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  1. Thanks, I'll give it a go. I might also remove that "safety" lock preventing you extruding unless the nozzle is up to temp; my extruder uses smooth pinch-wheels which cannot grind the filament, so that's another (much smaller) annoyance to be fixed!
  2. Why not simply buy one? What level of design are you looking for - sub-millimetre drawings of all the parts, including the complex splined-gear which grips the filament? Details of what wire thickness is used to make the spring? (too weak won't feed, too strong will damage the filament). If so you won't find anyone giving you that - there's a lot of work even in these small items! Why should anyone simply dish that out for free? You might find ideas in thingiverse, but if you want the design, it's up to you to reverse-engineer it, if that's what you want. Or simply design your
  3. Ever since I've had the excellent Ultimaker Controller, I've found it easy to use - except that bl**dy timeout of 15 seconds is driving me spare. I'm perfectly capable of navigating up & down the menus, and can always power of/on if it got stuck. When you're carefully levelling the bed, moving the motors around, tha last thing you need is being pushed back up to the top level, then needing 2 or 3 button-presses & 2 knob-twiddles to get back to where you were 16 seconds ago. Can someone tell me where to get the source code for this - I'll very gladly rebuild it in I assume t
  4. Construction of the first Extruder Carriage is complete, I've made the heat-block down-pipe, brackets, heater block, and a couple of semicircular grippers which will hold the bowden tube firmly to the top of the downpipe in such a way that I can unscrew it easily from thare and not have to pull it out from the extruder-end of the tube. I've made the 4 sets of bearing-blocks & clamps which hold the helical plastic nuts & the 8mm linear bearings. So here are some pics! Front view showing the Bowden-tube gripper pieces. The two semicircular grippers fit insid
  5. Lars, any rotation about a vertical axis, as seen from above, should be prevented by the X and Y "flat" rulers. Any rotation as seen from front of UMO about Y axis should be prevented by "vertical" ruler going in X direction. Similarly rotation about X axis prevented by the other vertical ruler.
  6. I have a UMO not UM2, but didn't find anything I much liked either. So I've 3D printed my own in ABS, in 2 bits. It uses the original single fan mounted in the original position. Aim is to get uniform air flow from all sides, trying to miss the tip of the nozzle but hit the hot plastic just below it!!! The flattened torus is hollow, and couldn't have internal supports, so the model is sliced horizontally through the mid-plane of the torus. Then the sheared-hollow-cone bit is printed the other way up with full supports, and the tiny "cap" which is the bottom half of the torus is als
  7. Am not familiar with Marlin code, but as far as I can see, the AD597A uses a K-type thermocouple, and gives a reading of 1V at 100C, 2V at 200C etc up to 4V at 400C should be no problem, even up to 1200C providing the input supply voltage is at least 12V plus a bit. Farnell.com has a datasheet on the chip. This extract says Since the output can only swing to within 2 V of the positive supply, the usable measurement temperature range will be restricted when positive supplies less than 15 V for the AD597... . So if you give the chip a 5V supply, ti can only output at most a 3V signal co
  8. We can do a very approximate ballpark capacitance figure as follows: C = K x E0 x A / D (e.g. see http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Plate-Capacitor-Calculator.phtml so put in an area of 100 mm2, a distance of 1 mm, K=1 for air is accurate enough, and yo get a capacitance of 0.885 pF. This is pretty d*m small. Supposing you print 2x20x20x20 cubes, I'll take it that's 1x20x20x20 = 8000 cubes for one plate of the cap, so the maximum surface area you can get is 8000 x 6 cm**2 for each "plate". 1mm is my assumed distance between one plate & the nearest bit of the opposite polarity
  9. I'm building up a small collection of these, hoping some project will come up that needs them. But maybe I should just take them down to my local recycling centre when I take other stuff there, and put them in the energy recovery bin?
  10. Ok, some of you may have seen my other appends in this thread https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/1114-throw-away-your-short-belts-direct-drive/?page=9&_fromLogin=1 , but it's time I had my own thread & stopped hijacking that one! I want the best quality I can get from my UMO, by which I mean round things really should be round, and there should be no ringing/overshoot at sharp corners etc. This requires 3 things; zero backlash in the X & Y drives, the highest possible rigidity, and the lowest friction. Backlash means you get flat-spots in round objects where the
  11. Yes the filament will rotate between the driving wheels & melt zone, and you've got a good point there. I would hope that ABS would survive this, as usually it will be molten at hot end when moving like this, so with luck the colder & solid section will rotate freely inside the PTFE section, and the hot gooey rest of it is fine. Some day I want to try out metallic filament which can be fired in a furnace (& yes I've made my own mini-furnace, 1"x1"x2" high! some years back), and I think that stuff might be brittle, so I really like your idea of a rotating hot end! It hadn't occurred
  12. Bevel gears etc are a complete no-no, I'm sorry to say. The last thing I want is any more backlash, = rattle, noise & unpredictable inaccuracies. Mounting 2 step motors on gimbals in one corner means all you're doing is using a long lever to turn them a small angle, about a pivot that runs through the centre of gravity of the motors+gearbox. This is actually a tiny force that's required, far less than the force required to accelerate & decelerate the "ideally" placed MakerBot Replicator motors on top of the nozzle carriage, and probably less than the force required to accelerate the ma
  13. Hopefully this is my final layout for the 4-Ruler-Guide replacement fo 6mm rods project. Guides are now single-sided = slimmer & lighter, and by juggling the widths & exactly where in the middle I put the anti-backlash tensioner wheels, I've managed to overlap things nicely while still keeping decent clearances. It's 6mm less high than the prev design shown above, much neater layout leaving front-right corner completely clear, and the X/Y motion-control rulers are level with top of nozzle & top of heater block, so I'm really happy so far. Various views:
  14. Yes indeed, I remember someone doing that! But my extruder mechanism is built on a substantial piece of aluminium plate, it's rather large & heavy as it uses dual geared clamp wheels. Besides, I'm thinking about eliminating the bowden tube using that neat ?ZeroG? idea where the extruder motor(s) are placed in a gimbal at one corner, with splined shaft reaching across top of UMO, and all you have then is a clamp-wheel-gripper thing on rotary mount directly above nozzle shaft. I'm going to have a strong 10mm dia threaded shaft, easily enough to take something added to the top of it. I've be
  15. Having slept on it (I do all my best work in my sleep! ) the above layout needs to be improved, and simplified. I tried to minimise overall height & keep it compact at all costs. Tesult is a spaghetti mess of internal support beams, and it's difficult to route the heater & thermocouple wires to where they won't touch some sliding item. Latest thoughts: 1) It's desirable to get the plane of the 2 X-Y horizontal-motion Guides as close as possible to the height of the tip of the nozzle; this will minimise twisting torques trying to get nozzle out of vertical. So the above lay
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