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Italianmaxx I have tried to do a standard quality print yesterday by using PeggyB's settings. Everything worked perfectly. Let me know if you are still having some issues, maybe we can arrange a live chat one of these evenings as I'm Italian aswell

Thanks That was a brilliant explanation. I then guess I won't need the level converter as, the SDCard adapter I got, already had the resistors surface mounted. What's the role of the buzzer in the Ultipanel? Does it work as a notification for when's the print finished?

I noticed that you're in bare AVR from the buildmemarlin website If it was me I would've provided a .pde file with an Arduino sketch instead hahaah I'll go with a 20x4. Waiting for the components to be delivered and then I'll start going through the whole thing one at a time. Thing is...what's the level converter for in that build?

I agree, the thing is that I always liked to mess with electronic stuff (proud owner of 9 Arduinos ). Also I had purchased those components already before the Ultipanel came out so I want to do something with them at this point

I have made a couple of tests with Netfabb and I think I've found out what's going wrong in the standard profile. I just lacked the time to troubleshoot it down entirely. It has to do with the settings which are configured in there. Long story short: Netfabb tries to print the first layer too fast. If you have the time to look at this I would try to reduce the printing speed a wee bit. Also if you apply PeggyB's settings to the high quality settings you'll get better prints, especially for the vase profiles. I also know what you mean with the white paper tape, but I found the blue one to be stronger and more performing. One thing I did was to add some kapton tape where the hot end usually homes, so that the tape there never breaks.

Hi Daid, thanks for your reply. Sorry I meant a 20x4 display I'm a bit confused on how to wire the SD card reader as the connections appear to be quite different from what's written here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15081 and what's instead written here: http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03 ... extension/ Have you got any clue about this?

I have a couple of questions regarding the Ultipanel and SD Card addon. I want to take my own take in realizing this mod with a rotary clickable encoder, a 16x4 lines lcd and an arduino SD Card reader. What I'm going to use is the following stuff: 2x of these connectors http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330705567036? ... 500wt_1057 1x of these card readers http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260990355580? ... 1554wt_881 1x of these rotary encoders http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1pc-ROTARY-EN ... 868wt_1139 and a common 16x4 LCD. Now my question is: what is the high to low shift register used for in the original ultipanel design? As far as I understood the SD card reader goes straight to the EXP 2 connector while all the LCD and rotary encoder parts have to go on EXP 1. Am I missing something?

So interesting! Even tho the price is a bit a turn down considering the price of those parts on Ebay. I'm looking forward seeing a picture of it tho. That may make the whole difference between a purchased one and a self made one

Doesn't look like a variation in thickness to me. I think it was more something like the plastic not being extruded properly. I would double check the feeder screw if I were you and make sure it's clean.

It should be possible also with a 16x2 as it runs this way on a Sumpod as far as I've heard. What is the difference between the firmware in BuildMeMarlin and the one in Cura? Are they the same version? I'm so tempted to use BuildMeMarlin but I'm not 100% confident on which settings I have to choose :S

Hi PeggyB, I made a couple of tests and so far looks awesome Thanks for your contribute

Do you think it would be possible to run the rotary encoder with just a 16x2 generic LCD instead of the Ultipanel? I wonder also if there's any difference between the RepG26 Marlin firmware and the one on buildmemarlin

What quality settings are you printing with?

Hi Daid, I'm interested in going that way too but I haven't found a proper detailed guide with all the steps in the Wiki. Would you be able to share your experience?

Hi Robert, is it comb enabled by default or is it to be enabled manually? . @PeggyB have you got a screenshot of your settings?

If you want to attach a computer to it you may be interested in checking out the RaspberryPI

I have ordered one of those cheap ones on Ebay, I like the idea of having it accessible, so I will probably put it on top of the machine and use an extension cable to plug it on the board. My question at this point is: did you have to add a screen and a rotary encoder too in order to do a standalone print from the SD Card?

I'm impressed but I still can't figure out how you managed to get it without almost no jumps

The black one looks pretty impressive. No jumps?

Good job! I'm going to try this one out soon. How do you upload the files on the SDCard without removing it tho? It might be worth to check how much it is an sd card adapter for or use a microSD and solder the adapter on the board This one looks like another cheap alternative by the way: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-SD-Card-M ... 518wt_1396

Hi thereza, I used to have the leaking problem too, but it only happened when I was printing at high temperatures (around 250 degrees). If you print at 180 to 190 degrees (default standard temperature for pla ultra in the ultimaker material settings) you shouldn't have any leakings. I have noticed that the teflon tape melts too. So: yes it would solve the problem a bit...but it may be leaking out once melted if the bolt isn't tight enough. What I would do is to use this one ( I haven't done it but I would if I had your same problem): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290624636619? ... 1423.l2649 or any similar heath resistant glue. Make sure it resists to temperatures over 300 degrees tho, this one is good up to 400 so you should be fine. I don't know if there's a temperature setting for each type of plastic somewhere. The main difference is between ABS and PLA, but as said before, there are slight temperature settings to take in account considering the color you're using. I guess it's try and fail every time you switch color. Usually everything should be fine between 195 and 215 degrees.

Hi italianmaxx, the link to your pictures isn't working well on the forums but I've managed to retrieve it Good job! I did the following modifications to my Ultimaker: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10082 - belt tensioner (using them just on 2 belts) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10501 - this is an improved fan shroud http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864 - this one prevents the material from needing too much force to be extruded http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20930 - this one is a fix I developed for the previous mod At the moment I'm printing this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8903 And I will be installing this one during the next couple of weeks: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15897 -this one is much as of an optional, but I've found that the regular one works pretty well if kept clean I will soon develop my own "Ultimaker" feeder mechanism mod once I will have some spare time to project and design it To increase the printing speed I would have Netfabb to slice the piece as you do right now, then save the generated g-code and load it in ReplicatorG. Use the manual controls in ReplicatorG to home all the axes and pre-heat the machine, then load the g-code in it and start the print. Use the live tuning to go up to 250% speed. This way you will get an almost high quality print but in less time. When I want to do fast low quality prints I usually use ReplicatorG as slicer for the g-code, but the results aren't impressive. If you want to use Netfabb you can try increasing the temperature by 20-25 degrees in the standard pla in the extruder materials and change the raft speed to 40 from 8 (as you did for the other one, but this time we'll be using a higher temperature). Still select the outline before slicing the piece and see how it goes. In Netfabb I also modified the following in the machine setting, changing the g-code header from: M106 M109 to: M106 M109 G90 G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 G91 G1 Z35.0 F400 G92 E0 G1 E260 F1000 G1 E-20 F3000 G92 E0 G1 Z-1.0 F100 G1 Z-34.0 F400 G90 G1 Z0.4 G92 Z0.4 E0 This is to have a pre-extrusion before the print (stolen from ReplicatorG ), in order to clean the hot end properly. Check it out. I have heard a lot of things about Cura and I want to check it out, but ....ironically..I haven't managed getting it to work I believe there's something in it's g-code headers that my Ultimaker doesn't like Let me know how it goes:)

@ Italianmaxx :Thank you for your feedback, you made my day @ Thereza :Leave the header of the Gcode as it is by default in Netfabb, In your case thereza try again with PLA ULTRA in the materials but don't increase the temperature as I suggested to do and leave it the default one in netfabb. It will reduce a bit the blobs. Also make sure the Z axis is goes to 0 correctly. To do this go in Replicator G and open the control panel and move the Z axis by 0.1 mm up and down and make sure it's 0 when it touches the plane. Also make sure the bed is leveled properly and that it touches the plane uniformly in every corner. Always do the 0.1mm up and down thing as in some corner the plane might be higher and push too much towards the nozzle. Double check this and let me know. @ Italianmaxx : I'm glad my help was useful for you Post a couple of pictures of your print as you made me curious @ Both of you : Ultimaker also makes better prints when you print improvement parts. If you guys want I can suggest you a couple of modifications you can print in order to improve your prints. Also remember that each color of PLA extrudes at a different temperature so you might have to play with it...and clean the feeder screw now and then EDIT: it also happens to get some blobs when you're doing yoda's ears. This is because of the "jumps" the machine does between the head and the ears (you can see the jumps in red in the slicing done by netfabb). There's no big deal with them apart of cutting them after the print is done. If you still get too many, check the temperature again as said before

Which firmware are you using? Make sure you're using Marlin. I have Netfabb working and I'm totally in love with it, the only tweaks I did to it were to change the raft creation speed from 8 to 40 and I increased the temperature by 10 degrees. Now and then you have to check the feeder motor to make sure it's extruding correctly. Apart from this select the following: 1- make sure you do outline before you print in netfabb (don't use RAFT, shouldn't be needed) 2- select PLA Ultra in the extruder material 3- select 2-High Definition Pla (not ultra) - filled object in the slicing properties and make sure the spacing is set to 0mm 4- try with a test cube first and then move to something else more complicate, it's all part of a learning curve Try this way and post a pic of the result

Hi, I mostly like the clamp Owen designed because it keep the tube fixed between the top of the moving part and the hot end. I noticed that otherwise the tube tend to flex a week bit while the hot end moves during a print. I found that this reduces a lot of the stress which is put on the pla and I'm extruding nicely almost all the time. I'm now upgrading my feeder mechanism a bit too but that's another story