Daid,
I saw your TITAN Design, looks really good. When will you release the designs?
Do you know where I can find the coupling for the Z-axis?
Daid,
I saw your TITAN Design, looks really good. When will you release the designs?
Do you know where I can find the coupling for the Z-axis?
My TITAN design is already on github, but it's unfinished (no extruder, Z stage unfinished). I'm testing out the Z stage right now. It's unfinished and very experimental right now.
One of my bearings keeps dropping out. So I need to secure that one. I realized the other day that there is not enough room for the motor-Y belt going up. And the Z stage is depending on gravity to move down but that might not work, as it does not seem to run fully smooth.
I also ran out of M3 screws before I could assemble everything I have, so I need to source more of those.
Short version: Do not attempt to build a TITAN unless you are willing to spend a lot of time changing and fixing things. It's my play machine, not a finished design.
Nice to see its coming along
Here are the parts i need to fill in on my long excel spreadsheet... any ideas?
- Z Drive nut
- Z Axis coupler
- Resiliert coupling
- Set screw
The Z coupler needs to go from 5mm to the Z screw, I've seen shops sell them, but they are not cheap. The Z drive nut is a custom machined part as far as I know.
Not sure what those other 2 parts are.
I would be led to believe that the resiliert coupling is synonymous with the Z-axis coupler. It seems that somebody misspelled resilient (although it's not actually a resilient coupler either unless you like really stiff ones ).
The set screws are probably the ones that go into the couplers and pulleys to lock them.
The drive nut is a bronze leadscrew nut (to go with the leadscrew used obviously), I'm not sure if you can get them with the flats machined in them, but I have seen round and square ones that you can buy.
The turndown on the leadscrew also won't come on any stock part, you'll probably have to get that done or use another driving method.
I'm using the BOM from kitbom,
http://www.kitbom.com/kitbom/ultimaker-rev-3
I have no idea where they got it from, I think its user submited, so some things are a bit wierd
Also FYI, the kit has long time stopped shipping square nuts. Normal hex nuts work just as good, and there are a few places where you cannot use square nuts. So using hex nuts everywhere is easier.
What sort of Endstops should I use?
The kit ships with switches like these:
http://www.reichelt.de/Schnappschalter- ... a139cf72a4
However, for the Z switch, some people prefer to remove the metal lever. As this increases precision.
Thank You Daid
Just to confirm..
300MXL & 100MXL Belts
20XML Pulleys?
Is that correct?
I think there where some problems with ordering belts, as different suppliers use different numbering schemes. And I think using 298MXL or 297MXL belts was the best option.
But the belts from Ultimaker have 240MXL written on them. See: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=621
J4ysen,
I looked at the BOM that you linked to. It is pretty sparse on information. It lists qty's and part names and nothing else. No manufacturers or part numbers as far as I can tell. If you have done some foot work on manufacturers and part numbers, please share them. I and others are particularly interested in the heater element and the thermistor.
Thanks,
Matt
It also lists the wrong kind of M3 screws I think. It list "socket cap" screws, which are "DIN 912", but what is supplied with the kit are "socket button head" screws, type: "ISO 7380".
Using the ISO/DIN numbers makes it much easier to find the correct screws. I got some great help on #reprap yesterday to track down these types of screws. As I needed them for my TITAN.
EDIT: Oh, and I think the heater&thermocouple are custom parts. Best just order them from UM, or use slightly different ones. You could replace the whole hotend with a J-Head hotend or another type of hotend. (just type "hotend?" on #reprap, and you'll get a whole list of possible hotends)
How is this coming along? I just bought the laser cut wooden parts and will be following along or trying to help round out this Bill of Material.
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Daid 306
It's this part:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/6147759950/
You could also use 2 small spacers.
The rev3 lasercut files are on thingiverse.
There are a bunch of custom machined parts in the Ultimaker, so those might be hard to source elsewhere. But, yes, I think you can save a few 100 bucks by self sourcing it. You could save even more money by building a prusa mendel, or even more by building a self sourced printrbot (or the Wallace as it's also called).
It's all a question of what you want. For the UM price, you get quality parts and good support. Not to mention you fund their research into upgrades and new machines.
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