owen
-
Posts
675 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by owen
-
-
Yep, thats right Harold. R23 4.7k. Thermo same connection as original UM thermo.
-
I assume the 3rd in the list?
Yep, I used that one and it seems right. Only heated the nozzle to 245 and pushed some through so far but it seemed right.
Thanks for the drawing too. That will be a great help.
-
I like MoonCactus' original sliding blocks http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45236.
I prefer the included banana belt tensioning compared to ones that hang on the belt.
I like the direct drive too mainly because you don't have to worry about short belt tensioning anymore.
Also look here http://www.thingiverse.com/tag:ultimaker for the more popular things, they are usually the best I think.
-
Not sure if someone has said this but in different terminology.
Normally you are squeezing out a round shape and flattening it out into a rectangle shape and sticking it onto a complete surface below.
In this instance one side is flattened out and stuck down as usual while the outside (that doesn't have a surface underneath) doesn't get squished flat and comes out as a thicker circle which goes higher and lower than the rectangle half (shape of a keyhole on it's side). On top of this there is no adhesion from underneath to prevent the normal warping and lifting of the non stuck down side.
-
On a UM1 it's available when you do one push of the button. I'd imagine it's similar on a UM2. You have have to manage oozing and re-priming though.
-
beautiful creation !
Ian :smile:
Yeah
Except I don't like the colour
It needs painting :wink:
-
@Aaron: Thanks, that's what I was looking for
@Robert: Thanks, I needed to snap to the 5 degree increments
@gr5: Thanks George. I thought I had read through Illuminarti's blog post looking particularly for this. Maybe I didn't. I've managed to achieve what I wanted to do now thanks to Aaron and Robert but I'll look through all of Illuminarti's blog post again to pick up some finer points
-
I love it as you use it with your left left hand while doing other stuff with the mouse on the right hand. You don't have to move your mouse away to rotate your model. I'm using it with inventor
-
I also love the idea behind it, but, I haven't been able to work out how to reorientate my model to the build platform yet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
-
Hi Dan
I'm not a big reader so I skipped a few paragraphs in the middle
You probably wouldn't mess up the build of the UM1, it will probably print well or not at all and then you can get plenty of help here.
UM2 however seems more reliable, has a heated bed so you can print in ABS. It also has better bed leveling and probably prints slightly more accurately.
To get your money back and make a profit you probably need to design and print something that isn't mass produced already and/or is not possible to make by injection molding.
3D printing is a real fun and addictive hobby though so just go for it anyway
-
Come on Aarons, where's your google skills.
http://www.aaronsmetricscrews.com/
I was actually looking for a place in US called metric screws or something that I'd seen before but this place seems to have the right name for you guys :wink:
-
Um... I think this one is much better probably:
https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/raw/master/TweakAtZ.3.0.1.py
This one works better with multiple objects printed one at a time (where Z goes back to zero again) and I think comes with more things you can tweak.
Yep this is the one that I used and works.
This is in my ABS profile which does the 1st layer Flow rate at 133%, Nozzle 260, Bed 130 (not accurate).
Layers are 0.12mm
From layers 2 to 4 these settings are changed
It slows down slicing a bit so you wouldn't want to add many more than this if you can help it
-
You can do it with this plugin:
http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_TweaktAtZ
I must admit I never got it to work, but it's supposed to be easy...
Version 3 works no problems
-
Hi Jonny
You don't have to have it ran by PWM.
I think they heat up and cool down to slow for PWM to be a good choice.
Maybe try it the other way and see how you go
-
I think so. You only have to load 2 parts in Cura and look at the GCode for M106 to find out.
-
Nice work Markus
I am currently making a bracket for my cross flow fan now.
I have a design for a front cover if you are interested.
Made with perspex and hinged using current mounting screws so no drilling into ultimaker needed.
-
Hi Uma
Try 50mm/s and 1.2mm top and bottom. If they are coming out under extruded then turn the temperature up to 220-230.
-
I submitted a ticket on a product. They had no normal way of contacting them.
-
When printing in ABS I encounter the following error
The ABS is delaminating,
I have a heatbed set at 100 degree and I am printing the ABS at 230 degrees.
Any tips would be very helpfull as I do want to make ABS my standard printing material. I have read something about Natural ABS but I'am not sure what that is.
Thanks
Hi Mikilu
More usual settings are 110C Bed and 245-250 Nozzle
-
I got this reply to my query.
HI Owen - Thank you for contacting Printrbot. We do have limited inventory on our hot ends at times, but all 4 of our models are currently in stock on our site.
Take care,
Printrbot team
So I looked at the status and it said 1 left.
So I ordered it.
Thanks Nick for showing us this one.
-
Anyone here, preferably in the U.S who's already in touch with printrbot, and could make an inquiry (perhaps for an omnibus order)? As far as I know there is an exclusive agreement between Carl Ubis and printrbot.
I have asked through a contact form when it would be available again. I sent a link to this page as well.
-
-
Hi from Australia
Nice figure and print. Try the latest Cura and play with the support settings, it's fairly good these days.
-
Hi greengecko
Which thermistor in Marlin did you end up choosing? I have just received the same heater.
UBIS Hotend on an Ultimaker
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I'm fairly certain that's correct Harold, just not sure where to find it on the Um site. Also it's ground and signal you connect to the thermistor out of the three pins