foehnsturm
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Everything posted by foehnsturm
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Yeah, it's a simple 1:4 (10:40 teeth) gear. If there was a combined part for the drive wheel and the 40 teeth gear, the whole box would be just 20 mm thick. Right now it's 30 mm -
Yes, it's the E3D Lite. As I can see so far, the inliner locking mechanism with a tiny collet is at least questionable when the end of the tube happens to be flush with the collect. If you push against the tube, everything is ok. If you accidentally push against the collet, the inliner gets loose. The magnetic coupling plate is still missing.
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I'm trying to change my designing habits. 5 shell loops so adjacent structures touch each other. Perimeter lines rock, surface and infill is for wimps
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Huh, didn't add up the bills so far. I was looking for quality not for cheap parts, so it's quite some money. Roughly: motion system parts (MISUMI) 250 €, smoothieboard and display 200 €, x/y/z steppers 50 €, laser cut metal parts 150 € + belts, bearings, PSU, ... I'll use the magnetic mount in a modified way which allows the slide-on-wedge move for coupling and decoupling from both sides. Printheads will be a story for its own. 1,75 mm E3D Lite to start with, and a modified direct drive.
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It's prepared for a second set of rails. However I start with the standard setup. The rails are quite oversized (16mm). Time will tell.
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Well, I've to say I'm very happy with the smoothieboard. Connecting the silicone heater took 5 mins today. Just had to decide which of the 4 thermistor inputs and 6 MOSFETs to use, edited 3 lines in the config file, issued a reboot, that's all. The heater runs on mains voltage via a SSR. 25° - 100°C takes 55 sec.
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At least it almost looks like a printer now. x/y/z are working. 600W silicone heater is ready for mounting as well. Now waiting for the steppers for the printheads.
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Not a bad idea ... Much simpler, I'm looking for some damping properties and it doesn't have to last forever: KAPAmount.
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Three heads? Wow!
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I had kind of the same thoughts when I ordered the E3DLite for the new project ... All metal and PLA, especially with bowden, I'm still not convinced. This is a subject you know way more than me: Why did no one try to apply a teflon coating to the metal parts like the famous non-stick pans?
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Another shot in the dark: The shaft of the extruder stepper is flattened I think. If the set screw is just a little loose it will still feed as the screw catches where the flat part ends. But there will be some backlash before reverse movement starts because the screw has to catch on the opposite end.
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Hi guys, I'm about to decide if I should draw up an idea I recently had for an UM2 add-on. Not a tool changer but somewhat related. So I'd like to ask anyone working on an UM2 version just to post a few lines about his setup (which tool changer design, which printheads, what kind of feeder , ...) You could also point me to an existing write up like @ultiarjan's (I think there is one, this thread is becoming too large ...)
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So there is at least one person who can help me out if questions go over my head
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Well it should do 260°C. But for sure the PTFE will degrade faster.
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The crossflow fan approach
foehnsturm replied to foehnsturm's topic in Third party products & modifications
AFAIK no one tried this yet. But it would be tempting particularly for actively cooled hotends to get rid of the tiny fans. -
Perhaps www.aliexpress.com or www.reprapdiscount.com. Might be the same vendor. They're good for 250 °C. The PTFE inliner won't last forever.
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Well, the Darlington is good for a few (at least more than one) amps. I know, because I managed to fry it when I was testing the polisher tool head. Stall current of a motor is multitude of its rated current ;(
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I sorted out the main issue. The part of the belt tensioner which isn't bolted to the print head was vibrating.
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I think you're right. There is a tiny play which at least causes a "mechanically" unpleasant sound when the printhead changes direction. I'm not sure if there would be visible inaccuracies in the prints but I don*t want to hear that. I ordered a pre-tensioned second rail and will figure out how to modify the setup.
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:-) Just found the typo ... those units ... Well, 1000 m/s would be close to Mach 3 and I should have heard a supersonic bang ;-)
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Very true. TBH, I didn't do any calculations, to some extent it's a shot in the dark. Just went for the long blocks for less play. An axis with two parallel rails should always be fine. With the one rail axis, I'll have to see. And for the other options: I tried to choose the cheapest ...
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that's looking really cool!! Are you happy with the rails? Can you share the partnumbers you used? It's too early to recommend or advise against the rails. So far I'm happy. Misumi has an extensive web shop / order system. A starting point http://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302586530/ for the rails. I chose the 12 mm width type.
