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j4ysen

Sourcing my own UM! Almost done, need some help

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Hey Everyone :D

As soon as i looked at the ultimaker price, :shock: i was imediatly put off buying it :O , instead i have made a list of every single part :idea: . I will share this when I am done and sure that it covers every component needed, and also where i can get them. I have a few questions... :?:

- There's a Part for the extrusion head called "Tiny Transparent acrylic"

- What's the difference between rev 2, and rev 3 (I know that the slider rod size is changed to 6mm in rev 3)

- Where are the Laser cut design files for rev3?]

Thanks :)

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It's this part:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/6147759950/

You could also use 2 small spacers.

The rev3 lasercut files are on thingiverse.

There are a bunch of custom machined parts in the Ultimaker, so those might be hard to source elsewhere. But, yes, I think you can save a few 100 bucks by self sourcing it. You could save even more money by building a prusa mendel, or even more by building a self sourced printrbot (or the Wallace as it's also called).

It's all a question of what you want. For the UM price, you get quality parts and good support. Not to mention you fund their research into upgrades and new machines.

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My TITAN design is already on github, but it's unfinished (no extruder, Z stage unfinished). I'm testing out the Z stage right now. It's unfinished and very experimental right now.

One of my bearings keeps dropping out. So I need to secure that one. I realized the other day that there is not enough room for the motor-Y belt going up. And the Z stage is depending on gravity to move down but that might not work, as it does not seem to run fully smooth.

I also ran out of M3 screws before I could assemble everything I have, so I need to source more of those.

Short version: Do not attempt to build a TITAN unless you are willing to spend a lot of time changing and fixing things. It's my play machine, not a finished design.

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I would be led to believe that the resiliert coupling is synonymous with the Z-axis coupler. It seems that somebody misspelled resilient (although it's not actually a resilient coupler either unless you like really stiff ones :D).

The set screws are probably the ones that go into the couplers and pulleys to lock them.

The drive nut is a bronze leadscrew nut (to go with the leadscrew used obviously), I'm not sure if you can get them with the flats machined in them, but I have seen round and square ones that you can buy.

The turndown on the leadscrew also won't come on any stock part, you'll probably have to get that done or use another driving method.

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J4ysen,

I looked at the BOM that you linked to. It is pretty sparse on information. It lists qty's and part names and nothing else. No manufacturers or part numbers as far as I can tell. If you have done some foot work on manufacturers and part numbers, please share them. I and others are particularly interested in the heater element and the thermistor.

Thanks,

Matt

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It also lists the wrong kind of M3 screws I think. It list "socket cap" screws, which are "DIN 912", but what is supplied with the kit are "socket button head" screws, type: "ISO 7380".

Using the ISO/DIN numbers makes it much easier to find the correct screws. I got some great help on #reprap yesterday to track down these types of screws. As I needed them for my TITAN.

EDIT: Oh, and I think the heater&thermocouple are custom parts. Best just order them from UM, or use slightly different ones. You could replace the whole hotend with a J-Head hotend or another type of hotend. (just type "hotend?" on #reprap, and you'll get a whole list of possible hotends)

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