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UM2 - no motor movement - SOLVED

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First, please pardon my bad english.

I have the following problem with my new UM2:

After unpacking and installing I got till the first run wizzard.

At step 4/21, as I understand it, the Hot-End should move to the middle of the bed and I should be able to move the bed with the rotating knob.

In my case, nothing happens.

None of the motors does one single step or even a noise.

Only things that work are the lights, the middle fan at the hot end and the display.

I checked the wiring at the mainboard and it looks ok.

Any idea what I could try next?

Thanks, druckernoob


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I'm not familiar with the first run wizard since if I ever ran it then it was probably a year ago. There is a relay, K1 that can be "sticky". If the relay doesn't close then everything has power except for the following:

4 stepper motors, nozzle heat, bed heat.

I had a problem with this relay. If I turned the machine off for an hour and turned it back on the relay would work. If the machine was warm and I turned it off and on again it would *not* work.

My fix was to give it a tap. The larger cover underneath the UM2 is easily removed by removing only 2 screws. I recommend you do this just to do the same test I did. The fix is to get a new white PCB but it's important to make sure you definitely have this problem. Here is a video demonstrating the temporary fix:


Remember - this is only one possibility. There are other possible problems.


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Hi gr5.

This seems to be exactly my issue.

K1 is the big white block beside the connector-cable.

When I turn on the UM, I can't hear or feel it switch.

Unfortunaly, tapping does't help.

And I have only one green light on the board after switching power on.

Sorry, I'm not familar with this forum-software - How can I insert pictures in my posts?

Thanks, druckernoob


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I don't think you get the red lights until you try to turn the heat on. So it does seem like the same problem but it might not be. The best test is to measure each of the pins of K1. When it is supposed to be on (always) the coil pins should have at least 2 volts across it. Probably 3 or 5 volts. Then it should conduct the 24V from somewhere to somewhere else. You really need to know how to use a multimeter and read schematics to be sure this is the exact issue. If it is then it's okay to "jump out" the relay as it isn't used yet. The idea was to hook up safety equipment to it (fire alarm? kill switch?) but that never happened. Yet. If you know how to read schematics it is here:

ULTIMAKER 2 SCHEMATIC - click "raw":



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Thanks again gr5.

I'm just mechanical engineer :cool:, but I think this shouln't be impossible.

On the 5th page of the linked document I see K1 with the Pins 1,C,2,NO,NC.

On page 9 I see K1 with the Pins 1,2,3,4,5.

As I understand it, 1 and 2 are the coil-pins, C is 4, NO is 3 (+24V), and NC is 5 (empty).

Between 1 and 2 I get about 68 Ohms (all switched off), so the coil should be ok.

Ok, pin 2 is ground and (power switched on) I measure 24V between 2 and NO, 0V between 2 and NC, and 0V between 2 and C.

Looks for me as if the relay didn't switch, just as you expected.

Between 1 and 2 I only get about 0.2V. I think the relay is nearly not driven.

As I understand you, I should try to set a jumper between NO and C?

I already got a ticket from Support, but I would just like to understand what happens here.

Greets, druckernoob


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Sounds right. Here is my repair. Doing what I did is safe as if the relay *does* close it won't hurt anything. You could test this by holding a wire across these 2 points while someone else tries to move a servo with the menu or something.



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