antiklesys

HI Matis, check bed levelling and distance between the nozzle and the printing plane. If the nozzle is not touching it, lines might become like that.

Hi Anon4321, that is pretty cool, but I suspect putting a motor on the print head would lead to other unpleasant side effects. But yeah, if we find the right lightweight sensor we're good to go I suppose I have an idea regarding laser levelling, but I'm not sure of the accuracy, I'll have to research a bit more on it

Perhaps I could hook to one of the printhead screws an industrial micro sensor which operates at 24v and glue on the printing platform some thin metal pieces. I'm living in another city than where my 3d printer is located, i'm going to run some tests as soon as i get there. I have seen several thread about adding some weight to the print bed. What if that weight is added in the form of servo motors which could be then used to create a self levelling printing bed?

I'm looking in regards of IR sensors and laser sensors. I believe an accuracy of 0.05 would be good to start with. In order to not mess with Marlin it could be hooked up to another Arduino or a Teensy. Any ideas on high precision sensors to use? Keeping it within a decent budget of course

Also, nothing prevents you to check the distance multiple times in a second and get the average out of the results

Yes, putting the sensor up to 2cm was my idea and then work around the 0.3 resolution and see if there's a way to hack around that. It's a pretty much small distance, but it makes a huge difference when you plan on printing at 0.06

I was asking as Cura is brilliant and I know the printer can do amazing 0.02 prints with Netfabb, I just wondered whether they were as amazing with Cura

jhertzberg, the level of play i had was way above "intentional". I don't have any band or backlash issues with my prints as of now (everything was gone with flexible z coupling, direct drive and spring belt tensioners for the long belts). I'm planning to move to 3 point magnetic bed levelling, but I also want to increase bed levelling accuracy, hence I'm thinking of adding an ultrasound distance sensor on the printhead and see if i can make it work for fine tuning. For X Y bars I'm upgrading the blocks but it would be nice to upgrade the bearings to better ones (even tho they are bloody expensive as they have to allow movement in two directions)

I was thinking of adding an ultrasound sensor HC-SR04 on the print head to perform a precise bed levelling. Good idea or pure crazyness?

What are the layer heights limits of Cura? I used to be able to print at 20micron with Netfabb, can Cura do that too or is the slicing limit set to 60 micron? If so, is there any project to reach 0.02 layer height in the nearly future? On the other hand instead what is the biggest layer height? 0.25 is low quality print, but can it be also 0.4?

I managed to take the play out of the Z nut by putting a spare piece of plywood covered in tape in the socket of the Z stage. The Z nut is now stuck as intended Any link for Oldham couplings on ebay EU? I saw they are going for roughly 20€ each

Looking at those pictures the bed springs you have seem twice as long as the ones I have. Did they change in lenght across different UM1 releases?

Hi Tommyph, I already went with the flexible Z coupling as I had a spare coupler after switching to direct drive. I have to say the quality has slightly increased after that. What are exactly the benefits of a 3 point leveling VS a 4 point system? Wouldn't the 3 point make it less stable?

What would you advise to be the best bed levelling and z stage improvement? With stock bed (no heated bed)

Hi, I wanted to ask what is the purpose of the springs under the UM bed? Shouldn't I need to remove the bed now and then, what would be the best solution to have it fixed in place and have to avoid any future bed levelling needs_ Thanks, Alex

Hi, Would anyone in Italy or Europe be able to print 4 of these for me? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:154859 One of my old XY blocks has suffered some damage during an erroneous attempt to remove the print head and can no longer be used to print correctly. Any help would be appreciated. Don't care about colour, as long as they work and are usable and solid (proper infill). Thank you, Alex P.S. I read they are mounted using 3 of 2x0.5in plastite screws. Anyone in Europe knows what would be the metric equivalent of these?

I would be interested in a set of 8 too as I'm switching to direct drive aswell

Any new batches of pulleys being sent out?

Ciao a tutti, mi sono trasferito a Milano, qualcuno in zona?

This looks like is going to break, I would have printed it in a different orientation

Does anyone know whether Marlin supports this feature or whether it could be added? http://basdebruijn.com/2014/05/machinekit-and-additive-manufacturing http://hackaday.com/2014/05/10/blobless-printing-with-velocity-extrusion

Is there any place where we can get the .stl file from? Shall we be filling those slots with lead fishing weights perhaps? That would make it heavier

I was wondering if anyone has yet tried to remove even the long belts by replacing the standard 8mm rods with M8 threaded bars and direct drive those. Wouldn't that help in increase the precision?

I have a spare motor if you're interested pm me.

Ciao, io ho Netfabb completo, se vuoi ti posso aiutare a generare del gcode?