antiklesys

Hi I have an Ultimaker 1, please PM me.

Hi I would be interested in ordering a set of pulleys too.

Wouldn't it be too messy to add the ballscrew and nuts while we can add 2 motors for direct drive to remove the long belts?

Would it be an option to double up the X and Y motors and throw away also the long belts? Does anyone thing this would be feasible? It would remove a LOT of problems those belts are causing.

Maybe you could put some rubber rings under the screws to dampen the noise and vibrations?

Also make sure you're using Marlin firmware

I was talking about 3d printing and the Ultimaker with a group of colleagues when another one approached and asked what I was talking about. So I said "Well I have a 3D printer and was talking about that" he looked at us with the face of someone who's smarter than the rest of the world and said "Well...it ain't that big of a deal..it's actually unhandy as you then have to wear 3D glasses to see what you've printed" and left. I have to admit it was a good laugh in the end. Anyone else had similar funny experiences when talking about their 3D printers?

Missing picture. You need to connect it this way: +5v --> thermistor ----L---> 4.7k resistor ---> gnd and you plug the L connector in the SIG. The thermistor will then be a tension partitioner and will vary it's resistance when the temperature changes. By reading the tension between the thermistor and the resistor (in point L) you will be able to relate it to what temperature is being read.

What does it mean when on the display appears "PARTIAL RELEASE" ?

Ciao, Italiano a Belfast

There's a project of a box going around with some electronic junk in it. Now I was thinking...what about a box of printed objects? Would anyone be interested in printing some stuff, put them in a box and send it to someone with an Ultimaker. The receiver should take some of the 3d printed items and add some more, then send it to the next person in an address list we could generate in this forum. What would you think about it? It would be a funny way to get Ultimakers in touch and share our prints

Would it be a good solution to put both the extruder pipes in the same aluminium block? That way it would be easier to make sure the nozzle are at the same level

Thanks for the tip. That one is ok, all the pieces I printed were done at 100% infill

Thanks Daid So I'll just throw in the standard Marlin and change these parameters and do a M500 to save everything. Why's 314 and 5? I did some math and accordingly to my results should be 346.3552 for the old one and 5.6 for the new one, but I think I'm missing something. Can anyone double check this out? Here's my calculations: 8 (diameter of the small screw) divided by 20 (diameter of the big screw), multiplied by 865.888 = 346.3552 and 8 (diameter of the small screw) divided by 20 (diameter of the big screw), multiplied by 14 = 5.6

So, correct me if I'm wrong: Old way: M92 E5 New way: G92 E14 and M92 E314?

Hi Daid, thanks for the reply, I'll try as soon as I'm home. Will this work with Cura too? What are the different values I can set in G92? Is there a comparison table of them and their different meaning / behaviour?

If I modify the dimension of the bolt of the feeder from 8 mm to 20 mm what has to be changed in the configuration of Marlin? I did change the steps ratio to 314 in buildmemarlin (I'm trying this mod here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15897 ) but it doesn't seem to go well...also with the new Marlin I'm forced to put in G92 E14, is there any other parameter I should put in instead?

Hi this is about Netfabb, you should go in the ReplicatorG section perhaps

Does anyone know if the encoder is just connected to the ground and then to the input pins of the board? No resistors in-between or anything else? EDIT: I self answered to this one: yes, it is

Awesome Kyle, let me know how it goes I had to manually cut a couple of mms of plastic at the edge of the roller. I will update the design later on today. I made a couple of prints with this mod in place and seems to be working perfectly Note that the printed part is designed to be slightly wider than the standard plastic one in order to prevent any friction between the bearing and the wood. Even if it's wider it's ok anyway as the standard plastic parts are 3mm while the gap between the wood allows parts up to 4mm to be fitted in This one is 3.6 - 3.7 mm

Hi all, I thought the normal feeder mechanism was causing a lot of friction when driving the filament, mostly because of the nature of the parts. I have re-designed one of it's pieces to include a 10x6x3 mm roller which can be bought on Ebay for £2. This improved in a great way the feeding of the filament. Here's my design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21674 Any feedback is welcome - Alex

Yes, here's the model I've used: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10416 The only change I did to it was to scale it down by 50% as it was a bit too big for a test print

I printed a diamond with the standard profile with just 1 contour shells instead of 2 and worked fine, but without disabling the downskin. I would try to check if it happens with these settings too.

I would change the fan duct, maybe something which looks like made of a thin layer of copper or brass would do good there. Make sure it's shiny

Wooo so now we can use ReplicatorG 034 with the Ultimaker?