maurice

I see now that the older version of Cura I use does the same thing. I also understand why it happens this way, but it is not always desirable...

I recently started using Cura 5.3.0 on an M2 Mac. I noticed some new (unwanted) behavior concerning top/bottom-layers. If I print a thin section in the bottom layer, the new top-layer of that section is printed separately with walls, although the pattern is the same as in the surrounding layer: The next layer shows the border of the thin section: I've not noticed this behavior before, but maybe I haven't printed thin sections in the bottom part before. However, I don't want this, because it does not look good, and it creates many extra print-movements. Can I turn this behavior off?

There shouldn't be any travel movement, that is the point! Spiralize is useless in this case, because the thickness of my wall is 3 times the nozzle size. But I'm not really looking for a solution, I'm reporting an error in Cura 2.3.1.

If you print a massive model with no infill and no top layer, you should get a vase-like object with only inner and outer layers. However, in some cases Cura finds it necessary to print some extra blobs here and there, ruining your print, like in the example in the pictures. The wall was too complicated probably. If you have simple walls, this works just fine.

Cura 2.3.1 gives us the option to create our own material-profiles by duplicating, renaming and changing, but they disappear from the list of materials, and when you change to a different material this newly made material-profile is lost. The profiles option does work, although it does not import the profiles made in Cura 2.1.3. (MacOS)

The link got mangled, the correct link is: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ My (UM PLA) prints bond very good to clean glass at 60 degrees, but if I run into trouble I'll keep your 'salt' method in mind. I would like to lower the temp even further (for shorter cooling down times), I still have to look into that. 60 degrees seems enough, strange that Cura chooses 70 by default. But I've only tried UM PLA so far.

I'm building the UMO+. On this page: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20907-installation-z-stage under the heading 'Calibrating' it says: However, that would mean turning the Z-motor by moving the platform! I don't want to do that because I'm afraid to break something. Is this really the way to do it, or am I missing something?

I need to replace this part of the feeder of the original Ultimaker, does anyone know where I can get the .stl file so I can print a new one? It is not in the open source listing for the original Ultimaker, because this part has been replaced by another.

To put the filament on the floor doesn't look wise to me. Because the filament doesn't 'unroll', more and more torque is created inside the wire (on long prints), and that can influence the feeding. Mind you, I don't say that is the cause of your problem, but it could be. I've built a separate roll-holder for the larger (3 kg) rolls I use.

De laatste was op 4 november, dat is pas 4 weken geleden. Hopelijk is er nog wel een dit jaar.

@Augusto What are you trying to print? I've got this flexible PLA: https://shop.germanreprap.com/en/product?info=276 I haven't printed much with it though.

Do not print below 220 degrees C, or the results will be disappointing.

I've got the same problem. It is especially noticable with the last version of Cura, with previous versions this problem occurred less. Which PLA do you use? Another cause could be that the first perimeter on the the bed does not stick enough.

Hmmm, I thought that if you used a heated bed, no glue was necessary. I tried rolling the glue from the glue-stick with a hard roller (a piece of PVC pipe), it rolls out nicely but the finish is still not smooth and shiny. And I got my print very easily from the glass, so warping may be a problem again. Ik must try to print the first layer at 240 degrees again, that seemed to help with the bonding to the glass. And what about the Kapton tape? I thought that needed to be on the glass plate if you used a heated bed, but apparently it is not necessary.

The finish is very difficult to photograph, but with the glue-stick, it is quite rough (only suitable for invisible surfaces). I'm still looking for a method to distribute the glue more evenly on the glass. I've printed a regular pentagon with sides of about 8 cm, and the warping is about half a mm at the endpoints. How do you apply the diluted glue? How long does it take to dry? I'm still considering using it because of the finish, although with me it was smooth and dull, not shiny.

With the blue tape, the problem is not adhesion of the PLA to the blue tape, but the blue tape itself comes loose from the bed. I can't get 15 cm wide tape here which would help a lot (maybe). I use PLA exclusively. I've got no idea what glue is in the glue-stick, but is dissolves very easily in water, and does not smell or burn when it comes in contact with the hot PLA. I've made a support piece for the glass, that will hold the glass in place, and push down the bed so the head is at the correct height for the glass bed (no need to re-level the bed). https://www.youmagine.com/designs/glass-support

A few days ago I didn't even know that you could print on (cold) glass. I've now tried it a few times and I like what I see. My main motivation is to get rid of warping. I've got no heated bed, and do not intent to consider one until UM offers it as an upgrade; so I am looking into other options. My roomtemperature is now low (around 14 degrees C). If you print on glass alone, the object hardly sticks, and will come loose. Diluted wood-glue works, but I found it a bit messy, and hard to apply an even layer; and it takes forever to dry. The result is very smooth, but dull (not shiny). Warping is minimal however. A glue-stick is easier, you don't have to mix a solution, it is dry instantly. Warping is nearly absent (when there is enough glue), but the finish is not smooth, you can see where the glue is 'imprinted' in the object. And you have to wash the glue away after the print, which is easily done with tap-water. With most of my objects, the bottom of the print is also the bottom of my object, so looks are not that important, but it is a pity that they don't look as smooth as with wood-glue, or no glue at all. I will continue with my experiments, and I will print mostly on glass in the future I think, because of the minimal warping (much less than with the blue tape, which is lifted of the bed by the warping-force).

Volgens Pakhuis de Zwijger duurt de avond van 17.30 tot 20.00 uur. http://www.dezwijger.nl/83216/nl/sign-of-time-2-3d-printing

Komt er ook weer een Ulti-evening bij Protospace?

Your explanation became clear when I had built the complete assembly, thanks. There is also a good movie showing how it is done here:

I've figured this out myself, the wires of the thermocouple need to be connected the other way around, the red one must be connected to the left terminal on top of the printhead, not the right.

I've assembled the Ultimaker, and connected it to the Mac. Strangely, the Mac won't boot if the USB cable is connected to the Ultimaker, even is the Ultimaker is switched off. The Mac runs OSX 10.6.8 and Cura 12.11 (12.12 crashes under 10.6). I've used the wizard, updated the firmware (that even works when the power to the Ultimaker is off, is the Arduino powered by USB?). In the next step I test the hardware, the communications work, and the heater also (though maybe not always, but sometimes I feel the printhead heating up). But Cura can't see the temperature rise, it stops with an error. I've checked the thermocouple, it is connected correctly, its wires are not broken (I measure a resistance of about 3 Ohm when not connected to the block). I've exchanged the wires, using the wires for the second thermocouple, all no go.

I still find this explanation confusing, do you have a picture of how it looks? I've tried many different things, but even if I push the assembly by hand all the way in with the bolt with the spring tightened up, the filament still isn't moving when I turn the large gear.