owen
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Posts posted by owen
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Hi Dim3nsioneer
It stopped working for me.
First the old plugin on 14.01
So I tried it on fresh version of Cura 14.02-TEST1
Then I updated to TweakAtZ 3.1-test
but no G-Code appears
in this case no M140 lines show up
had been trying previously and with this version at 0.36mm high and much higher. My bottom layer is 0.3mm
It had worked previously for me before and I was changing speed and extruder temp as well at 3 different heights
Other than that I really like it
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So .... THAT is my issue ... Now ... how to adjust the rods in the print head to get them close to 90.
Comments?
Joe
There is no adjustment their Joe. You could only put 2 shims diagonally across one of the linear bearings. Or you could loosen the head screws off a little bit. Maybe if you loosened and re-tightened the screws in the head in a certain order you may get it more square.
It's more important to have the axis square so maybe you could loosen off the screws holding the head a small amount so you can twist the shafts to square and align the shafts and then see if you can tighten up the head screws without adding too much friction to the head movement.
Slowly tightening the 4 screws a bit at a time and then going to the next screw rather tightening each one right up at a time should help.
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Joe:
The squaring process involves sliding and tightening the slider blocks along the outside shafts so that they are the same distance from the other outside shaft which will make the head axis parallel to the outer axis.
That is, adjusting both X slider blocks to be same distance away from the Y outside shaft.
This is achieved by by loosening the screws on the pulleys.
You should start by having all 8 pulleys loose.
Then do X axis, align with tools, tighten up the 2 pulley screws at one end then the 2 pulley screws at the other end.
Then repeat for the Y axis.
The only way they can not be square then is if your your frame/outer axis aren't square(probably extremely rare for a UM) or the inside axis were bent (not very likely)
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Any ideas on how to move one of the rods in the extruder by a sub-angle amount?
Thanks.
Joe
You can't do that Joe and don't need to as that is set at 90 degrees.
When your axis aren't square it means that the extruder is twisted so that both axis are out.
When you can't get to your screw on the other side after doing one screw you remove your alignment tools and move the axis to be able to get to the screw. Then put on your alignment tools again. The axis will now be positioned into a different half hole on the alignment tools (but should be the same on each one)
If you loosen everything first you can make it so your screws on both sides are adjustable at the same spot before you start tightening them.
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Hi Mastory
If you look at your table for the number next to the temperature you are getting. Then find another table where that number gives the temperature you want.
Hope that makes sense.
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I thought the leveling on the UM2 was pretty good.
Probably good enough to not warrant hanging a servo on the head.
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I wonder why Ultimaker didn't add something more sophisticated than the "level with paper" assistent. If this cheap 3D printer can do it properly (watch the video(s)), how come that a printer nearly 7 times pricier can't? (link)
You can do this for the UM1 yourself Nico. Latest Marlin from Erik Zalm has the code and I think there's at least 2 plans on Thingiverse for mounting a servo to the head.
See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225584
and
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What temperature have you set the nozzle to pull the filament out?
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It would normally lie in the region of 1 to 3 Volts max. but usually 1.68V to 2V for each motor. So if you double that then you are well under what the stepper drivers could provide. They are supplied with 19V for the motor circuit so they could probably supply up to at least 17V if they needed to.
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You definitely don't want to use the current plug/socket and switch to supply everything.
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Yes but I have a different HB thermistor
I usually grab the latest firmware and just use the configuration.h file generated from the Ginge's builder.
I'm not sure of the method with the Hex file
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4.7K not 4.7 but you probably just made a typo there.
In light of the thermistor 2 showing up I would redo your firmware again
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Hi Harold
Your firmware settings look OK
Copper wires are your thermistor, black wires are your heater
4.7K resistor in R23, maybe measure this one with an ohm meter
Use the ground and signal wire from the connector on the PCB
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If you connect the steppers in series instead of in parallel, then it may work
That way you don't need double the current, but double the voltage across the motors. Afaik the motors run on a very low voltage - most of the power is actually burnt away in the drivers, so you may even get cooler stepper drivers by connecting two motors in series
Owen mentioned in another thread that he connected 3 steppers in series. Haven't tried it myself but I don't see any problems with that...
Still, you'll need lots of steppers which is kind of uneconomical (what a hypocrite I am, always being the uneconomical one myself, I know I know).
No, I didn't say I did it Jonny. I was thinking of doing it. But as for the reasons you've stated, the current is the same and double the voltage required, which the stepper drivers should be able to handle. Also an open circuit will make both steppers lose the circuit together which should be a better thing.
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Using the relay your temp will be regulated and you can apply 24V to the 12V terminals to get fast heating.
You will get double the current running through the cables and relay though and 4 times the power into the HB.
Your power supply will obviously need to supply 4 times the power as well.
It's all a balancing act. Voltage of PS chosen. Connecting to which terminals on the HB(12V and 24V). Trading of power required to speed of heating and cables required and if you want to run the UM off the same PS then that adds to the mix. Going lower voltage to the UM is possible down to about 15V but you can get slightly less performance from your stepper motors.
If you could find a high powered 19V PS or 24V adjustable PS (Common I think, mine is adjustable but only puts out 360W), you could try running the 12V HB circuit from the 19V. It will be quick but you'll need fairly high power, I don't know how much and reasonable cables and relay. It would be good if you could find someone who's done this to find out the current and power required.
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I bought 2 more leadscrews and nuts from UM to put in the front corners and was going to attach a stepper motor on each and wire the 3 steppers in series (= no extra drivers or belts etc.) (also = you don't want one stepper to get out of sync with the others). There isn't much room at the front to do it however.
I also made this to lessen the back lash in the nut.
The nut is held tight in the yellow piece and it uses 4mm shafts and bushings. It has no play Z and takes out all Z wobble but I think I have a bit of play elsewhere which still gives me levelling problems.
It is too big for the front corners though so I would need a more compact version for there.
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So you can turn your 24V China PSU down to run only 19V?
But how come the UM wiki specifically state that you should not run a heated bed directly from the UM PCB? Are you not worried about that?
All these contradicting information get me seriously confused...
Myself and a few others have blown up the on board MOSFET like this. I don't know how but some people have gotten lucky. Mine only took about a minute to blow.
The trouble with running a 24V HB at 20V it will heat up much slower. Change in power is proportional to the square of the change in voltage.
So if you halved the voltage the power will be a quarter of the original.
The upper limit of voltage is about 30+ I believe. Limited by what the stepper drivers can take and the 12V reg. (which will heat up much more with higher voltage)
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As long as the PS has enough watts. Allow 70W for UM. Add the HB Watts and go at least 50W more than that to be sure and you should be right. 24V is more common for HB's though and if you go to 24V for UM you may need a better 12V reg inside UM or at least provide better cooling for the current one.
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Just had sample of colorfabb to compare with faberdashery (great product but seriously, not on a reel!!)
I prefer not on a reel.
You don't have filament in a tight circle at the end of the reel then.
Just put it on a lazy suzanne.
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Awesome print foehnsturm, especially considering there's no post processing.
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What is the upper limit for layer height? 0.25 mm. sounds like a lot to me...? I never printed below 0.1 myself, though I'm aware you can go higher than that for fast low quality prints
I think about 3/4 of nozzle width is about the limit, so for 0.4mm nozzle = 0.3mm. Mind you I think it starts getting ugly above 0.2mm. I don't like to go over 0.15mm myself even if no one else is going to see it.
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Have you lubricated all 8 shafts with light machine oil or something similar?
Are your long belts over-tight?
Are your centre axis parallel to you our axis?
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X is only moving less than 1mm though Joe
New Versions of Cura-Plugins 'TweakAtZ' and 'RetractWhileCombing'
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Thanks guys, I'll wait till it's fixed and test it again or use 14.01