mariuszem

Hi, do you know how many steps should I set for UMO? I use parts from UM2 feeder.

@lars86 I do use GT2. I've printed all in 0.1 layer. My first test was a "tug test". Failed - belt moved (on reassembled printer:/). But clamp with heat shrink tubing on it, worked as it should. I'll print new clamp tommorow.

@selmo, mayby some "how to"? Can you tell how to integrate neopixel? Can it change color for nozzle temperature?

Almost perfect. I use now @lars86 block, bo these do not hold belt properly IMHO. So I can hear scratching on one axis now.

Here you can calclulate: http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide#E_steps I just do write if anyone more seek for this. UM math is: (200*16)*(49/8)/(7,5*3,14159)=831,85 - for v3 knurled bolt.

@ataraxis, I like idea to revert everything also. Do you know, that for replacing motor wires U need: unplug connector, take out wires (using niddle), put these in, and plug motor connector back, only. No soldering. no cutting, no drills. Only repluging:) BTW, I know Marlin well. I just like the idea to have original FW, updated with Cura:)

But Z is not in common use with high speed. XY is probably most common change. I got to tell you @drayson, that E is quite silent. Only retraction is noticable. Believe me, fan is louder than retraction. @ataraxis, with ulticontroller you can change steps for Z and XY (with gt2 upgrade), so no mess with firmware. Once I plug my printer to new PC/Mac I upload new firmware with Cura wizard. It is why I do prefer to change motor wires. Steps are ulti-controlable;)

You can. But you got to attach it properly.

But in general you have to change your settings while switching to SSS. As default, UM has X-axis inverted, so you have to make it straight. Y, Z and E are straight - you need to invert these. Only if you changed stepper. If you change XY steppers, you got to change X and Y settings only. My advise: change motor wires, not firmware. You can use your current settings, no new firmware. Only hardware is changing. Motor wires are in pairs (on bottom of the picture): blue and red (1st coil), green and black (2nd coil). Switch pairs. You should get green, black. blue and red. No firmware change. All set up. Ready to print:) See colors here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/File:Circuit_complete.jpg

I did misunderstand DD. DD upgrade is not, replacing bowden, but short belts. IS there any instruction, made like this one? Probably I don't need that. My UMO prints in 80 or 100mm/s looks almost perfect.

All, but direct drive. I print to fast for DD. Waiting for my heated bed:)

I bought them from watterott. Palced them (without heatsink) for XY. I also did change motor cables - I want it to be only hardware upgrade. Vref set to 1,25 (from factor). My UMO is now really quiet. Only fan and retraction makes some noise. I'm after 2h test print. These are awesome. Thanks @ataraxis. Now I'm only waiting for GT2 set for next upgrade;)

Please, can you confirm, if it's all I need: - print ultralight-xy-blocks by lars86 - buy 4x 303T belt (606mm) - buy 2x 101T belt (202mm) - buy 10x 8mm pulleys - buy 2x 5mm pulleys - change the X and Y steps/mm to 80 - be happy to print with greater quality:)

Hi, where to buy SSS? I can't find it on ebay. Is that it -> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-MKS-TMC2100-stepper-motor-driver-SilentStepStick/32479443113.html ?

Love you guys. I did lubrication, reassembly y and x belts, to find out that the problem is short belt. Found with your help. I can now get back to printing, thanks!

My idea, to not use Clamp on extruder side. Perfectly fit. No move.

I am not. First thing I did print, were belt tensioners. Than I figured out, that fan duct is lame, and printed one from thingdiverse. I am not pro and it was my first idea. So I think all pro reprap users did the same.

In case of price, I'll let some watercut in my city. But I'll consider engraving with some blue-ray laser or sth, that price level.

What temperature do you set?

Derlin parts come as one, but you got to make them two, and assembly like instruction says. Then, I think you may have same problem I did. My first print here: Solution is to set in gcode "M92 E850", that made more PLA usage for printing (I have Marlin FW).

Of course, you'll need glasses. I think more about pluging laser to extruder case, then to control it same like my prints. Thought, someone tryed it.

Hey, anybody think of doing lasercuts with ultimaker? Anybody tried? Any links? I need some luser cut work, and ultimaker should be exact machine for that.

I updated firmware, and facing now other problems, so that one is solved:)

Hi, after full assembly, when I connect UM to my Mac, to ReplicatorG 0.35, I got error message: "extruder switched off. maxtemp triggered !". Should I try to put RED temp sensor wire to left, and YELLOW to right (step 4 - extruder, 35)? In control panel I got stepper-based pinch extruder: 24C