IRobertI
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3D Prints
Posts posted by IRobertI
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Click on Help->Show Configuration Folder and it'll open up the folder that holds the settings for your install.
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It all depends. What scale you're going for and what level of quality you're hoping to get out of it/how much post processing you're willing to do.
I'd start by reaching out to them and ask for screenshots of what the 3d-printable files look like (for 900 they should be willing to do that I would hope...) to get a better idea of what that actually means. They offer STEP-files which can easily be converted for STL for free, so what more are they doing to the files to make them worth 900 bucks?
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I'd start by recalibrating the decouplers and see if that helps. Link to PDF with instructions:
https://makerbot.my.salesforce.com/sfc/p/j0000000HOnW/a/5b000004TwzY/w4vGOQBUczvGtnXmn4be30qA4qSvyCk8i7WV9f0XpSw -
Try a firmware recovery and see if that brings it back to life:
https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667418049459 -
Everything except the problem with not reaching temperature points to a broken or obstructed fan in the lid of the print head. The fan should spin as soon as either printcore goes above 40C.
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It does not. The S7 has an added sensor that can detect if the door opens up to help a bit with this.
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I'm not sure why you're making things so complicated with modifying the brim settings when you can just let the Skirt do the job for you. "Skirt" is an option under "Build plate adhesion type" and is what is getting enabled when you're turning off "Adhesion" in the simple "Recommended" view of the settings. That's the outline you mentioned in your previous post.
The skirt can be customized to set how many lines it should print, which distance it should be from the model and the minimum length of the skirt (when printing tiny objects a single line might not be enough). All this is doing is priming your nozzle to make sure it's full of plastic before the actual model starts getting printed. When the nozzle isn't fully primed the start of the first layer of the model will usually have issues.
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You can't update the firmware via Cura? You should be able to connect your printer with an USB cable to your computer and update from within Cura. Settings -> Printer -> Manage Printers
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The board that sits in the front of the printer is called the USB Ulticontroller board, the part number is 1994 and any of your local resellers should be able to get that for you.
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You're going to have to decrease the layer thickness or (probably preferable) see if you can change the orientation of the part to not have such a shallow angle on that top surface.
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Information regarding network requirements can be found here:
https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337958118 -
The boards are the same, but they need to be "provisioned" so that they know which type of printer they are installed in. Instructions for that can be found here:
https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667410987665-
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Sorry I've been out all day (relative celebrating his 50th) and saw the tag by @gr5 now, but looks like you got it sorted out. These days we don't take these apart when replacing belts for customers, we use pre-assembled kits instead, saves a lot of time and the cost is not high enough to justify the extra time it takes (while risking cracking the block and having to replace it anyway).
As for which is better or worse. All sliding blocks can crack if you're unlucky I'd say, but the latest ones, the ones you have, that are white and have internal tabs seem to be very robust. The first white blocks (with external tabs) that came out for the UM3 were pretty bad, lots of cracked blocks there. They got replaced by black ones that fared much better but these were then replaced again by the new white ones. It's a bit of a mess as far as part numbers go there 😄
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Sorry, I don't have an answer for you either I'm afraid. Honestly I haven't used the template in many years. I just count from the center to the closest match, be it positive or negative. Usually you end up with an offset +-6 or so at most in my experience. I haven't really put more thought into it than that as I haven't had a reason to as it has never been a problem (I've printed plenty without doing any calibration as well for that matter).
As gr5 mentions, the PDF doesn't perfectly match up to the actual printed pattern, something that I've gotten a few calls about as well, so you can't use that to measure.
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Your print head is mounted backwards. Remove it by unclipping the rods that go through the print head from the sliding blocks and rotate the head 180 degrees.
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11 hours ago, gr5 said:
There is no sticker or anything for them to tell if you opened the bottom.
There are on some.
I wouldn't say it's common. I don't know off hand how many displays we've replaced over the years but I'm fairly sure I only need to use one hand to count them, maaaybe two hands. (edit: I should clarify, "we", as in 3DVerkstan, not Ultimaker as a whole)
Regardless I would reach out to your reseller first, just to inform them and make sure they're ok with you opening it up.
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Not as an official part from Ultimaker, no.
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To see if the camera is working you can try going directly to the stream (you must be connected to the same network as your printer):
http://IP_OF_YOUR_PRINTER:8080/?action=stream
Usually this gets around any software issues causing you to not see the camera. So if the image is still black here it's likely that the camera is broken.
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These are not available as spare parts from Ultimaker I'm afraid. If you ask your local reseller nicely they may have a broken printcore lying around that they could steal that part from for you though.
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Voxelizer is mentioned here as a tool to convert Gcode into STL:
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Can you give us some more information about what you mean when it wont start without connecting a printer? Do you get some sort of error message?
You should be able to use Cura without having a connected printer without any problem.
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I'm not a network guy but I don't think I've ever seen anyone ask for a "COM"-number. That sounds more like old school serial cable talk than networking. Do they mean the MAC address? If so, here's information on how to find that:
As for other network requirements, this page should have all they need:
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012113719-Ultimaker-Platform-network-requirements
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I don't know the exact physics behind the noise, I've always assumed that the belts dry out and it's friction against the pulleys, but that's just a guess. But the squeaky noise is very common, it's been around since the UM2 launched and I've done quite a few belt replacements over the years.
The parts you need are these:
2x 225586
2x 225739
2x 1758 -
Honestly I would just swap them all if it is one/several of the belts. They are quite cheap and the way they are mounted means you have to take out at least a couple of rods and also the motor(s). At that point you might as well do it all. It'll probably take you 1-2 hours the first time you do it and you take your time.
Before you do it you'll need to print out the alignment sticks for squaring up the print head rods after the replacement. Reach out to your reseller, they should be able to get you a guide for the repair as well as STLs for the rods (or you could pay them to do the replacement for you).
Text to models?
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
You wouldn't. Cura doesn't have a function to edit a model that way.