Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
gamerfanatic

Weird Infill Issue

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, this is my first issue with my new 3d printer! I love it anyway :Pbut wish to figure out what I need to adjust to get it working even better!

The infill does not seem to be "connecting" see pictures below for the issue. It seems like the printhead is moving REALLY fast during the infill parts so the "flow" seems to be too slow to keep up with the fast print head? Not sure!

(20 or 25% infill)

kci6Wlo.jpg

kcjkZZe.jpg

Anything I should adjust?

Thanks!!

Aaron

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HI

In Cura you need to go to expert, full settings, then go to the advanced tab and you will see infill speed. Slow this down. 10mm/s (or close to it) above the print speed is good. to fast and you get problems like yours.

you can even out all the speeds so they don't vary to much between each other.

Example:

50mm/s outer shell

55mm/s inner shell

60mm/s infill

50mm/s top bottom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HI

In Cura you need to go to expert, full settings, then go to the advanced tab and you will see infill speed. Slow this down. 10mm/s (or close to it) above the print speed is good. to fast and you get problems like yours.

you can even out all the speeds so they don't vary to much between each other.

Example:

50mm/s outer shell

55mm/s inner shell

60mm/s infill

50mm/s top bottom

This is what I thought I would be able to do. Is there no other way to compensate for more flow? After exploring the settings the speed only seemed to be around 100ish mm/s so the printer should definitely be able to handle that, no?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it can handle it. but its the difference in speed that's a problem. the faster you go the hotter the nozzle temp needs to be. So you will need to increase the temp. this will fix the infill but make the slower areas a bit hot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes it can handle it. but its the difference in speed that's a problem. the faster you go the hotter the nozzle temp needs to be. So you will need to increase the temp. this will fix the infill but make the slower areas a bit hot.

+rep if I could! Thank you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am feeling a little more comfortable around this machine, which I am happy to say. However, I still have this issue on ANY infill I am doing. Either high percentage or low infill, it still is not making a complete infill structure like it should. Any ideas? All my infill looks like the print attatched in the OP.

(I've increased temps to 217C with same results)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Set all speeds to 50mm/s (except initial layer) and see if it's ok, then adjust speeds from there until you get the results you want

Is there no way to correct this without adjusting speeds? I should be able to print at 80ish mm/s infill with this printer. Even on larger (square) prints it does the same type of things. I have reduced it to 60ish but it still will not finish it well.

(ultimaker 2)

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It seems like anything too fast just has too little material, do I need to increase material flow?

When bridging, the first "attempt" at bridging the material fails to extrude out of the nozzle until the second sweep around but by then the "infill bridge" has no where to be placed on.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sounds like you have under extrusion issues over certain Speeds

Yea, I think that is definitely the issue. How would we be able to fix this?

Here's the latest print, I think it is definatel evident not only on the "bridging" portion but on the layer that all of it sits, on, holes ETC. (Note this was printed at 100mm/sec, but i think it is definitely doable)

uu7oNdU.jpg

uu8DGIy.jpg

Sorry for the upside down image. Thanks Apple.

Settings:

KtADm.jpg

*Extruder temp: 215C*

*Bed Temp: 50C*

*Ultimaker Silver PLA*

---------------------

Quality:

Layer Height: 0.1mm

Shell: 0.8mm

Retraction: Enabled

---------------------

Fill:

Bottom/Top Thickness: 0.6mm

Fill: 33%

---------------------

Speed

Print speed: 100mm/s

---------------------

Support:

None

Rr130.jpg

---------------------

Machine:

Nozzle: 0.4mm

---------------------

Quality

Initial layer: 0.3mm

Initial layer line width: 100%

Cutoff object bottom: 0mm

Dual extrusion overlap: 0.15mm

---------------------

Speed:

Travel speed: 150mm/s

Bottom layer speed: 20mm/s

Infill speed: 100mm/s

Top/bottom speed: 0mm/s (100mm/s)

Outer shell speed: 75mm/s

Inner shell speed: 0mm/s (100mm/s)

---------------------

Cool:

Minimal layer time: 5 sec

Fans: Enabled 100%

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you definitely need to go hotter at those speeds. like 220 or 225.

I would try this speed test first. just load the Gcode onto the sd card and print it at 230deg

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3-s-test-it-here

this will show up if you have a problem. if it prints fine then its your settings that you need to adjust.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
you definitely need to go hotter at those speeds. like 220 or 225.

I would try this speed test first. just load the Gcode onto the sd card and print it at 230deg

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3-s-test-it-here

this will show up if you have a problem. if it prints fine then its your settings that you need to adjust.

Can't seem to find the download link...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IMG_0053.jpg

That was crazy watching. Love it. 10mm^3/sec got a little hairy but as you can see it came out alright!

What now? :)

I should note, the back wheel that feeds the material into the tube seemed to "back click" every so often, much more at 8+ mm^3/sec. I was only printing at 4.0mm^3/sec on the print i posted above (with fill and bridging issues)

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have been printing to cold then and need to up your Temps.

There maybe something that causing it to click back. You may need to do an Atomic pull to clean the nozzle. I would recommend printing Roberts feeder.

But the test came out fine so try printing your earlier piece at 225 and see how it goes. Then fine tune from there.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You have been printing to cold then and need to up your Temps.

There maybe something that causing it to click back. You may need to do an Atomic pull to clean the nozzle. I would recommend printing Roberts feeder.

But the test came out fine so try printing your earlier piece at 225 and see how it goes. Then fine tune from there.

I will print Robert's feeder. I actually like the design a lot more than the new one (more open).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello printer peeps,

I have an issue with this sparse printing. I tried to set up my settings to match gamerfanatic's settings but my prints cant even get to 4 mm 3/s. I am using pla at 230 c.

IMG_0137.thumb.JPG.2a4f406e1d21a38b7d7d4f3ad06ab95a.JPG[/media][/media]

The directions say to open the gcode then save it to sd card. Cura will let me open the premade gcode but not save it.

I could really use some help with this as i have two of these machines and just a bunch of spaghetti. Thank you very much for your time.

IMG_0137.thumb.JPG.2a4f406e1d21a38b7d7d4f3ad06ab95a.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you don't open the gcode in cura, just save it directly to the SD card.

Its hard to see in your photo but it looks like your bowden tube isn't fully down into the white PTFE coupler.

New machines?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you don't open the gcode in cura, just save it directly to the SD card.

Its hard to see in your photo but it looks like your bowden tube isn't fully down into the white PTFE coupler.

New machines?

 

IMG_0142.thumb.JPG.e7b0b762b47651a4444b29372714b7ba.JPG

I thought that might have been the case so I made sure to check it but it seems to be in there all the way. I just double checked. It goes in about 4.5 mm, if you measure from the little mark that the clamping down makes.

I just got two of these machine to replace a dead makerbot replicator 2 but these two new ones wont get up to par just yet. Sadly I have one makerbot rep 2 and one ulti one making all the prints and two new ultimaker 2's that are sitting. the nozzles are pretty clean and steams of filament seem to come out fine at lower speeds. I don't think I can go too high without carbonizing the filament.

IMG_0142.thumb.JPG.e7b0b762b47651a4444b29372714b7ba.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Print Core CC | Red for Ruby
      Q: For some users, abrasive materials may be a new subject matter. Can you explain what it is that makes a material abrasive when you are not sure which print core to use?
      A: Materials which are hard in a solid piece (like metals, ceramics and carbon fibers) will generally also wear down the nozzle. In general one should assume...
      • 1 reply
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!