Here is how to calibrate the nozzles, just like Neotko said:
http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Dual_Extrusion:_Calibrate
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Here is how to calibrate the nozzles, just like Neotko said:
http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Dual_Extrusion:_Calibrate
Me, I turn just the metal screw on the head...
this is causing it to leak :/Me, I turn just the metal screw on the head...
There's a simple solution for the head heigh if the Ultimaker method doesn't work for you.
Get a pen, cut the spring in half and place it on the upper part of the aluminum peek holder (the one that it's 4mm tall and has 8mm tall because the screw areas. I just did yesterday on my mod to allow me adjust 2 heads that have 0.7 different height (probably because one peek has many hours and the other it's brand new). This way, with the springs you can do a more selective tension adjustment by using the upper screws. But for UMO standard head you should add 4 springs, since you don't want the heads to have a bad angle. If the springs you use are 'too tall' you can cut them a bit.
BTW I have not tried this on standard UMO dual extrusion, I done it on my working progress magnet changer based on the idea and designs of Foehnsturm -> Link to the forum post
Anyhow if you unscrew the tube/nozzle yes, it will leak for sure.
EDIT: Don't try this on the standard UMO head block. The only way to make it work it's by adding something to keep the preasure of the screw... It's hard to explain, but if you put the springs where I said it will make the ptfe isolator to move and that will make a leak (inside the peek). So to have perfect adjust on dual heads (on the kit experimental) you can only play with the upper screws. The springs could work, but doing more changes than what I said.
Edited by Guest
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neotko 1,417
I think on the vimeo assembly video they explain to use the upper screws to change the alignment
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