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peggyb

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Posts posted by peggyb

  1. ...and.... you can also make your own modified 'brim'. Place a normal cube or cylinder on the bed and adjust the size and height, make the height the same as the first layer and move them to the end of your tubing. They will act as 'Mickey Mouse ears' to hold your model to the glass, without the trouble of removing a complete brim, only remove the ears at the ends.

    (in the preferences disable 'keep models apart')

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  2. this could be a lot of things, test the everything from feeder to nozzle:

    Check if the little black wheel inside the feeder is rotating freely, and if the tension is right. When closed, try to pull at the filament if it slips. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/240-cleaning-the-feeder. Look at the marks on the filament, are they overall the same? Deep or shallow? Are there bite marks?

    Take the print head apart by starting with the Bowden clip and remove the Bowden tube. Heat the nozzle and push the filament through by hand. Also perform a 'cold pull'. Cool the nozzle down to 90 degrees with filament inserted, and with the print head in one corner, pull out the filament. Check what the end looks like: is it dirty, is it thicker than normal? You can do this a couple of times.

    Take the printhead further apart and look at the white teflon coupler. When it is brown, it should be replaced.

    Remove the nozzle and clean it, clean the heater block and put everything back together, tight (not over tight). Check the assembly manual for instructions https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/235-assembly

    Take a piece of filament and push it in from above the printhead and feel if there are any obstructions.

    Put the bowden tube back on, heat the nozzle and load some filament. Turn the feeder wheel and look at the extruded filament, is it a nice consistent flow?

    Start a print....

     

    • Like 1
  3. the easiest way to deal with this is to print the missing part by detecting where it failed, then sink the model in Cura beneath the bed and glue the parts together.

    Even if you could manage it to resume the print, it will be a visible seam, which also happens if you pause and resume a print.

  4. Normally after each print the material is retracted and can be removed manually or automatically cold. Your situation indicates there is something left in the nozzle that sticks, so try doing some cold and hot pulls to ensure everything is clean inside the nozzle.

    Are you using a special filament or the default/normal ones? Or changed filament types?

  5. what would help is when you load the material, feed it manual in the Bowden tube just 2 cm, and not 20 cm like you did.

    What happens is that the fast forward brings the tip of the filament too soon at the nozzle. Just put in the filament 2 cm, close the feeder, let the fast forward transport the filament to the printhead and the last bit is transported slower towards the nozzle.

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  6. ik heb geen Ender, maar kijk waar de rubber transport bandjes de bocht om gaan. In elke richting zitten ze: X is links-rechts, Y is voor-achter (dus het bed) Z is hoog-laag. Dus als je verschuiving voor-achter is dan kijk je aan de uiteinden van de rubber band (timing belt), daar zit aan beide kanten een pulley, met kleine inbus boutjes aan de motor-as of frame vast. Is er ook een forum voor Creality? Misschien is daar betere info te vinden.

    Oh ja, en als je de snelheid verhoogd, zou je ook de temperatuur iets kunnen verhogen, zeker voor 0.2 laagdikte. Je gaat nl. sneller veel plastic verplaatsen dat op tijd verwarmd moet worden.

     

    pulley.jpg

  7. dit is hoogst waarschijnlijk een mechanisch iets, geen software ding. Is het altijd in dezelfde richting? Controleer of alles goed vast zit en speciaal of de pullies goed vast zitten, dat zijn die ronde tand ringen tussen de stangen en de riemen (wat voor printer heb je?) 

  8. another way to check the z calibration on the fly is:

    when printing the first layer, if you see irregularities, gently push underneath the bed, a little upwards. If the flow gets better, adjust the screws underneath the bed, looking top down, clockwise is bed higher.

    Pushing too hard will result in very thin extrusion, there is a sweet spot between too thin, too thick. Just push the bed a bit while doing the first layer and look what happens, and adjust the screws accordingly. It also depends on what kind of model you print; a small surface might need to be closer then a big  surface, the calibration card is a general indication.

  9. no, the picture he shows is a converted jpg, not an stl, mostly used for lithophanes.

    Load in a jpg, define the height, and print. Hold it against a strong light and be amazed...

    But the default settings are awkward.

     

    I can read and speak German, but writing is difficult, sorry.

     

  10. Your info is right: the height (10) plus the basis (1) is total 11.

     

    Do you want to make a lithophane from a picture? I don't understand the default settings for this, because they don't work..

    For a good lithophane I would advise: a white background works best, set the base to 0.3 and the height to 1.2. Darker is higher.

    In the settings make the first layer 0.2 and the layer height 0.1. This way the thinnest parts (white) will be 2 layers, 0.2 and 0.1)

     

    Accenture-Ventures.jpg

    2018-11-16 15.20.30.jpg

  11. These parts are too thin to print, for a circle, printed with a 0.4 nozzle, the diameter becomes 0.8. And they will not come out nice and strong if they would print this thin. Maybe add something solid to the model when printed, like a piece of filament, stick (wood, metal).

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