owen
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Posts posted by owen
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Check the fan speed max and fan speed min under expert settings in Cura and set them both to 100%
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I usually only go for about 20% fill just to give something for the top skin to print on to. Make thicker walls and top and bottom for more strength. It all depends where you need the strength (top to bottom, sideways or twisting). Shape is important and you can usually look at how similar things are made/engineered and copy that. One thing which is a bit different than other constructed things is the weakness between layers, so this has to be taken into account when choosing the orientation when you print.
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Hi Scott
Settings I would use
110C as the Bed temperature for ABS (60-70 for PLA)
Minimum 145C for nozzle Temp, as you have an enclosure you may not need to go much hotter
Coat your bed with a UHU glue stick and wipe down after with a fairly wet cloth to make a smooth thin layer
There is also many other things to coat your bed with that people have spoken about on this forum
Use Cura with the Brim setting
Then adjust your fan speed accordingly to get nice prints (Top skins and overhangs in particular) but avoid cooling too much which will bring back your original problems
You may have to vary these settings a bit depending on the size of your prints
Good luck
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So the print is perfect until the first overhang. Any idea?
Now keep the fan
With ABS it's a balance between using enough heat to get layers to stick to each other and enough fan to make good overhangs and top skins without cooling too much to stop the layers from sticking to each other.
I managed this bit OK on small prints but not on large prints.
Good luck fns720 and keep us posted
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But how comes that only the Cancel button is showed?
When i change print with cancel and vice versa the cancel button is then next the print button.
So the color codes are working.
Do you know why it doesn't show the buttons (visually)?
Not sure, I think they were just forgotten to be put there?
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Hi Guys
I have been getting problems with printing ABS with this fan.
Initially I was getting very ugly overhangs on small prints on the non fan side.
Turned up the fan and I got better overhangs but the model was splitting between layers.
Turned up the nozzle temp to 170C and this fixed the problem.
Then on a big print I can't get a good result.
I am using a glue stick to hold the model to the hated bed which is working good.
I'm am also using an enclosed chamber.
Between adjusting bed temp, nozzle temp, no enclosure - partial enclosure - full enclosure, different fan speeds I can't get a good result with ABS.
I either get unacceptably ugly overhangs and or splitting of the layers.
I have printed a bit slower as well which made my big model about a 22 hour print.
I haven't tried printing very very slowly though.
I think this approach looks to be great for PLA but not for ABS.
foehnsturm tried this previously and the results looked pretty good.
I got an aquarium pump previously but when I switched it on the UM crashed (and it's a bit noisy) and then along came the Cross Flow fan idea so I have been trying out that.
I am going to give the aquarium pump another go now though just have to stop the UM from tripping with a line filter or something.
I have seen a big ABS print from the UM2 that looked pretty good. (Partially enclosed dual fans)
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Also the code with the fan, on the bottom it says
addButton(0, 255, 255, 'Connect', connect)
addButton(0, 240, 255, 'Print', startPrint)
addButton(0, 220, 255, 'Pause', pausePrint)
addButton(0, 200, 255, 'Cancel', cancelPrint)
addButton(0, 180, 255, 'Error log', showErrorLog)but i only have 3 buttons (connect ,print and cancel)
Hi
It looks like the Pause and Error Log buttons were left off the top layer image. My guess is they should lie between the Print and Cancel buttons and after the Cancel button. If you click there I would say that they would work.
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Hi pad
You may need to adjust the nozzle closer to the bed for the start
A picture would be helpful too
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I'm having the same problem. I can get it to stick with the use of gluestick. I think 235ºC isn't enough to get layers sticking though. Possibly using less fan might help, though it can get ugly if you have overhangs and bridges and top skins. Hopefully Joergen or calinb can chime in, they both have much experience with ABS but not sure about big ABS prints though.
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I use this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28440
Though not as compact it is quite reliable and is never hard to pull on like a new heavy spool
Also unspooled filament doesn't have the tight radius towards the end
You can also buy a lazy suzanne if you don't have a hard drive
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@owen: I just did as you wrote. The new 'Pronterfan' option does not appear in the preferences. Only 'basic' and 'Pronterface UI'... what am I doing wrong? Tried it with RC5...
From within RC5 click on the Plugins tab
Click on Open Plugin Location
You should see the 'PronterfanUI' folder
In that you should see 3 files
image.png, map.png and script.py
both image files should be 781 X 400 pixels
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Yep, that would be better
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Just added fan control to the Pronterface UI in Cura
Maybe anyone else who creates one could put it in this thread
Instructions
1 Create a new folder in the Cura plugins folder and call it PronterfanUI
2 Place into that folder the full size version of the following 2 image files
3 then create another file in that folder called script.py and copy the code below into it and restart Cura
#Name: Pronterfan UI
#Info: Pronterface like UI for Cura with Fan
#Depend: printwindow
#Type: printwindow
# Printer UI based on the Printrun interface by Kliment plus fan.
# Printrun is GPLv3, so this file, and the used images are GPLv3
setImage('image.png', 'map.png')
addColorCommand(0, 0, 255, sendGCode, "G91; G1 X100 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 0, 240, sendGCode, "G91; G1 X10 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 0, 220, sendGCode, "G91; G1 X1 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 0, 200, sendGCode, "G91; G1 X0.1 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 0, 180, sendGCode, "G91; G1 X-0.1 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 0, 160, sendGCode, "G91; G1 X-1 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 0, 140, sendGCode, "G91; G1 X-10 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 0, 120, sendGCode, "G91; G1 X-100 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 255, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Y100 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 240, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Y10 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 220, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Y1 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 200, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Y0.1 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 180, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Y-0.1 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 160, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Y-1 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 140, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Y-10 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(0, 120, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Y-100 F2000; G90")
addColorCommand(255, 0, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Z10 F200; G90")
addColorCommand(220, 0, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Z1 F200; G90")
addColorCommand(200, 0, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Z0.1 F200; G90")
addColorCommand(180, 0, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Z-0.1 F200; G90")
addColorCommand(160, 0, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Z-1 F200; G90")
addColorCommand(140, 0, 0, sendGCode, "G91; G1 Z-10 F200; G90")
addColorCommand(255, 255, 0, sendGCode, "G28")
addColorCommand(240, 255, 0, sendGCode, "G28 X0")
addColorCommand(220, 255, 0, sendGCode, "G28 Y0")
addColorCommand(200, 255, 0, sendGCode, "G28 Z0")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 0, sendGCode, "M107")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 5, sendGCode, "M106 S13")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 10, sendGCode, "M106 S26")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 15, sendGCode, "M106 S38")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 20, sendGCode, "M106 S51")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 25, sendGCode, "M106 S64")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 30, sendGCode, "M106 S77")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 35, sendGCode, "M106 S89")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 40, sendGCode, "M106 S102")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 45, sendGCode, "M106 S115")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 50, sendGCode, "M106 S128")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 55, sendGCode, "M106 S140")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 60, sendGCode, "M106 S153")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 65, sendGCode, "M106 S166")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 70, sendGCode, "M106 S179")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 75, sendGCode, "M106 S191")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 80, sendGCode, "M106 S204")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 85, sendGCode, "M106 S217")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 90, sendGCode, "M106 S230")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 95, sendGCode, "M106 S242")
addColorCommand(0, 1, 100, sendGCode, "M106 S255")
addTerminal(255, 0, 255)
addTemperatureGraph(180, 0, 255)
addProgressbar(255, 200, 200)
addButton(0, 255, 255, 'Connect', connect)
addButton(0, 240, 255, 'Print', startPrint)
addButton(0, 220, 255, 'Pause', pausePrint)
addButton(0, 200, 255, 'Cancel', cancelPrint)
addButton(0, 180, 255, 'Error log', showErrorLog)4 from Preferences choose Pronterfan UI from the Print Window dropdown
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Have you checked your gcode to see that it goes right to the end?
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Most PLA will probably give this same effect. The problem is the friction from the sanding raises the temperature of the PLA to the point where it softens. You just need to sand it under water (just the print and the sand paper :wink: ) or use ABS
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Hi R4xi
Not sure what you mean by 20% Density
It doesn't look like under extrusion but more like warping which is then causing splitting from the stress
You could try turning the fan down a bit more or building a heat chamber or partial heat chamber using bubble wrap wrapped around your UM plus over the top
Also leave it on the heated bed for a bit after printing
Not real sure, hope someone else chimes in with suggestions
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Could you please give me the numbers you put into the plugin and the approximate dimensions of the print to which you want to apply the plugin? I would like to reproduce the problem with RC3.
All working now thanks Dim3nsioneer
I answered Daid incorrectly before when he asked about using previous ini files. I thought he was talking about the plugin file. So my answer should have been Yes, because I had been opening my previous profiles.
Anyway, I got RC3 and a new profile and then set it up like my old profile.
Then it stoppped working again and I found I had an error in my start.gcode
I was using a command to turn the plugin off before and then back on after the first 15mm lowering of the platform
I think I was using it without a semicolon in front
Where as now I have a semicolon in front of both commands and they are working as they should
For anyone interested this is how I have it coded now and it works
;TweakAtZ-state0
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
;TweakAtZ-state1
So thanks again Dim3nsioneer for your help and the great plugin
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OK.... could you please specify 'not working': no gcode change or do you get an error? Errors are visible at the end of output.txt; but you have to close Cura for having this file updated.
No gcode change
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Did you copy the ini files from an previous installation to the 14.02RC2?
No
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Hi Daid
Not sure if you realize but the TweakAtZ plugin isn't working in this release
Other than that it's working great for me.
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Yep, I see. They don't exactly look developed for clay.
I'm looking forward to see what you come up with. Please keep us posted.
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Hey jhertzberg
I think you'll find on thingiverse some designs that use a syringe that is connected to the bowden and the normal feeding of the filament pushes the plunger. Very simple.
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oke what do you think about this one ''omron g2r-1a-e 18vdc''
its from the same series and the voltage lay a lot closer to the 19v that i measure on the board.
Yep, that would be better. Just check the contact current is high enough for you. It doesn't hurt to go a bit higher there to make sure.
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hey AaronAlai, gr5 thank you for answer my questions. i learn every day more and more about the electronics of my ultimaker
today i connect the relay to the 12V battery of my car and it works. after the good results with the car battery i want try it again to my ultimaker port but the tiny contact of the coil broke before.
i also call my colleague today the one who gave me the relay, and he tell me that it should be possible that i can connect the coil in only one way (i'm always thinking i t makes no different)
he also tell me that it is possible to connect 19v on the coil but it reduce the life cycle of the coil.
tomorrow i order a new relay and also a component to reduce the voltage from 19v to 12v to spare my coil.
i let you know if it works.
and yes gr5 i have a multimeter
Hi Roald
I've been using a 12V relay for mine for over 12 months with no problems. Also most relays don't care about polarity. They would only worry about polarity if the used a magnet or had an internal diode or LED.
Ultimaker - Black Edition
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
WOOOT
Also Jonny have you considered Carbon Fibre. One seller on eBay selling sheets of it offers a quote for laser cutting as well if you send your drawings.