LePaul
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Posts posted by LePaul
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Hi @SandervG ,
Thanks for your response.
I hope the changes make things easier to tune into the website and forums.
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So the only gain seems to be it is much flatter? That's too bad, it looked promising
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The only thing I found on the web about getting an Octoprint and an Ultimaker 2 printing was this link
http://daniepstein.com/daniepstein/octoprint-and-the-ultimaker-2/
He shows a start and end gcode
It's a post from 2015. Would those work?
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Okay, let me re-phrase my question...or perhaps, let me ask it this way...
The Cura release notes showed support for Octoprint and the only "directions" shown to make it work is to find Octoprint in the Manage Printers option and find the API key from Octoprint.
Those have been the only instructions provided so far.
If there are additional steps, as you are indicating, it would be IMMENSELY HELPFUL for many of us to know what those are.
I know Cura is a vastly changing product but I don't think it's too much to ask for there to be some documentation available so anyone can make use of these new features.
Thanks!
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Well the flatness appeals to me, I was thinking for use on the other large scale printers (FT-5 and CR-10) I have. I am satisfied with the glass that came with my UM2+
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I received the Neoceram glass I ordered on-line. Unfortunately they cut it wrong (which you see in one of the pictures) but fortunately it was in the width dimension which means it hangs over the bed on the sides a bit but the clips still work. The black Neoceram is 5/32" thick which is about .001" thinner than 4mm so it fits the clips perfectly. One thing the website doesn't say is that the back has a fine grid texture. I installed the glass and heated the bed to 100 degrees C. Here are the IR photos:
Where did you buy it online?
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I'm not sure what else to try.
If I sent a print to the OctoPrint option, once the temperatures are met, the bed immediately comes up and prints. The print head does not home, the print head does not prime, etc.
That's why I am wondering if I am missing a configuration with the plugin or on Octoprint itself
I am hoping @ahoeben can clarify this. Because once the USB cord is plugged in, you have no way to halt a bad print on the printer itself. It's all via Cura/Octoprint at that point
I do have the camera view working!
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This keeps happening to me on my iPhone 6 using Chrome. Perhaps others can tell me how it works for them...
On my iPhone, I go to Ultimaker.com and wait a long time because the animated printer takes forever to load. Then, one I click on the menu to sign in, I again experience a long pause trying to access a keyboard to input my email and password. After all of that, I attempt to view my dashboard (notifications) and I get a "Snap! Something went wrong." and a prompt to reload.
I've tried it on my cellular data and on wireless network. Both fail.
Can someone tell me how to improve my mobile experience here
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I bought a Raspberry Pi, installed the latest Octoprint and gave this a try
Task one, seeing the video feed...great!
Now, how does one properly configure Octoprint to the Ultimaker 2+? Do any settings need to be made within OctoPrint?
I tried the "Print with Octoprint" and immediately the nozzle went straight to the build plate and tried printing. However is was way off center and didn't even prime the nozzle.
This almost works! I just need a few steps to do so!
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Well they did include that one source and a telephone number
What's the dimensions for the UM2 plate? 4 mm thick, I know...
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Well I inquired and received this information, sharing if it helps others...
Thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately, we do not sell to the general public. I didn’t see a company name, but if you would be purchasing by a company I would be happy to get a quote for you. If not, please feel free to contact the dealer below for personal use ROBAX.
Woodman’s Parts Plus
800-522-8216
Best Regards,
Jennifer Hauser
Customer Service & Logistics Coordinator
SCHOTT North America, Inc.
ROBAX® Glass-Ceramics
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That's a great find, I'll drop them a message
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Why is this under "Official News"??
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Yes. You'll have much more control over the slicing parameters, model orientation. Plus you'll have layerview to check if the print will work. And to top it all of, OctoPrintPlugin comes with Cura now!
How does the plugin work?
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To respond to the original question....
Labern has answered a lot of your questions.
The UM2+ only has the one nozzle, unless you do the aftermarket modifications. If you like to tinker, you can make it work. If you prefer to simply unbox and print, then the UM3 would be the better choice for dual materials.
Having had the UM3 for 6 weeks, I can tell you I was really impressed with PVA support. Active Leveling was a real convenience, too. I don't think I would print in different colors very often but I do print complicated shapes a lot. I really miss having the UM3 as I am now back to the agony of removing, snipping and cutting off support from my prints.
(Dropping the print in a tank of water for 6-8 hours was much more fun!)
I made a
if you care to check that out
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We have designed and manufacture a door for both the Ultimaker 2+ and 3 printers. You can learn more about them on our website here: http://www.tecedu.com/um-doors/. We are an Authorized Ultimaker Reseller and Service Provider located in Concord, NH (USA).
Wow, I'm next door in Maine and need some doors
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You can still use Cura to slice to gcode and then upload it to OctoPi and print from there.
I think that's really the better option, come to think of it. Let Octo record/monitor and keep things simple.
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Take it or leave it, but I am a mechanical engineer and even if they add hex, I'll print triangles for my structural parts. Triangles are stronger.
I don't care if you're the head bartender at the local pub...I'd like to have that infill option
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On a side note, yet related to Cura 2.6.1....
I've been looking to buy a Pi and use OctoPi for remote printing. I see they still use 15.04 I'm sure this info is somewhere....but how would one get it to use the newest version of Cura? (If there's documentation on how this is done, please let me know!)
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I also would like honeycomb, as it is the strongest of infills.
Is it? I've yet so see anyone actually measure the difference. I think it's going to be quite a bit slower to print, so even though it could be strong, it won't be as strong compared to a print with a different infill in the same time.
I wondered the same, there's a few threads you can pull up on Google but I remember this article lent some support (see what I did there?) for it
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Do you still think about other infill variants?
I still lack the honeycomb pattern as it is available in S3D. This makes it much easier to print (no gaps, with the same print parameters) thus probably also more stable.
I also would like honeycomb, as it is the strongest of infills.
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For equipment...a Battery Backup (UPS). In the event the power blips, your print isn't trashed.
I like ColorFabb filaments for their consistent good quality.
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Should be up now! Everyone should also get update notifications in Cura as well.
Alright, thanks for fixing that.
Downloading now (button worked for me on Win10 & Chrome)
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I got an email stating 2.6 is out...and a notification....but when I go to the download page, 2.5 is prominently listed....what's up?
A better Bed Glass - Neoceram Glass
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I still think I will purchase some, since I know the larger beds warp when heated, so a better glass can't hurt!