Also please specify what country you live in for you location settings as advice often varies by country (or is AA a country I don't know about)? And specify if you have UM Original or UM2.
Also please specify what country you live in for you location settings as advice often varies by country (or is AA a country I don't know about)? And specify if you have UM Original or UM2.
Also please specify what country you live in for you location settings as advice often varies by country (or is AA a country I don't know about)? And specify if you have UM Original or UM2.
Sorry, the pictures should be there now. Apparently upload got interrupted.
I'm in the USA and have the UM2.
I tried making some more prints this very chilly morning, and nothing was adhering to the baseplate even with glue right before nozzle finished heating up. The strands would detach then dance around from the cooling drafts.
Additionally, when the nozzle made a jump during the base construction, the excess PLA would insta-cool to solid as the nozzle rose, then when it jumped in x-y it would yank the whole thing off the baseplate.
I found out about the exciting functions available through the LCD screen. I monitored the nozzle temp, and although set at 210C, hovered around 204C. I think this is due to the cold draft room.
I made these changes:
Gaffer (grip's) tape on build plate
Nozzle set increased to 220C
Baseplate increased from 60C to 80C (gaffer is thick)
Its looking better already, will report back.
In my current print I was getting some pin holing diamond shape like in
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5375-top-layers-not-touching-um2/page-10
Nozzle temp is hovering around 215, ultimaker white. I increased material flow to 110%, it seems much better.
For bed temperature, what does hotter temp do for PLA?
Hot temp => Better adhesion but more cooling warp?
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gr5 2,069
I really need to see a picture of your first layer.
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