johan

Hi, I see now, that I forgot to paste in the link in my post earlier on.... Here it is: http://airtripper.com/1338/airtripper-extruder-filament-force-sensor-introduction/ Johan

Have you seen this? Check out the link in the first post! Some nice research! :-)

Hi, Just tried to Connect the LCD from Gadget3d, and turned on the printer without recompiling Marlin. It lights up, and is showing what it is supposed to show! I can scroll thru the menues and the clickencoder does it's job. This panel also work With the RAMPS 1.4 on my RepRap. This is of course no guaranty tha the RepRapdiscount panel will work, but I am quite sure it will. Johan

Hi, If you open the Configuration.h of Marlin in Arduino, you will find a lot of different LCD panels, one of them the Reprapdiscount panel. I can try to test a LCD panel from Gadget3d (very similar to the one you have found) on my Ultimaker, when my print is finnished. :smile: Johan

Ultimachine.com

@jumpmobile: that stepper looks like a Nema 23..... If you live in Germany, try germanreprap.com

Allmost every web store selling parts for Repraps, are selling steppers with the D-shaped shaft....

Hi, I made a double extruder for my Reprap two years ago. It is a combination of the Makerbot MK6 direct drive extruder, and a hinged Wades. It uses two high torque steppers rotating in oposit diections. I made this solution after having missed stepps on a single stepper direct drive extruder.It's like a tanks! :smile: It's not grinding filament, but I have had occational blokings in the hotend (j-head 0.35mm). I actually beleve that it is the unmolten filament that blocks the hotend at high speeds (FR 250) https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55953222/Extruder%20closed.JPG https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55953222/Extruder%20open.JPG Johan

In the Reprap community many have changed from M8 to M5 on the z-axis. The M5 is not rigid enough to "over rule" the smoothrods. They also use flexible z-couplngs and add flex in the Z-axis motor mount.... On the BFB Touch they use arms to hold the moving z-platform, but the arms from the lead screws are not constrained in x-y on the platform to avoid z-wobble. Johan

The BfB Touch and Rapman printers have(had?) wormgear extruders. They have good grip on the filament, but I thik I have read that they are not good with retractions, and "eat" filament and leaves a lot of dust. Johan

gr5: Thightening the short belts did the trick! :-P Johan

Hi, Thought I had my shortbelts nice and tight, but.... I have covered the printer with a large plastic sheet, to create a heated champer, so I guess the wood have dried out and loosened the bolts for the steppers. I will run a new print tomorrow to se if the problem is solved, but I really think you nailed it! Thank you! Johan

Hi I have a problem with top layer not being totaly filled. I have redused the acceleration settings in Marlin to 1000 ( from 3000) and that helped a bit, but still not good. The filament is squized out to about 0.9mm, but there is stil a gap of about 0.4 mm between each tread. The perimeters and loops is perfect, so I dont think that I suffer from under extrution. It looks like the hotend moves to fare from the previous tread.... This is my settings: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55953222/Settings.JPG Johan

BfB touch, now 3d Systems Cube X, has/had a carbon fiber printbed upgrade.

@ Nick Foley: I have bought a full set of them, and they look good. I haven't replaced them yet, but it fits nicely on the Misumi smooth rods I have bought to do the direct drive upgrade.