Jump to content

Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help


Recommended Posts

Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

Hey Everyone :D

As soon as i looked at the ultimaker price, :shock: i was imediatly put off buying it :O , instead i have made a list of every single part :idea: . I will share this when I am done and sure that it covers every component needed, and also where i can get them. I have a few questions... :?:

- There's a Part for the extrusion head called "Tiny Transparent acrylic"

- What's the difference between rev 2, and rev 3 (I know that the slider rod size is changed to 6mm in rev 3)

- Where are the Laser cut design files for rev3?]

Thanks :)

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    It's this part:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/6147759950/

    You could also use 2 small spacers.

    The rev3 lasercut files are on thingiverse.

    There are a bunch of custom machined parts in the Ultimaker, so those might be hard to source elsewhere. But, yes, I think you can save a few 100 bucks by self sourcing it. You could save even more money by building a prusa mendel, or even more by building a self sourced printrbot (or the Wallace as it's also called).

    It's all a question of what you want. For the UM price, you get quality parts and good support. Not to mention you fund their research into upgrades and new machines.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    Daid,

    I saw your TITAN Design, looks really good. When will you release the designs?

    Do you know where I can find the coupling for the Z-axis?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    My TITAN design is already on github, but it's unfinished (no extruder, Z stage unfinished). I'm testing out the Z stage right now. It's unfinished and very experimental right now.

    One of my bearings keeps dropping out. So I need to secure that one. I realized the other day that there is not enough room for the motor-Y belt going up. And the Z stage is depending on gravity to move down but that might not work, as it does not seem to run fully smooth.

    I also ran out of M3 screws before I could assemble everything I have, so I need to source more of those.

    Short version: Do not attempt to build a TITAN unless you are willing to spend a lot of time changing and fixing things. It's my play machine, not a finished design.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    Nice to see its coming along :)

    Here are the parts i need to fill in on my long excel spreadsheet... any ideas?

    - Z Drive nut

    - Z Axis coupler

    - Resiliert coupling

    - Set screw

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    The Z coupler needs to go from 5mm to the Z screw, I've seen shops sell them, but they are not cheap. The Z drive nut is a custom machined part as far as I know.

    Not sure what those other 2 parts are.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    I would be led to believe that the resiliert coupling is synonymous with the Z-axis coupler. It seems that somebody misspelled resilient (although it's not actually a resilient coupler either unless you like really stiff ones :D).

    The set screws are probably the ones that go into the couplers and pulleys to lock them.

    The drive nut is a bronze leadscrew nut (to go with the leadscrew used obviously), I'm not sure if you can get them with the flats machined in them, but I have seen round and square ones that you can buy.

    The turndown on the leadscrew also won't come on any stock part, you'll probably have to get that done or use another driving method.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    I'm using the BOM from kitbom,

    http://www.kitbom.com/kitbom/ultimaker-rev-3

    I have no idea where they got it from, I think its user submited, so some things are a bit wierd :D

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    Also FYI, the kit has long time stopped shipping square nuts. Normal hex nuts work just as good, and there are a few places where you cannot use square nuts. So using hex nuts everywhere is easier.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    What sort of Endstops should I use?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    The kit ships with switches like these:

    http://www.reichelt.de/Schnappschalter- ... a139cf72a4

    However, for the Z switch, some people prefer to remove the metal lever. As this increases precision.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    Thank You Daid :)

    Just to confirm..

    300MXL & 100MXL Belts

    20XML Pulleys?

    Is that correct?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    I think there where some problems with ordering belts, as different suppliers use different numbering schemes. And I think using 298MXL or 297MXL belts was the best option.

    But the belts from Ultimaker have 240MXL written on them. See: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=621

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    J4ysen,

    I looked at the BOM that you linked to. It is pretty sparse on information. It lists qty's and part names and nothing else. No manufacturers or part numbers as far as I can tell. If you have done some foot work on manufacturers and part numbers, please share them. I and others are particularly interested in the heater element and the thermistor.

    Thanks,

    Matt

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    It also lists the wrong kind of M3 screws I think. It list "socket cap" screws, which are "DIN 912", but what is supplied with the kit are "socket button head" screws, type: "ISO 7380".

    Using the ISO/DIN numbers makes it much easier to find the correct screws. I got some great help on #reprap yesterday to track down these types of screws. As I needed them for my TITAN.

    EDIT: Oh, and I think the heater&thermocouple are custom parts. Best just order them from UM, or use slightly different ones. You could replace the whole hotend with a J-Head hotend or another type of hotend. (just type "hotend?" on #reprap, and you'll get a whole list of possible hotends)

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

    How is this coming along? I just bought the laser cut wooden parts and will be following along or trying to help round out this Bill of Material.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.7 stable released
        Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more. 
         
          • Like
        • 16 replies
      • S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
        (Sorry, was out of office when this released)

        This update is for...
        All UltiMaker S series  
        New features
         
        Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
          • Like
        • 0 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...