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Everything posted by owen

  1. Hi All For any Aussies this is a great initiative Here. Fill in the form and they'll get back to you fairly quick with the details and model to print. It's the 3D printed part of a face shield and it's a 30 minute to 1 hour print and you send a batch to them at a time. They'll even pay $1.50 per item if you wish to cover your filament cost. They also have a Discord site to discuss etc.
  2. Hi It sounds like you have an error/hole in your obj file. Possibly get a program that can show where it is and/or patch it or start again with a simple base maybe a mm higher than your current base. Once you can get that to slice than cut out most of that base and create your current base again. Just post back if any of this is unclear and if you really get stuck please send the fusion 360 file or share it.
  3. You need to do a "save as" then select type as stl on each part separately. If you are in an assembly right click on the part and choose "open" to open that part in a separate window and then do the above.
  4. Thanks for the update Oliveros. That ABS has a glass transition temperature of 105C compared to PETG (the one I just googled ) of 75C, so it should be much better. You'll have to post a pic when you make your final design.
  5. I haven't printed with PETG but I think it's similar to NEXT GEN. I use UHU glue and a Brim and make spharp corners on the base base round where possible.
  6. Hey Oliveros You could try something like this. Make the walls 2 line widths thick. Shaft_Clip.obj
  7. You may need to print it in a different orientation so the weakness of layer adhesion isn't causing the problem. Check out This Thread. Also you might want to show us the model.
  8. I've done a lot of stuff in 3D, photos etc. and these are done beautifully. Very clear and easy on the eye. Sure does give a better view of the model. Well done.
  9. Hi You just need to check the highest temperature your printer is able to print at and the required temperature for that filament. Which filament is it exactly?
  10. Hi If you make an enclosure for the top of your printer and a door for the front then ABS prints much better. It stops the layers from splitting.
  11. Thanks to the Dev's for continually improving Cura and exploring with the new interface. Personally I preferred the full list on the right as I don't remember all the different settings so I need to look through the list with as little scrolling as possible. An idea I had would be to have a category list on the left which would be a dropdown that you can pin open. The selection of the category would show it's settings in the right list. The right list would open up as long as necessary to fit all of that categories settings in. The Category list would also have "All" as an option.
  12. Hi Looks like you're not starting close enough to the bed. The first layer and brim should be squished onto the bed so that the lines of print are touching each other with no gap in between. Best if you can do the bed leveling routine and give it another go.
  13. Try one of these thermal switches. https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-C-99-C-DC-12V-Intelligent-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-/321723841989 You just need to hook up 12V and a good fan. I've been using one with a 4cm fan for a while and it works great but on a hot day it's hard to keep the temperature down for the lower temp filaments so now I have hooked up an 8cm fan. I set it to 45C for ABS and 30C for Ngen. I take my my enclosure off for PLA but if I had to use it I'd set it for 10C to 20C to that the fan is on all the time.
  14. Hi Christian I think this occurs when the print head has to slow down for the corner and still has the plastic oozing out at the same rate which makes more plastic come out over a given distance. Maybe some plastic also gets tossed outwards when the nozzle suddenly changes direction. Either way the cure is to either print slower or if you are designing the models yourself you can make rounder corners where possible. Otherwise your prints look very good. Owen
  15. Maybe make a part like this printed on the side will give give more strength by the direction of the print lines and make a foot plate to go on top which you would print on the front facing side to give good strength
  16. Probably a transistor etc. which drives the heated bed is permanently turned on instead of relying on the signal from UM2 to turn it on. Alternatively the transistor is receiving a false signal to it's input which is turning it on. You need to get a technician to have a look and replace the component or you could replace the whole printed circuit board yourself, assuming the transistor is on there. You could try uploading the firmware first in case it's an error in the code. This is a less likely fix but costs nothing to try. Also look at the electronics to see if any wire has come loose or
  17. So I duplicated your settings in Simplify3D and the print lines still seem extremely noticeable. Im not sure if this is just as good as it gets or if I just need to keep tweaking. I just heard so much about the Ultimaker printers that I expected them to be equal or better than the zortrax. I decided to print a little batman bust and when looking straight at it, it looks lovely, all the details are there.. but when you slightly shift your angle you see how pronounced every print line is. Now Im not expecting perfection, but I expect the depth from one print layer to the next to be a little m
  18. I've been using S3D with enclosure and door maintaining 45 degrees C Nozzle 250 Bed 100 Fan off till 10 layers (when doing 0.15mm layers) then at 20% Same models were splitting before I used the enclosure Using just enough fan for better overhangs and tops At 50mm/sec. at 0.15mm layers but also printing finer layers and slower speeds with good results I'm sure CURA would print good with the same settings
  19. That vapour polishing doesn't always look that great due to lost detail but it looks perfect on this print.
  20. owen

    The Wedge

    Version 1.0


    The Wedge
  21. Hi Owen, is it possible that you can create a short screencase of this and send like a dropbox link in a DM to me? (Or whatever you prefer?) That might help our developers too. Thank you for your help! Look at my post, just above yours (https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11734-general-forum-feedback?page=52#reply-155829) and you can see the behavior described Yeah, I think you're right.
  22. Hi Owen, is it possible that you can create a short screencase of this and send like a dropbox link in a DM to me? (Or whatever you prefer?) That might help our developers too. Thank you for your help! Screencast do you mean as in a video? Just clicked on the unread link now on my phone and it went to "https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11734-general-forum-feedback?page=51#unread"
  23. I just refreshed my list of unread topics. The link to this topic said "1 unread" but the URL it pointed to was "https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11734-general-forum-feedback?page=unread#unread" which made it jump to the top of page 51 instead of the last post of page 52 When it's working the link would be "https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11734-general-forum-feedback?page=52#unread" Hope this helps. I'm on firefox on Win 7 Ultimate Owen
  24. This, all the time. Still not working all the time. Why? Could both @Lepaul and @titus tell me what browser and operating system you use? Do you have multiple tabs open, so a read-command can be triggered without using the notification under the bell? Thanks! Probably related to this. When showing a list of unread posts(just refreshed), clicking on unread posts link takes me to last page top post. Scrolling down to the end doesn't show the black bar indicating the start of the unread posts. This had been working for several weeks until a few days ago. Samsung tablet. Google Chrome
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