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peggyb

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Posts posted by peggyb

  1. I loaded your .3mf and it looks fine to me, or did I miss something in your message?

    If you have trouble locating it on/under the bed, check the z-numbers in the Move section, there is also in the preferences something like 'automatically drop models to the build plate'

     

    It is also possible that the graphics card of your computer is the problem, indoor first picture it shows you are in 'compatibility mode'

     

    My screen looks different because I use Cura 4.6.1 and the plugin 'Sidebar GUI'

     

    Schermafbeelding 2020-05-23 om 15.33.59.png

    Schermafbeelding 2020-05-23 om 15.45.42.png

    • Like 1
  2. Found another answer of @fieldOfView

    If you can't see temp settings, your printer is likely using UltiGcode. When using UltiGcode, temperature settings are set on the printer, not in Cura. You can change the gcode flavor to Marlin in the Machine Settings for your printer, and gain full access of temperatures in Cura.

     

    The "Enable prime blob" setting has been disabled for all printers.

     

     

  3. SketchUp is good for visual drawings, but not so much for 3d printing, unless you know what to do.

    I think you spend a lot of time making this drawing, but I'm sorry to say that it is impossible to print in this state.

    You should take some time to learn the basics, here is a good start: https://i.materialise.com/blog/en/3d-printing-with-sketchup

    Use youtube to learn about SketchUp or use another program, like Onshape, Tinkercad, Blender, Freecad, OpenSCAD, they all have their strong and weak points, and it takes time to learn...https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=thor's+hammer+3d+drawing

    Start with an easier model, design this hammer without the graphics first, just the basic shape as a solid. It does not need to be hollow, the slicer will take care of that. The problem now is that your model is build up from too many separate parts that do not have a connection to each other.

  4. Hope it works for you, let us know..

     

    It is a complicated subject, I try to approach it rationally. To my knowledge, and I could be wrong of course, when you change the line width, less material comes out (less flow) and the wall is narrower (what you asked for).

    When you set the flow higher, you get more material and the wall swells, resulting in a wider wall than your line width.

    If you use less flow you end up to a point where there is not enough material resulting in under extrusion.

    Using horizontal expansion shifts the wall in or out using the regular settings.

     

    Every model is different and could benefit of the actions above, even different colors or materials act different.

    For final object do some tests, print a part, a slice of the model. You can position your model with a -z in the bed to test a critical part and abort when you have enough information to skip time.

  5. Did you measure your accuracy in x and y as most important or also z?

    For x and y you could play with 'horizontal expansion', using + or - values, then you can set your flow separately.

  6. you could try another solution with benefits:

    import a disc/cylinder from a cad program and scale it to your liking in size, with the same height (z) as the first layer.

    The place the items on critical places like corners, turn off brim and use skirt.

    I use this with materials that have a strong warping and don't want to peel off the brim a from complex shape.

    Schermafbeelding 2020-05-14 om 11.09.45.png

  7. look at the speed of the infill, it is much higher the the rest. The profiles have different speeds for inner/outer wall, infill, but I like to set everything at the same speed, like 45 in this case, or lower it when you still see the poor infill.

    What also could help is to adjust the infill % or mm (it uses one of them, the other value it greyed out) until the nozzle makes a nice fluid path, you could lower the amount to get more contact between the lines.

     

    • Like 1
  8. Like I said, it is easier to do this in Sketchup... but I will try...

    When you start, make sure you have the Object Browser visible (under View)

    Select your part7 and 'Edit' --> 'Separate Shells', this separates your thread from the cylinder.

    In the Object Browser you can show/hide elements now.

    Looking at cylinder it has 2 reversed faces.

    To reverse the faces: choose 'Select' , tick 'Allow Back Faces' and hit the 2 faces, in the popup screen. Edit - Flip Normals.

     

    Now hide the cylinder and the extra thread (shell2), and it is always good to make a duplicate (symbol next to the trashcan in the Object Browser) of a part if you are working on it, so you can always go back to the original. Hide the original (shell3).

     

    The next part involves a lot of steps because Meshmixer is not so much a building program and these steps are easier in Sketchup, like creating an outer cylinder without a top/bottom and connecting it horizontal to the faces of the thread. The same can be done in Meshmixer but with more steps. 

  9. if a part is thinner than your nozzle size, it won't print, the material coming out your nozzle is 0.4 wide.  This has nothing to do with your layer thickness.

    This area ends up razor sharpe, so at a specific point it won't print. 

    do you need this area? it is part of a hinge, if it is too thick your hinge won't work.

  10. Hi @davidmillertime 

    I use Meshmixer a lot for checking and cleaning, but it also takes a while to learn the details.

    You could fix this also in Sketchup, but like @gr5 said, other programs are better for 3d printing.

    A good indication for reversed vertices is to look at the color, inside and outside have different colors, in Meshmixer they are pink.

    The thread needed some extra vertices to make it solid.

     

    Schermafbeelding 2020-05-02 om 19.15.19.png

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