the stock fan setup there aims the air a couple inches to the left of the nozzle..
the Owen fan:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13625
I missed that one.. I'll have to print it!
One of my very, very few complaints about the UM is that the stock fan setup there aims the air a couple inches to the left of the nozzle..
My stock fan shroud fell apart on the 3th print... it's the only part in the kit that I found bad really.One of my very, very few complaints about the UM is that the stock fan setup there aims the air a couple inches to the left of the nozzle..
My stock fan shroud fell apart on the 3th print... it's the only part in the kit that I found bad really.One of my very, very few complaints about the UM is that the stock fan setup there aims the air a couple inches to the left of the nozzle..
did you email the ultimaker guys about the problem.
was it just a cheap fan case or was it detroyed from vibration ?
Ian
in just looked at ownes design, that looks really brilliant !
can i ask you guys, is solidworks used for modeling these products ?
I am thinking maybe solidworkds might be the best realistic software for developing solid ultimaker models.
best wishes.
Ian
Done in Google Sketchup which is free. It was time consuming but at least possible in Sketchup.
I like and use Openscad a lot but this type of thing would be very hard (for me at least) to do in Openscad.
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joergen 2
I prefer to just have one fan on the print head, and my current one is the Owen fan:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13625
Additional fans just add weight.
Cooling is important is several occasions:
- small layers and small islands that have no time to cool between layers (2x2cm and smaller)
- thick and fast layers (thicker than 0.25mm), the remaining heat in the deposited plasic isn't removed fast enough, so the plastic stays longer in the elastic phase. this makes a good bond with the previous layer, but messes up the geometry. you see how the plastic stays rubbery when the head moves over it: not good.
the simplest solution is using additional fans: I have a big desk fan that I use for faster prints, or I use 100mm 12V computer fans that are simply placed on the print bed to add custom cooling to a certain area (since every print is different). (I have also added a 12V supply bus daughter board to the UM, to add additional fans where I need them).
In the worst case scenario, I have my UM standing right in front of my window air conditioner, which can blast a lot of really cold air onto the print (although that sounds like overkill).
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