gadgetfreak
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Posts posted by gadgetfreak
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I think this is an excellent idea. We've been using "the Atomic method" (based on user MostlyAtomicBob who first explained it) which is similar with the 90C trick.
However, isn't the nozzle reservoir a much bigger diameter than the Bowden tube?
I can't recall the dimensions for UM1 and UM2 resevoir respectively...it would be super cool if it could be automated in the UM2 filament change process.
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The problem has been solved!
I was never on site, but apperently there was gunk built up around the nozzle that was the root cause.
Good troubleshooting feeling Simon
Thanks for the help guys!
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Thanks Simon, good pointers
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Hi,
I got a picture from misbehaving UM2 at a friend yesterday night.
I'll troubleshoot on site today but since I'll be short on time once there I thought I'd ask for some fellow input here first.
This is what I know before looking at the unit first-hand:
The machine has printed fine everyday for a week.
This same model has also printed fine on this machine with the same roll of filament.
Now the first layer gets really messy, like this:
Bed leveling has been re-done twice and still the same issue.
They tried with two different rolls of PLA.
I was thinking it looks to be too hot/over-extrusion so I will check the used filament profile for temp/bed temp/diameter/flow etc.
Also cleaning the bed as it looks a bit messy.
If that doesn't help I'm thinking of trying AtomicBobs cleaning process like documented here (by another nice forum contributor) to rule out strangeness in the nozzle:
http://www.fablab-regensburg.de/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Ultimaker-2-Nozzle.pdf
Any other input from you guys?
Thanks.
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You can get the correct Sunon fan for the middle fan from a European supplier, I wrote about in a post in the umforums in december.
Here is a direct link to the supplier/fan:
http://www.tme.eu/se/katalog/?idp=1&search=MC25060V2-000U-A99&cleanParameters=1
It's 5EUR for a single one. For 50+ it's 3.85EUR per piece.
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Geeks, it looks very nice!
However, I think that with a small re-design it would also improve feeding of flexible material?
I already sent some to Ian for testing, would you like some as well?
I can send a few metres of NinjaFlex (very soft/flexible) and FlexPolyEster 45D (flexible but not as soft as NinjaFlex) for free if you'd like to test.
If you're up for it, send me a PM with your address!
Keep up the good work.
Daniel
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Measuring temperature can be difficult.
The thermal camera is a great tool but best to use to compare relative differences.
The picture looks a bit out of focus, for a correct temperature reading it's important to have correct focus (use the focus ring
) as well as having correct emissivity setting for the material setting. I suggest calibrating at room temperature (adjust emissivity to report room temperature before turning on printer when it has cooled off) as well as using a thermocouple or other contact thermometer attached to a measuring point as a secondary reference. Beware though that the secondary sensor might act as a heat sink.For best results the components should be somehow blackened/sootened to emulate a blackbody.
I think other memebers like Bertho or Joergen might have useful input on this
Regardless, good work!
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Hmm...there are tensioning springs inside the slider blocks that should automatically tension the belts.
I haven't seen anyone else have problems with these yet, but there are so many new posts every day now so who knows.
Please contact Ultimaker support and let us know what they say.
About the LED strips, yes that is a bit worrying. I wonder whether using a heat gun with care locally at the solder joint might do the trick? Or of course touch up with a soldering iron manually.
But you should contact support about this as well.
Good luck.
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Great work guys!
This could be very significant, the findings of the resistor overheating should be emphasized in a thread of its own I think.
I will share this with some of the Ultimaker staff over e-mail in case they missed this thread (so many new threads nowadays).
Everybody who has experienced significant underextrusion might want to report the operating environment temperature as well.
Daniel
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I think the layers view needs to represent the truth as fas as possible when it comes to how the object is printed. Therefore I absolutely think that it's not a price worth paying.
I some things are not displayed correctly, how would I then be able to trust the layer view at all?
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I cannot think of anything that I changed that causes UM2 prints to halt...
Daid, we just reproduced this with a previously known working model.
A 4MB video of the behaviour is here.
The gcode for the object printed in the video is here. It takes about 15-20 minutes to print.
The version in the menu states:
Feb 18 2014 11:36:54
Version 14.02.1
(was downloaded as part of RC3)
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Cor3ys, that's what I meant.
In that case I guess it should be an easily reproducible bug...
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Cor3sys same behaviour for me in that fw. I reported details elsewhere in this thread. Did you use cut off setting?
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I also noticed the new "pause" feature when printing.
I like that now for the UM2 - unlike pause in UM1 - the head moves up and out of the way before pausing.
Some questions/issues on pause:
1) When pausing it seems it takes a while (buffered?) before it actually pauses. Is there a way to calculate how long it will take? Is is a specific number of line segments/gcode lines?
2) I cannot find a way to change filament during a pause. I think that most people would use pause to change filament. Of course it could be useful for other things as well (inserting objects into a print etc) but I really think it needs to be possible to change the filament.
Feasible to implement? The Replicator 2 has this feature I think and it would be nice if we had it too.
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I just downloaded the RC3 and upgraded a UM2 with the firmware (which the printer says is 14.02.1).
After running a very short print (only 0.1mm layer), at the end the print stopped and then the timer counter counted down for a few second...and then it started displaying 6 hours. Still the head was still and not moving, also still heated bed and hotend heated.
I waited only a minute or so before I aborted.
Not sure it matters, but this was a print with Initial layer thickness 0.1mm and I had cut off object bottom enabled as well.
I.e. with the cut-off it was 0.1mm high, otherwise 0.2mm high.
I'm guessing this is a firmware bug?
Did not try this print with previous/other firmwares though.
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It's great to see everyone collaborating on this!
A little input from me regarding material selection for the feeder components/housing: I have an all metal feeder that is about the same design as the UM1 feeder in that it's clamped but with a small entrance hole.
I have problems with filament dust getting scraped off the sharp metal edges of that entrance hole and also when pulling the filament manually when the extruder motor is off. Metal is hard and sharp! I tried smoothing the edges with a Dremel rotary tool but only helps for part of the problem.
I'd like to see other durable material for the parts. PolyCarbonate? PP? And maybe rubber-costed wheels for the contact with the filament where it is gripped.
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We have printed black ABS out of the box on an UM2. It was a medium sized object about 8mm high and 8cm in diameter. Like Joergen says, you cannot have the fan on much for the first layers, the heater cannot keep up with the target temperature when you start to get up to 80-90 degrees and above when the fan is on early. This is with standard office temp in surroundings. Apart from lowering fan also closing the open side will help.
Joergen: how big parts have you printed in ABS on UM2?
Can you increase heater capacity in an "easy" way?
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Hi guys, when re-designing can you please make sure to adapt the new design for flexible filament like discussed here:
I think that would be the easiest part of the new design.
It is really cool to print in flexible material!
See examples here - we printed a BMX handle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIRrVSU0wnY&feature=youtu.be
and here - we helped architect print a mold for concrete:
https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1017441_236844363165002_146607555_n.jpg'>https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1017441_236844363165002_146607555_n.jpg'>https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1017441_236844363165002_146607555_n.jpg'>https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1017441_236844363165002_146607555_n.jpg
https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1017441_236844363165002_146607555_n.jpg
Also Bertho, here is some info I think you requested over at Google Groups - regarding the direct extrude motor:
>>>Here's some related info from two weeks ago from Daid (numbers) and Joergen (sparkfun link):
>> It has a holding torque of 44 N*cm, 400 steps per revolution. NEMA17 of
>> 47mm. However, unless you are doing direct-drive it's way overpowered.
>> I have no idea where to get them in small numbers.
>google to the rescue: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846'>https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846'>https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846'>https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846 (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846)
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Bed temp can be crucial. Also you might want to check the actual temp in the tune menu as the UM2 will struggle to keep up the high temp especially if the fan turns on. Set the fan to anywhere between 0 and 50% might help. Also, check the glass transition temp of your particular ABS, they vary a bit but usually 90C or lower.
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It was was the cables from two(!) fan JST connectors (male side) that had bit by bit starting to come loose/been ripped from the JST connectors. I did not have the proper size JST connectors to crimp new ones but I made new ones by some jumper housing pins and soldered them nicely with heat shrink. Seems to work splendidly. I wonder whether the entire cable bunch need to be secured better for maintenance to survive that and millions of movements...
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Thanks for all comments. This is a pre-prod unit which have had some teething issues but it's been working well overall.
It's most likely a damaged JST connector because we can make the fan stop/start by nudging it. Now if I only could find the correct crimping pliers and JST connector...aaargh. I deeply dislike JST connectors. Too hard to disconnect without wear to cables. I guess they are not designed to be decoupled too often.
The schreeching sound is most likely a rubber band misaligned, it's on the gigantic todo list
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We have a UM2 unit which is behaving a bit strange for quite some time now, in regards to the side cooling fans.
I'd like to know whether others have experienced the same type of issues and how to best troubleshoot them.
Also, I'd like to know how the UM2 material properties fan setting affect the fan speed.
When I slice an object with Ultimaker 2 machine profile aka "UltiGCode", it seems that the gcode is generated so that the fans are on full speed (M106 S255) on the layer that is on height 0.5mm.
As a standard in Cura, the first layer, layer 0, is set to 0.3mm (to ensure good first layer adhesion). Therefore, if I slice an object with a layer height of 0.2mm then the fan will be full on from the second layer (layer 1) since 0.3+0.2=0.5mm.
If I slice it for a layer height of 0.1mm, then Cura will generate an M106 S127 for the second layer (layer 1) to set a fan speed of 50%. Then the third layer will be at 0.5mm and thus generate a M106 S255.
When having 0.05mm layer height, fans will likewise be in 25%, 50%, 75% and finally 100% in the same manner.
Now, my questions:
1. What does the "Fan speed" of a UM2 Material profile do? I can change this between 0 and 100%.
If the gcode is like I described earlier, different M106 Snnn codes, what will the fan speed do?
Is it relative to the last M106 Snnn gcode executed? Or does it work in some other way?
2. The side fans are sometimes intermittent so that the come on and off. I find it very strange. Here is a video (dropbox link to H264-encoded video, about 8 MB) of layer 1 (the second layer) which should then be at 50%.
And there are no M106 codes in the gcode where this occurs.
Is it the firmware or some wiring/electronics issues perhaps?
Thanks for any input.
Daniel
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I'm planning to use this guide for inspiration:
http://www.spaceclaim.com/en/Support/Tutorials/Modules/SpaceClaim_STL.aspx?t=110#
to make a proper CAD part using SpaceClaim but it should be possible also to use the free version DesignSpark Mechanical:
http://designspark.com/eng/page/mechanical
The process looks really cool and pretty simple...I hope I'll have some time tomorrow but please do try this folks!
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Great, thanks for the info! I might try to find a similar knurled wheel and put it together...
What are the specs of the motor? would be one of 400 steps and about 48Nm of torque enough?
Here's some related info from two weeks ago from Daid (numbers) and Joergen (sparkfun link):
> It has a holding torque of 44 N*cm, 400 steps per revolution. NEMA17 of
> 47mm. However, unless you are doing direct-drive it's way overpowered.
> I have no idea where to get them in small numbers.
google to the rescue: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846
Några svenskar med Ultimaker här?
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Det diskuteras väldigt mycket 3D-printing på svenska på animate.se:
http://www.animate.se/viewforum.php?f=199
Det finns riktigt bra med kunskap där.
T.ex. Paulo är en av veteranerna i Sverige.
Och Barspin aka Daniel Norée som har designat den legendariska skiftnyckeln och är grym på Nylon.
Kanske mest Makerbot-ägare pga att forumet ägs av Creative Tools tror jag. Men även en del andra skrivare diskuteras det om och många saker är ju gemensamma mellan skrivare.