Hi,
I am thinking of changing the original fan for two smaller 40x40mm fans with plastic fan ducts. This will make the head lighter by losing the bigger fan and stainless steel fan duct. I might need to put some insulation around the hot end not to melt the fan ducts.
Anybody done anything similar?
Well if you really need to use 40x fans you might cut the aluminium (you taking about umo+ right?). And save the midde area that keeps the hotends protected. I did that 
. I also did another design that worked much better than my two previus but right now I'm focus on the head magnet changer.
If you want to use other fans check first where they will grip (and how). To protect the pla printed fans I use an aluminium textile heat insulator that I got from ebay (someone linked it somewhere on this forums). It's called mtex heat shield. Works great and it's just like a textile more or less.
Btw if you really want to have a better fan system and lower the weight, search for 'crossflow fan' on this foruma. Now that's a efficient cooling system.
Yes, UMO+
I have seen the crossflow fan system,this impairs the reachability of the bed.
I will make a separate cover for the hot end with a piece of aluminium sheet and keep the original fan duct to be able to build back to original state.
This will make the fan system similar to the UM2 and expect it will improve print quality. I have noticed bad quality prints on the other side of the fan due to bad cooling on that side, depending on geometry of the print.
Regards,
I am trying to do this modification and just got my new fan. Do I simply plug it into the J20 port on the circuit board that says Fan 19-24V? And do you know what kind of connector I need to fit to the cable?
Also Neotoko, I downloaded your files but my version of Rhino is too old to open the Rhino drawings - could you possibly upload a version saved in compatibility mode with Rhino V4.0?
Sure. I'll try tomorrow. Also I have a version 3 that I didn't published that with a bit of tweaking could work really nice. I'll try to upload it all.
1
Thank you, that would be amazing! Anyone on whether port J20 is the right one to plug an extra fan in on the UMO+?
I connected the fan to the fan pwm. Just connect it in parallel. I bough x2 fans because when I did it I didn't knew that the stock fan was 24v but github says it is so I suppose that you could just get 1 24v. Sorry I didn't upload it yet I'm quinda busy with the magnet head changer.
Thanks Neotko, I am pretty new to electronics so still learning a lot. For the parallel wiring, did you just solder the power and ground wires directly to the wires of the original fan (and added a bit of sleeving?)? Do I need to add a resistor at any point? How can I check if that port provides enough current to power both fans? My new one draws 330mA I think...
Edited by GuestOmg ffffff lost the entire answer. Thanks new forum... Ok umm
350mAmps it's a lot for a fan. Most fans use 80mA. I'm using now x4 40x40 24v fans to the fan pwm and works nice. But each fan uses 60mAmps. The transistor has a maximum load of 500mA (I know this because I broke mine using a crossflow fan). But I still think that it was a semifaul from the board aince I was well underspecs and the led pwm also had problems from the start. Anyway that's other history.
I bough a connector with cable ready to solder from a portugal electronics shop (via internet). I did plan to save the original one but because the amps etc ain't listed on github or even on the fan sticker (but they didn't forgot to place the ultimaker logo ) I wanted to be safe and got x2 new fans. And yes you just solder them in parallel. UM2 uses x2 12v in 'series' for their fans but that's something a bit unsafe (according to the many posts I saw about this).
Omg mobile version needs a 'edit' button...
One think. My fans only start at 175 (I need to touch them so they start moving). If you fans do this (can happen) just change your gcode so the fans start with a big 210 and then lower it to 175 (or anything you need). At 255 my fans do a lot of air and they start without help at 195.
Oh edit button shows if I rotate the iphone... Ok..
Edited by GuestYou're completely right, I looked at the fan again and it says 0.12A, which I believe is 120mA, and the original fan on the other side (Sunon KDE2405PFVX) draws 91mA according to this datasheet I found: http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/189354_da_en_01.pdf , so that should be well below the 500mA you say the transistor supports. That means now it's only a question of cutting the cable and soldering everything together. Do you think it would be better to print the shroud in XT PLA as it's more temperature resistant? Have you found that a problem?
I take your point about the fans starting up, I usually run mine at full speed or not at all (for ABS), but with two fans it might be too much cooling to have both on full.
Edited by GuestOn pla the v2 design didnt had problems. But it will deform if you use E3D nozzles. I used a bit of blue tape to push a bit the fan holder when it curved. The v3 design (I need to upload it) will deform for sure without xt or a bit of heat insulator film. If you print with it with bed higher than 70C it will probably will deform a lot on the first layers. But so far I only print pla so I didnt test it. Anyway just my 2 cents. Any fan on the standar umo+ head will fail a bit since the head and fan ain't align. On my umo+ magnet head I solved that since I redesigned everything and the air flows in perfect alignment from both sides (but it needs a part of aluminium laser cutted and also since it's for dual head you loss a bit of printing area.
V3 unfinished version uploaded. Also I placed Rhino 4 versions for v2 and v3.
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neotko 1,417
Added a v2 version
New Version V2.
- Based on the original desings of the Metal Fan Cap from UMO+ that can be found on ultimaker github at https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus/tree/master/1501%20Print%20Head%20Fancap%20Meta...
- The 3dm files are much more editable so you can make your 'fan area' freestyle.
- Cleaned the clamp area to be much smaller and much more tight to the aluminium.
- I recommend to add a small strip of blue tape between the alu and the printed if you print it on pla, that will give enough air so it don't deforms.
Edit:
Just run a overhang print test, not extrictly a 'test' but a print I'm doing.
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