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  1. Zoev89 it's quite easy to figure out the power supply requirements, the heated bed is just a resistor and so Ohm's law tells you everything you need. The lowest resistance point along the temperature curve will be the maximum power required, so divide your voltage by that and you have the amps needed. If the resistance drops as the temperature goes up then the power draw will go down, it's no problem. Unfortunately I'm not able to adjust my power supply below 21V, so I'll have to source another one.
  2. Yes, that's the one. It is 1.8 ohm per the spec so I guess it's not defective. But with a 24V supply this will draw 24/1.8 = 13.33A When I drive this from a 24V 10A supply, the voltage measured across the power supply terminals drops to around 16.5V. So the heated bed is drawing around 16.5/1.8 = 9.2A and the power supply is current limited. It's not good to run a power supply like this. To actually drive this safely at 24V it seems I will need a 15A minimum supply.
  3. Can anyone with the ebay kit check the resistance of the bed (across pins 1 & 4 on the connector)? Mine is reading 1.7-1.8 ohms, I don't think it's possible to drive this from my 24V 10A supply as it will pull almost 14A. Indeed the voltage is dropping to about 16.5V under load and the supply got too hot to touch within 1 minute. I'm debating if I should contact the seller for a return or change to a 20A supply instead.
  4. Open source Just like the Original the Ultimaker 2 will remain open source. We dare to share our knowledge because we believe we can achieve even more when working together. Sounds great... where's the source? I looked over the website, wiki, and github but didn't find anything.
  5. If the clicking is coming from the back-right pulley you're pointing out in the video, try loosening the grub screw for it and moving the axis, to see if the clicking goes away? Did you already check these things? - Short belt tension - Rods and belts are in the same plane along Z axis... this thing will demonstrate : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8781 - Belts aren't binding on or rubbing the shoulder of the pulleys, and that the pulleys themselves aren't rubbing against the rod end bearings / frame. - The rod end bearings or rod ends themselves are not rubbing against the covers on
  6. I believe you just specify the T parameter for the M104/M109 command, T0 being extruder nr1 and T1 being extruder nr2... M104 S200 T0 ; set 1st extruder temp to 200, don't wait for preheat M109 S200 T1 ; set 2nd extruder temp to 200 deg, wait wait for preheating But you may need to send tool change first with M6, or change gcode to address extruder via A/B axis. I am not sure which one Ultimaker / Marlin supports. M6 T1 ; change to 2nd extruder G1 E10 ; extrude 10mm from 2nd extruder M6 T0 ; change to 1st extruder G1 E10 ; extrude 10mm from 1st extruder - or - G1 A10 ; extrude 10mm f
  7. I was quoted $175-200 (material included) at some local shops (west coast USA) for cutting out the UM frame from 6mm & 4mm plywood. I got a test cut and the tabbed joints fit fine. I didn't ask how much the plywood cost. But I know that plain acrylic sheet 1/4" thick is around $10-15 per sq foot, not sure how much you need for an UM offhand. I didn't find any place locally stocking metric-sized acrylic though. I'm not certain if 1/4" (6.35mm) is close enough to 6mm for everything to work perfectly... I think it would need some tweaking. And for the 4mm parts, locally it's only 3/16" (4.76
  8. You can start with the RepRap gcode reference ( http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code ), Ultimaker has the Marlin firmware and it supports most commands if the feature is present. The wiki does list for some commands if they are supported by Marlin or not, but others you just consider if the hardware support is there. For example the heated bed / heated chamber commands won't work on a stock Ultimaker as those features aren't present. Daid has a Marlin builder you can use to custom-build a firmware, you can add the 2nd extruder there in the configuration options IIRC. ( http://daid.eu/~daid/marl
  9. Agreed, I had the same problem with some early prints. Also I would check that the pulley on the motor is mounted correctly such that it's not rubbing on the motor or that the belt is rubbing on the frame.
  10. You will need to send the commands to the printer in order to change it. Editing the .gcode for a model will only change it when printing that model. There is a box in printrun on the lower right you can use to send individual commands to the printer. You will need to use M92 E to set the new E steps per mm and then send G92 to zero out the extrusion length. For example, if you have E steps of 865.888 (default), you extrude 50mm and measure 46mm. Then you want to set your new E steps to 941.183 and retest. First send the M92 to set the new E steps value, then G92 to zero out the extruded leng
  11. I did something dumb with 3 of my stepper drivers (plugged them in backwards... don't ask!) and pretty sure I fried them. The rest of the electronics seem fine, tested all 4 axis very carefully with the remaining stepper driver. So now I need replacements. I don't see them order-able on the UM store, but anyways I think I can get them a lot cheaper / less shipping here in the US. But the Pololu A4988 are sold out in a lot of places. I see there are some alternatives though and I'm wondering if any would be a better choice? Pololu DRV8825 ( http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2132 ) may be
  12. What version of the electronics do you have?
  13. I also have some wood chipping in this area, and just had to clear a nozzle clog due to splinters getting carried through the bowden tube to the hot end. I am considering a guard made from shim stock to apply in this area, I haven't quite come up with a good solution to hold it in place just yet though. I also got the same wear groove in the delrin piece after maybe 1 kg of filament used, but now UM has upgraded their idler design to a Bertho-inspired design, so this shouldn't be a problem anymore.
  14. You can indeed use Cura (or Printrun) to send GCode to non-Ultimaker printers. You may need to edit the configuration file if you have some unusual COM port settings.
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