peggyb
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3D Prints
Posts posted by peggyb
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click the little white box behind the "everywhere" support setting, this will take you to the expert settings. Look at what angle is noted there, I guess the default is 60. Change it to zero and look if something changed in the layers view.
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those little heatsinks come loose very quickly, when I build my UMO they were already loose in the box before building...
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I know what this could be!
check if your fan underneath on the electronics is working.
Had this myself lately, and found that a wire had broken from the electronics fan. With another printer the whole fan died…
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maybe you could check your speed settings in the advanced tab, and setting all these to zero. When everything is printed at the same speed the result is more uniform, especially the infill.
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yes, in the advanced settings you can define the first layer height.
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can't you just use the wire from your old fan? I replaced my fan once and de-soldered the wires from the old fan and put them on my new fan.
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like dim3nsioneer said: can you move the printhead (switched off) around by hand? Does it move lightly?
Clean the X and Y rods with a little light oil and remove as much as possible.
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I think that starting the elevated rotation will be the hardest trick, helping it to get lifted and balanced by hand...
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They don't mention the how the anti-gravitation works, but I guess it is something similar like this: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/SmallDeco-Semi-elliptical-Sliver-Maglev-Magnetic-Levitation-floating-Auto-Rotating-holder-Stand-Display-Showcase/909465_323008367
An electro magnetic field holds to pieces floating, but it needs a counterpart inside the skull. And this part will need to be nicely centered to keep the skull straight..
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It's too bad that we're not allowed to tell you about the projects people are working on here at R&D, but y'all are going to love it, I'm sure!
OMG, you are working at R&D and you are a hobbyist???
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good to hear. I asked because it might be a good idea to test out things before releasing (hint, hint)
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That is what I asked: no Github stuff...
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will there be a 'public' version to test before July 1st? A Mac-version? no github stuff?
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Clicking the "last" button in the overview list leads to an empty page still…
(edit: after my post it did take me to the last post)
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the calibration of the rods is on page 55 of the manual, using the calibration sticks to get everything aligned and square.
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are the thin rods exactly square? compared to the thicker rods?
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for an Ultimaker Original it is easy to adjust for wood fill printing. Just buy an extra nozzle tip and drill an 0.8 mm hole in it.
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please, please, please
do something with "unread posts"
"Latest" doesn't filter away everything I read already
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@rigs: nice result, how did you get the colors, blue and green?
I got some nice results with the old S39 tin flux with acid. Just let it dry overnight and rinse of the residue and let it dry. (the picture was before the rinse, the green becomes lighter)
Did you use ammoniac for the blue?
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These discs are doing a good job on the polishing of the metal filaments from Colorfabb: Habras discs. http://www.keystoneindustries.com/en/rotary/hatho_habras_discs.html
Different grids embedded in a polyamide brush, yellow-80, red-220, blue-400 grid. Perfect for irregular surface and hard to reach parts. There is almost no heat generated, but keep it moving...
Finish with a soft cloth with Brasso or polishing paste.
These examples, bonze and brass, were 5 minutes of work
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#3 - cover the top of the support with blue tape, press it tight on to the surface. Works also very well for new build support to get a nice bottom. The hard part is to keep the support steady, tape or glue it to the build plate...
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is there a nice strand of plastic coming out if you turn the extruder wheel by hand before starting a print?
if not: than you have a blockage somewhere. You can try to poke in the nozzle with a thin strand of metal wire (from a metal brush). If that doesn't help the problem could be higher up.
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leuk dingetje en binnen een kwartier werkend...
ik heb alleen de end gcode veranderd in x0, y0 want het beugeltje kwam toch een beetje klem te zitten.
Ook de layerheight veranderd naar 0.15, dan zijn het totaal 4 lagen ipv 6.
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yes! stand number 110.
Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
can you check if the little side fans are working? Lately I had two printers (UMO) printing the same objects at the same time and one of them showed problems like yours. The difference was that on the bad one the fan stopped working (UMO only has one fan).